Brake Fluid Change

ironworker40

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I have a caliper locking up, so before I change it I am changing the brake fluid first. I don't want to get old fluid in the new calipers. I use a fluid sample vacuum pump that I got for free. Harbor Freight or any auto parts store have vacuum pumps with adapters for brake bleeding that work the same way. I didn't take a picture of the pump attached to the rear wheel cylinders, but you just slip the correct size hose onto the bleeder fitting as shown in the picture of the front caliper with the vacuum pump attached. I din't remove the tires but if you want to you can. I have been using the vacuum pump for all my brake work for about 15 years now. I first used it on Harley Davidson's because they have low volume master cylinders and are very hard to bleed when installing new components. Then I used it on a truck and have been doing it since. It uses less brake fluid, saves time, aggravation, makes less of a mess, and you don't have to listen to your kid or spouse telling you their leg hurts. If your brake pedal is low adjust your rear brakes first.

1st spray the 4 bleeders at the wheels and the one on the rear antilock brake valve with some kind of penetrating oil (I like to do this a couple or days in advanced and I repeat it a couple of times) The anti lock valve is in the first picture. It is on the inside left frame rail adjacent to the oil filter

2nd suck as much brake fluid as you can out of master cylinder and replace with new fluid. Leave cap off of master cylinder.

3rd go to right rear wheel first. This is farthest from the master cylinder on our trucks. Whenever bleeding brakes you should always start at the furthest point first. I always use a bleeder wrench because they work better around the the backing plates. Crack open bleeder to make sure it is free.

4th install vacuum pump on bleeder. Pump it a few times to create a vacuum, then crack open bleeder 1/2 turn or so. You will see the old brake fluid moving into the container. When the container is full close bleeder and empty container into a recycling container. This fluid is garbage. Never reuse old fluid. Please dispose of properly. Now check master cylinder and refill as required. Repeat this until you see good color change in the brake fluid. This wheel will take 6 oz or more to get clean fluid out

5th Move to left rear wheel and repeat steps 3 and 4. You will get clean fluid faster from here on.

6th Move to right front wheel and repeat steps 3 and 4.

7th Move to left front wheel and repeat steps 3 and 4.

Now make sure master cylinder is full, replace cap and check brake pedal. If you had a good pedal before you should have the same pedal now. You can see in the picture that I had a good pedal already, that was taken before I bled system the old fashion way. I always bleed the system the old way just to make sure all air is out. You will only have to pump and crack each bleeder a couple of times. When bleeding start at the right rear wheel, then left rear wheel, then the antilock brake valve,then right front, and lastly left front.
As you can see my brake fluid was black, definitely time to change it.
 

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KIDROG

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Nice write up. I never used a vacuum pump. I always do it old school. I looked at them for about $30 you can get a decent looking one with adapters. This is on my to buy tool list. This should go to the tech section in my opinion.
 

DaytonaBill

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I did mine using pressurized bleeding with blue dot 4 fluid... It makes for easier one man bleeding and you can tell when the fresh fluid comes through...

It's really easy, just fill bottle with fluid of choice, attach to top of master cylinder reservoir, pump it up to 30 psi, start at back passenger wheel (just like referenced above), crack zerk fitting, let it flow until the color changes to the new fluid and close zerk fitting and Viola!

On the next flush, I'm going to use dot 4 gold colored, to be able to see when the fresh fluid comes through...

But, that's just me... :sly
 

1995voyagerES

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Whats that red stuff on the one fitting on your ABS valve? Is this like they came from factory or is this some sort of sealer? I ask because mine on my F250 has this stuff on it too.
 

ironworker40

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I did not see different colored brake fluids at the autozone I was in. I did use the valvoline dot 3-4 fluid. I had old dot 3 on the shelf but I decided not to use it. Some pics of the pressure bleeder you used would be nice like I said the pump I got was free so that's why I used it. As far as the red sealant I have no idea. Must be some factor stuff if you have it too.
 
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DaytonaBill

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***???

Well, that was interesting...

I last flushed my brakes back between 2009 and 2010 with ATE Super Blue Dot 4 Racing brake fluid and I really don't know where I got it from, other than the internet...

Anyway, a controversy has risen since then... It seems that for any brake fluid to meet DOT specs, Dot 3 & 4 must be either amber or clear and Dot 5 is purple... (DON'T use Dot 5, it is different and incompatible with our brake systems, it is silicone based...)

:yell:
As of August 15, 2013, the Ate Super Blue is no longer available. (Federal Law issue with the fluid color).
cookoo :cry:

Right now on E-bay there are more than ten available at $34.95...:eek:

It is the only blue brake fluid I knew of but it would be nice if there was some kind of polyglysol based dye we could use to give brake fluid some color... :flipa :sly

A can looked like this and mine didn't have a sticker advising that it is for off road use only...

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Anyway, I used this model from Motive products and it really works great... ;Sweet

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If anyone wants one of these, find out if you have either a two tab or three tab brake reservoir cap and then go to http://motiveproducts.com
 

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