Batteries keep dying

[wabashofutah]

Having problems with the 89 350 again :l but not giving up on it yet. I noticed the starting on it kept getting progressively weaker and weaker due to low batteries. Finally it got to the point where I would have to leave it on a trickle charger overnight to be guranteed a start in the morning. Finally I broke down and went to Oreilly's and bought 2 new 850cca batteries (I live in Utah where it almost never drops below 10 degrees F in the dead of winter) they lasted maybe one day and then the same thing started happening again. I would have the batteries fully charged in the morning and disconnect the charger, run to work for 8 hours, and then come back and they would be so dead the "Wait to start on" could barely flicker on. Did I get 2 crap batteries? seems very unlikely, as they were $160 a piece I've disconnected the stereo, triple checked to make sure no external lights or cabin lights are on, there is literally nothing to be drawing power especially enough to drain those huge batteries from a full charge to dead just from sitting 8 hours. Suggestions? I'm about ready to go claim my warranty but don't want to look like an idiot when they both test fine. There is just nothing I can think of that would be drawing power.

On a side note-someone I was talking to at work the other day noticed it parked out front (before the problems started) and told me about how he used to run straight used motor oil (filtered) in his IDI back in the day. That sounded a bit far fetched to me... but I did get my hopes up seeing as I have unlimited access to that stuff and if I can drive around for free the week before payday that would be a huge help was he just talking **** or could I actually run used 10W40 as fuel?

 

[Wyreth]

First, put a meter on your battery to measure your drain. Then disconnect your alternator. If the diodes have shorted in it, it will drain your batteries pretty quick. Your meter will tell you if there is a change. If there isn't a change, go to the fuse panel, and start pulling fuses. That will help narrow down where your drain is.

Betting it's the alternator tho.

Next, there is the whole "alternative fuel" section here, with a TON of information on other sources of fuel. That said, you're not going to be able to just pour strait waste oil in and burn it without modification. Now a light mix of oil and diesel sure, (75% diesel, 25% oil. Alot of people here go as high as 50%/50%, but that is with a little bit of modification) but you're going to want to start on one tank that has pure diesel in it, then run the last 5-10 min before shutdown on that tank as well. Keep in mind, NO MATTER HOW GOOD YOU FILTER IT, WMO slowly destroys your IP and injectors. However, the savings on fuel more than offset that. Just keep in mind you're going to go through IP's and injectors much much faster, so save accordingly.

 

[chris142]

Is the charging system charging the batts?

 

[whiteboyslo]

Check the voltage at the battery with the truck running. Should be at or near 14 volts. 12 or less means you're not getting any juice back from the alternator, so either the alternator itself is bad or the wiring is.

FWIW, the parts store can test your system free of charge in about 5 minutes, but of course the truck has to be driveable and startable to get the truck there.

Mike

 

[thx997303]

Plenty people are running WMO at concentrations of around 80% WMO to 20% gasoline without issues, or modifications to their fuel system. Read up on it, plenty of information available.

How long have you lived in Utah? It frequently gets below 10 in the winter in my experience.

 

[argve]

you have something in the truck that is "stuck on". quickest way to find it is to use a clamp on style DC Amp meter and start tracing down which wire(s) are pulling current with the key in your pocket. I know years ago on the original E (had E4OD trans) it was the TECA Power Relay. The TECA Pwr Relay supplies switched power to the E4OD trans computer it was amazing how quickly it would drain the batteries. you can do it with a normal inline style meter but you have to unhook each wire and insert the meter in the circuit. I had a good idea where to start looking because I would unhook both batteries and then touch the ground cable to the terminal on the main battery and could hear something click in the transmission faintly. So I started looking at the wiring around the drivers side under hood relays. But using a amp meter is the quickest way to find it.

