Blending WMO suggestions??

m67tang

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My goal right now is to run 50/50. When I first started I had about 25% ATF in my mix and all was good. Now my mix is 50% motor oil/ 50% diesel #2, and Howe's diesel treat, no more ATF supply. So now I am getting more smoke and less power, and higher EGT's. What went wrong? Is it the lack of ATF?
I have not been using RUG at all. Would adding RUG solve my smoke problem and lower EGT's? should I add 25% kerosene in my mix to make it better?

I do not have the wmo supply to run W85 for my car and 2 trucks and tractor & still fuel my waste oil heater, so help me make a good 50/50 blend.
 

Brad S.

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I haven't burned ATF in that large of percentage, could be the lack of ATF for your lack of power.
Someone else could comment better on that.
Kerro might be better all around mix with wmo. I stopped using RUG because I've got a electric diesel fuel pump, don't want to jinx anything.
Keep track of your a.m. temps & starting ease or hard starting, that should be a good indicator of mix percentages.
 

m67tang

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I haven't burned ATF in that large of percentage, could be the lack of ATF for your lack of power.
Someone else could comment better on that.
Kerro might be better all around mix with wmo. I stopped using RUG because I've got a electric diesel fuel pump, don't want to jinx anything.
Keep track of your a.m. temps & starting ease or hard starting, that should be a good indicator of mix percentages.

I was not having an issue when I had the ATF in the mix. Now, without the ATF, I am running consistantly 75f degrees higher EGT's both under load and sitting at idle.
 

bbjordan

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You need to advance your timing. WMO has a higher energy density, but burns more slowly. The reason why you have hight EGTs is because the fuel is still burning when the exhaust valve opens and continues to burn in the exhaust manifold. That is the reason for the smoke too: unburned carbon. That is also the reason you are down on power. You should be able to make more power with the WMO mixture than with straight #2.
 

m67tang

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You need to advance your timing. WMO has a higher energy density, but burns more slowly. The reason why you have hight EGTs is because the fuel is still burning when the exhaust valve opens and continues to burn in the exhaust manifold. That is the reason for the smoke too: unburned carbon. That is also the reason you are down on power. You should be able to make more power with the WMO mixture than with straight #2.

Okay... but I am not sure this is gonna be my end mixture that I will stick with, except I plan it to be 50/50, just not sure about what thinner I need to use. what if I ad RUG, then move the timing again? Is there a mix that would be better suited to the standard timing setting? I dont want to be moving timing on all my stuff every time I change the recipe a little...why was this not an issue when I had 25% ATF in the mix?

Thanks for the input it will help me figure out where I am heading
 

m67tang

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You need to advance your timing. WMO has a higher energy density, but burns more slowly. The reason why you have hight EGTs is because the fuel is still burning when the exhaust valve opens and continues to burn in the exhaust manifold. That is the reason for the smoke too: unburned carbon. That is also the reason you are down on power. You should be able to make more power with the WMO mixture than with straight #2.

About how much timing advance is needed? About how many little timing indicator lines does it equal? And just to show what I dont know- which way is advancing the IP?
 

wmoguy

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I was not having an issue when I had the ATF in the mix. Now, without the ATF, I am running consistantly 75f degrees higher EGT's both under load and sitting at idle.

I guess my question would be is that 75 degrees enough to matter where you have to design a mix again? A little increase at idle is a gold thing. Do you run down the road over 1100 degrees right now?
 

m67tang

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Not running that hot going down the road, just not running as good without the ATF.
I think what I need to do is make W85 and then double total fuel volume with #2 to create a mix like: 50% W85 / 50% diesel. I spoke to a man today over the phone who explained to me that my problem is having a higher flash point now that the ATF is gone, so ad the 10-15% RUG to lower the flash point.
 

bbjordan

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About how much timing advance is needed? About how many little timing indicator lines does it equal? And just to show what I dont know- which way is advancing the IP?

Start by advancing it 2 degrees. That is moving the pump .030" about the thickness of a dime. But first make a mark on the housing and pump so you can get back to where you are now if you have to. To advance the injection pump, while standing at the front of the vehicle looking at the engine, turn the pump counter clockwise (top of pump toward passenger side).

If you notice an improvement, you may want to advance it another 2 degrees. If there is no difference, try backing it off 1 degree. If it is worse, go back to where it was originally, or maybe even try retard it 2 degrees.

It is best to use a meter to set the timing. Do NOT move the pump while the engine is running. Ensure all 3 bolts are snug before you start the engine. The lower bolt on the passenger side can be a bear to get at. A shorter open end wrench works for me. Be careful you don't accidentally disconnect the temp switch that hides behind the thermostat housing. (It has has two electrical prongs).

Its not a really difficult job. It takes me about 5 minutes now. It takes longer to get my Ferret adapter and timing light out and hooked up!

Good luck and share your results. :)
 

bbjordan

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One more thing, to make it easier to turn the pump, there is a kind of square tab at the front of the injection pump that you can put a 3/4" wrench on.
 

m67tang

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I think I found My Happy Fuel Mix! ;Sweet

I just hope it don't change too fast as it gets colder.

RECIPE:10 gallons WMO, 10 gallons #2 diesel & 2 gallons RUG.

Runs like a champ, starts great, no smoke, smell is a lot better too. Probly the RUG that made the difference. next I might increase to 12 gal WMO for a true 50/50 mix.
I put it in my 300d for the first time today and it performed well too.
Now I am thinking about adding a coolant heated filter to make better year round performance without having to blend per the local weather. Any body here have a heated fuel filter they would like to recommend??
 

m67tang

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Now that the weather is getting cooler at night, my 300d is not as happy to run my home- brew (50% wmo/ 50% #2 + 10% RUG), its okay after warm up. Till then its not happy. My truck has not been affected like this. What to Do?

Should I try kerosene in place of #2?
 

Blind Driver2

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I was running 75/25. It was starting to run rough at 45*. Runs much better after I added 3 gallons of diesel to the 8 gallons in the tank.
 

wmoguy

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How long have you been running WMO blends in your MB Diesel? I've been thinking about getting one and seeing how it does on WMO blends
 

m67tang

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How long have you been running WMO blends in your MB Diesel? I've been thinking about getting one and seeing how it does on WMO blends

I have had this car about 4 years, but I just started using WMO about a month ago. Guess I would not be the best person to ask.
My current trouble with the WMO is quite strange- the car starts great! But it feels like the turbo will not spool on WMO fuel. I believe I have the flash point adjusted okay, its just something else? but what? viscosity?
 

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