Betsy the Worktruck

Scotty4

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LG/Y Wire is always hot and should have power on it if Fuse 7 is good. If Fuse 7 is good but doesn't have power then, depending on the options in your truck, it either comes from one of two fusible links. For the BK/Pk wire, it comes from the switched side of your headlight switch but is fed from the same feed as the LG/Y.
I would look at fuse 7 and the others, if they are good but no power then I'd be wiggling and checking all the other fusible links.
Thanks. That was my next step this evening. Have to do some trim in the hallway and office, then I am free to roam. I will probably get another maxi switch as that made it really easy for troubleshooting.

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Selahdoor

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Ok, got mine taken apart, and pics taken.

I am going to make this several posts. Most with probably two pics apiece.

One, the original pic. And the other, an edited pic with descriptors.


Here is a pic of the light with the lens removed. I'm sorry it's dark. It was cloudy, and my camera is not the best. (It does clear up for some of the pics. LOL)

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And the same pic with the three screws indicated.

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Ok, note, the upper right screw is the ground screw.

The other two screws are hots.

The top of the two hot screws goes to the green wire.

The bottom of the hots goes to the blue wire.

As you know the 'hot' screws do go through the connectors on the ends of those wires. More on that later.
 

Selahdoor

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Now here is the roof area, with the hots, with the light removed.

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Green on top, blue on bottom. As I described.

Yours, however, seem to be hanging loose. Mine are anchored to the metal. They will swivel, but are nevertheless anchored.

When you drive the screw through, because of the way these connectors are made, the screw should make contact with the metal of the connector, but not with the metal of the roof.

Plastic is between the metal of the screw, and the metal of the roof. Pretty much like the square plastic license plate nuts I talked about earlier. Only the metal for the electrical connection is also embedded inside the plastic.

Most curious way I have ever seen electrical connections made. I can only guess they did it that way for reasons of making assembly easier at the factory.

I will suggest a way for you to re-make these connections, later.
 

Scotty4

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Now here is the roof area, with the hots, with the light removed.

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Green on top, blue on bottom. As I described.

Yours, however, seem to be hanging loose. Mine are anchored to the metal. They will swivel, but are nevertheless anchored.

When you drive the screw through, because of the way these connectors are made, the screw should make contact with the metal of the connector, but not with the metal of the roof.

Plastic is between the metal of the screw, and the metal of the roof. Pretty much like the square plastic license plate nuts I talked about earlier. Only the metal for the electrical connection is also embedded inside the plastic.

Most curious way I have ever seen electrical connections made. I can only guess they did it that way for reasons of making assembly easier at the factory.

I will suggest a way for you to re-make these connections, later.
I removed them and you can too. They hook into rectangular slots, a bit of a pain to remove. If the ground screw is in fact the ground screw, then by me grounding the light. Is its shorting the system as I installed this screw last. I did notice there are another two slots on the bar in front of this one which is probably for a single cab or to relocate at the factory or maybe they had all the support bars punch the same for time.

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Selahdoor

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Next up...

The back of the light itself.

There is a plastic piece on the back of this that falls off easily, with the screws all removed.

This is with the plastic piece in place...

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This is without.

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That is not a screw head you see on the lower left. That is an X cut into that rusty metal strip.

The purpose of this strip is obviously to insulate those two hot metal strips from the body of the truck. (Why the bottom left of it doesn't cover that entire area, I don't know.)

If you are missing that piece, that may explain all your problems. You are indeed grounding the hot, to the body. But maybe making only enough contact to dim the lights, and not blow the fuse. Still a bad situation.
 

chillman88

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@Selahdoor his were attached fyi. They were removed after this picture for what it's worth.

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EDIT: Beat me to it lol
 

Selahdoor

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As you can see, the metal strips for the the hot connections, as well as the screws, are extremely rusty on mine. I think I am lucky they are even working.

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Selahdoor

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Do you still have that plastic triangular looking thing on the back of the body of the light?
 

Selahdoor

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I removed them and you can too. They hook into rectangular slots, a bit of a pain to remove. If the ground screw is in fact the ground screw, then by me grounding the light. Is its shorting the system as I installed this screw last. I did notice there are another two slots on the bar in front of this one which is probably for a single cab or to relocate at the factory or maybe they had all the support bars punch the same for time.

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I didn't want to ever try to remove mine.

They are plastic and they are old. I'd be taking too much of a chance with damaging them and causing a short.
 

Selahdoor

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And by the way, one of those hots should be hot all the time.

And the other only hot when the door is open, or when you turn on the dome light with the headlight switch.

On mine, green would be hot all the time. (This is so you can turn the map lights on at any time. Not only when the door is open, or you used the headlight switch to turn on the dome light.)

Blue is switched.

(Now I've said that, I better go out and test to be sure I am correct. LOL)


And yeah, I really need to clean this all up and grease it before putting it back.
 

Selahdoor

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Another question.

Can you screw the screws into the electrical connectors without a problem? (I mean with the wires just hanging there like that.)

Do they fall out easily?

With them in there, examine everything closely to make sure that the screw is still obviously insulated from any metal contact other than the electrical connector itself where it is supposed to be.
 

Selahdoor

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Ok, I tested. I was right. Green always hot. Blue switched.
 

Selahdoor

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Sadly no. Was not up there

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Ok.

Were I you, I would leave those two wires hanging, and do all the rest of my testing with the dash, etc.
 

Scotty4

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Another question.

Can you screw the screws into the electrical connectors without a problem? (I mean with the wires just hanging there like that.)

Do they fall out easily?

With them in there, examine everything closely to make sure that the screw is still obviously insulated from any metal contact other than the electrical connector itself where it is supposed to be.
I'll take a look. I may have to put some tape on the sides or something. As I said, when I installed the ground screw it came on then shorted. The blk/pk and then blk/blue are the switched as that one also goes to the cargo light.

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