Darrin Tosh
IDI Hound
Looks like NMB2 got banned from PSN,..
BIG DYNO DAYS #'s
- Thread starter riotwarrior
- Start date
The thing is, both him and the people he was arguing with were all acting like absolute morons. I applaud him for his build and going against the grain, but he should have walked away from the online ******* match. I think everybody on PSN lost about 100 IQ points today after reading those threads.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Lets stay on topic....NMB2 built the kind of engine I've always wanted to see someone here build. It's really a shame that it all went to pot over at PSN, but I hope he'll fix the engine and keep driving it. I will say this freeze plug thing scares the living you know what out of me. I don't know what I'd do if I lost an engine due to a reason like that. He's inspired me to want to build an engine when I can gather the right parts and have enough cash to do it right. I know Gary would say the freeze plugs must be installed with Ford's tool and you must use the steel plugs...where can appropriate plugs and the tool to install them be sourced? Why can't we use brass plugs and is there any evidence other than the ones that were incorrectly installed in icanfixall's truck and the also incorrectly installed brass plug in NMB2's truck that the brass or copper ones cant get the job done? I'm running around with a copper expansion plug where the block heater used to live of course it was installed by someone I trust and has been fine for a year and I'm lucky if I'm even making stock #s let alone anything beyond that!
racer30
Full Access Member
I Feel the dyno day results are a good spread of performance from a group of trucks from stock to more than mild mods, the cam comparison of the typ4 and J2 was nice with a good improvement from a tune up shown on racins rig. Now my brain thinks in crankshaft HP 
So I used a drive train loss of .3 to show crank HP and Torq. I was impressed with the numbers and It helps me in my build. For this I say " Good Job guys " 
and Thank you for all the work you put in to make it happen. 
As for the bad luck NMB2 Had,
, That sucks.. 
I am sure He will get His rig back together and have his day on the dyno soon enuff.
So I used a drive train loss of .3 to show crank HP and Torq. I was impressed with the numbers and It helps me in my build. For this I say " Good Job guys " and Thank you for all the work you put in to make it happen. As for the bad luck NMB2 Had,, That sucks.. I am sure He will get His rig back together and have his day on the dyno soon enuff.
the block heater is a bored hole not stepped.
and the plugs need to be stainless for the others.
My advice dont ever remove them, they dont wear out and it is easy to get the block clean withm in.
and the plugs need to be stainless for the others.
My advice dont ever remove them, they dont wear out and it is easy to get the block clean withm in.
Fordsandguns
Fords Rule
If you were doing a performance build anyway, why not just have the freeze plug holes machined to accept screw in or regular plugs?
Would it be prohibitively expensive to have it done?
Would it be prohibitively expensive to have it done?
88 Ford
Full Access Member
Yep he put stainless steel ones in and X2 on what fordsandguns said.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The reason for using stainless steel plugs is they have a cut built into the edge that bites into the step in the cast iron block. They are a harder material than the brass after market plugs. Ford sells them in a bag of 7. Thats enough for one engine. As for the cup type plug someone has in the block heater location... Thats fine. That location accepts a cup type plug easily and it works fine.. So now you can relax a bit.. I understand how you were feeling about that brass plug but it just fine. Now about machining the block for screw in plugs... Yes.. I have discussed this several times on this forum. It can be done using Boss 429 screw in plugs but you need to know something about machining a cast iron block. Just lifting it up on a mill is going to be tuff. Then useing a 1 1/4 inch pipe thread tool to cut the threads is a big job. Also knowing how deep to cut the threads so you get the proper interferance thread contact is tuff too. Make the threads too deep and the threads never will seal in the block. Then you have a junk block... Leaving in the factory stainless steel plugs is about the best idea going... I'm wishing now I had done that.. It sure would have saved me some trouble...
mabc926
Mojo
He was banned from PSN for saying n****r........
Nothing to do with owning an IDI.....
Nothing to do with owning an IDI.....
Last edited:
6 Nebraska IDIs
Registered User
- Joined
- May 27, 2007
- Posts
- 4,247
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Oh that was dumb. I retract my previous statement then.
that's not why he got banned here either based on what i saw anyway lol.
he keeps getting himself banned because he fails to comply with forum rules,that have nothing to do with his truck as far i can tell.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Thanks for the info Icanfixall and Typ4. That was me who has the freeze plug where the block heater should be. I assumed it was probably ok since I've had it installed for over a year with n issues, and the guy that did it I trust. I tend to agree with you guys about just leaving the freeze plugs from the factory in. I suppose this is something I should tell the machinist if I get a block bored or sleeved? That I do not want him to remove the factory freeze plugs?
Yep.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
If your boring or sleeving a block make sure they mask off the coolant ports on the deck or they will get filled with cast iron shaving. Then its really tuff to get them out if the freeze plugs are still in the block...