 

[icanfixall]

As posted. Its probably a bad diode in the alternater. What that means is when the alternater is running the diode bridge is closed and pushing power to the electrical system. When the alternater is shut down that diode bridge must open to stop the flow of electricity from the battery traveling back to the alternater. It goes to ground when that happens. It will drain batteryes fast too. As for running straight motor oil for fuel.. Yes but it must be filter and preped correctly. One member "claimed" he could change oil in the engine and pour it straight into the fuel tanks without filtering. Maybe yes.. Maybe no.. I have not tried it so I'm wondering. Now no matter how well you filter the used motor oil the soot and small metal particles will not filter out. Thats what ruins the injection pumps. Then your rebuild charge is higher on the pumps. Can you run wmo yes you can. If it worth it.. Only you can tell yourself yes or no. These idi engines can and will run on used vegi oil like what mc donalds or donut shops get rid of. Personally speaking I think used auto trans fluid filtered is a better fuel than wmo. Even used hydraulic oil is even better than that.

 

[noddaz]

Interesting... The batteries in my truck are almost dead after a few days... Alternator? Hmm.

 

[TronDD]

Testing alt diodes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgikeXt91vM

I had a battery drain problem, turned out the glow plug power wires melted the engine connector internally and the glow plug wires (which are always hot) were powering other things on the motor. I found out when it powered the fuel shut off solenoid so the truck wouldn't shut off when I turned the key off.

Worth a check of the connector anyway since them melting is a common occurrence.

Tim.

 

[noddaz]

Thanks...
Scott

 

[wabashofutah]

Hey guys thanks for all the replies. I bought a new alternator this morning and got it installed and the batteries are still holding a good charge! Unfortunately it's not working though. The battery drain light remains on all the time and when you rev the motor up the volt meter does nothing, the lights don't get brighter, non of that. It doesn't seem to be charging, almost as if they gave me a defective alternator. What should I look at next? The difference with the alternator I bought was that the plugin for the wires is on the 3 o'clock side instead of the 9 o'clock side. However even with it rotated the pulley is still being spun the same way so that shouldn't matter. It was the only alternator in stock that would fit. Can I unplug it and use a multi-meter with the engine running and touch the two prongs coming out the alternator where the plug goes to test it for voltage? Is there a voltage regulator or something on these old IDI's to check? Does the starter solenoid have anything to do with the system? All the electronics are working fine it's almost as if the alternator isn't even hooked up. On a side-note I recently installed a new GP controller. It was charging with the old alternator but the batteries were draining. Now the battery draining problem is gone but no power is getting to the system. What to check? You guys rock and I would have given up on this project forever ago. Thank You for the continued support.

 

[TronDD]

The voltage regulator is a tin box on the passenger side fender.

You did hook up the power wire to the alt, right?

Tim.

 

[wabashofutah]

Is it a tin box just resting on top of the passenger side fender? And yes I believe so. There was one wire that I secured to the alt with a nut, and then the plug-in with the 2 wires. Same connections as the old one just in a different spot on the alt.

 

[sassyrel]

That said, you're not going to be able to just pour strait waste oil in and burn it without modification. .[/QUOTE]

hmmmmmmm. been doing it,,since a rally in Michigan years ago...........ask mel,argve,darrin.............

 

[sassyrel]

As posted. Its probably a bad diode in the alternater. What that means is when the alternater is running the diode bridge is closed and pushing power to the electrical system. When the alternater is shut down that diode bridge must open to stop the flow of electricity from the battery traveling back to the alternater. It goes to ground when that happens. It will drain batteryes fast too. As for running straight motor oil for fuel.. Yes but it must be filter and preped correctly. One member "claimed" he could change oil in the engine and pour it straight into the fuel tanks without filtering. Maybe yes.. Maybe no.. I have not tried it so I'm wondering. Now no matter how well you filter the used motor oil the soot and small metal particles will not filter out. Thats what ruins the injection pumps. Then your rebuild charge is higher on the pumps. Can you run wmo yes you can. If it worth it.. Only you can tell yourself yes or no. These idi engines can and will run on used vegi oil like what mc donalds or donut shops get rid of. Personally speaking I think used auto trans fluid filtered is a better fuel than wmo. Even used hydraulic oil is even better than that.

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