Old Goat
Full Access Member
You do need some juice for the FSS.
I read a 9V battery will even work to
keep the solenoid happy.
Goat
I read a 9V battery will even work to
keep the solenoid happy.
Goat
Batteries 100% drained dead - new problem
- Thread starter RSchanz
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- voltage regulator
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Drivers side battery sat on the trickle charger all day and the charger said it was full so I took it off and it read 11.8 and then drained to 11.6 by this morning... not great.
Pass side battery charged over night and trickle charger said it was charged and it read 11.8...not great.
Maybe the trickle charger sucks, most likely the batteries are toast. Considering this, what can I do to not just buy new batteries and wreck those too? I guess at this point I need new ones anyways so should I get new ones and put them in, turn it on and at least check if volts go up when revving to check alternator? then just remove them before the truck drains them down too if thats the case?
Guessing I shouldn't bother trying to start it with batteries that low as it will either maybe not work or just put stress on alternator? IDK how old the batteries are, at least from 2019...
Pass side battery charged over night and trickle charger said it was charged and it read 11.8...not great.
Maybe the trickle charger sucks, most likely the batteries are toast. Considering this, what can I do to not just buy new batteries and wreck those too? I guess at this point I need new ones anyways so should I get new ones and put them in, turn it on and at least check if volts go up when revving to check alternator? then just remove them before the truck drains them down too if thats the case?
Guessing I shouldn't bother trying to start it with batteries that low as it will either maybe not work or just put stress on alternator? IDK how old the batteries are, at least from 2019...
I understand not wanting to buy two new batteries, but if you keep messing with a failed trickle charger you will be getting two new batteries. Save the time and trouble by getting two new batteries.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Nice! Yeah, I tested with it connected and it read like 12.8 or something so maybe the charger Isn't the problem.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
11.8 volts will not start your engine, especially after the GP`s
draw them down further.
Either your Batteries will not take or hold a good charge, or your Battery charger is not working.
Is the water level up over the plates? They need to be covered.
Use distilled water.
As has been mentioned above, you need good clean grounds, and good condition cables.
I had NAPA make me 2 new ground cables, my old one`s on the 86 were probably original. Noticed one day they had cracks in the insulation from one end to the other. Do not buy off the shelf prepackaged cables...too small. You need manly cables...
My Positive Cables are in good shape.
I had the truck down for about 2 weeks, with the driver side battery out and sitting on the floor.
Got it back together and decided to put the charger on to get both charged the same.
This is both Batteries in truck connected together.
Put it on 10amps in the afternoon, then around 11pm unhooked everything, Meter was down to almost zero.
Been driving truck past couple days, probably 100 miles or so.
So reading through this decided to check both batteries with my HF DVM this morning. Has been sitting since yesterday evening.
Passenger side 14.76
Drivers side 14.49
Haven`t seen them this high before.
Usually they are around 12.8.
they are 4 years old Costco group 65.
I have a SW Volt meter installed in the cluster where the Tach would live. It always shows 14 volts, unless the lights, Heater, Wipers are on etc...
Push down on the Manual Toggle GP switch, then yeah it really drops. Once engine starts, then meter starts to go back up.
If you are having a paracitic draw with the engine off, there are Battery Disconnect switches. This will save you having a dead Battery till you find the problem.
Goat
draw them down further.
Either your Batteries will not take or hold a good charge, or your Battery charger is not working.
Is the water level up over the plates? They need to be covered.
Use distilled water.
As has been mentioned above, you need good clean grounds, and good condition cables.
I had NAPA make me 2 new ground cables, my old one`s on the 86 were probably original. Noticed one day they had cracks in the insulation from one end to the other. Do not buy off the shelf prepackaged cables...too small. You need manly cables...
My Positive Cables are in good shape.
I had the truck down for about 2 weeks, with the driver side battery out and sitting on the floor.
Got it back together and decided to put the charger on to get both charged the same.
This is both Batteries in truck connected together.
Put it on 10amps in the afternoon, then around 11pm unhooked everything, Meter was down to almost zero.
Been driving truck past couple days, probably 100 miles or so.
So reading through this decided to check both batteries with my HF DVM this morning. Has been sitting since yesterday evening.
Passenger side 14.76
Drivers side 14.49
Haven`t seen them this high before.
Usually they are around 12.8.
they are 4 years old Costco group 65.
I have a SW Volt meter installed in the cluster where the Tach would live. It always shows 14 volts, unless the lights, Heater, Wipers are on etc...
Push down on the Manual Toggle GP switch, then yeah it really drops. Once engine starts, then meter starts to go back up.
If you are having a paracitic draw with the engine off, there are Battery Disconnect switches. This will save you having a dead Battery till you find the problem.
battery disconnects - Google Search
www.google.com
Goat
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Xtreme Charge 4Amp Battery Maintainer Charger
Part #: 200X010 Best-in-Class Battery Recovery: XC400 - test, charge, condition and maintain all types of 12V lead-acid batteries.Unparalleled Charging: Conditioning and Maintenance: Most chargers look at battery voltage only when it comes to charging. Utilizing highly capable software and...
pulsetech.com
That is the charger I have. (Older version) Also desulfates. I like it and have had great luck.
Just sold an Impala (2004) that had a red top from 2008 still in it. That optima red top I managed to kill 3 times. Last time being 2017. Hooked that pulse-tech to it and it said bad battery. Left it attached and left for 3 days. Came back, fully charged.
Our military trusts this brand and they deal in a lot more batteries than me.
Also if you jump batteries. I attach only the positive to the dead battery and attach the negative to a body or engine ground assuming they are in good shape.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Maybe the problem is that batteries being and not an electrical drain.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
This is what I’m hoping. Won’t know until Thursday. Worked too late tonight and anniversary tomorrow night after work. Stand by…
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Alright, got two new group 65 batteries 850 CCA from Napa. Thought maybe I should just connect one battery maybe drivers side first and check it after an hour or so and see if there is any parasitic drain. What do y'all think? I figure this would be better than plugging both batteries in and potentially harming both. If there isn't any drain in an hour or two I'll put the other in and crank it and test the alternator.
Since the old ones were at 0 I'm guessing this is a parasitic drain not alternator issue since it doesn't actually need the batteries to run after it starts. All of this said, I probably left the headlights on...lol
Since the old ones were at 0 I'm guessing this is a parasitic drain not alternator issue since it doesn't actually need the batteries to run after it starts. All of this said, I probably left the headlights on...lol
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Cant Write
Full Access Member
Does it spark when you attach the negative cable?
Do you have an incandescent test light to check for draws?
Seems like you could test standing voltage of the battery unhooked. Connect it and check again and see if it’s lower.
Do you have an incandescent test light to check for draws?
Seems like you could test standing voltage of the battery unhooked. Connect it and check again and see if it’s lower.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Yes, I have a test light. What do you think I should test or how? Was planning on checking volts of new battery connecting then testing again 45 minutes to 1 hr later.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Sure, did you do that and what were the results?
As far as testing, just video search it quickly. There are some videos that explain it better than I can. But you go to fhe fuse panel and use the test light or a meter to look for power draw when key is off. It’s a good place to start.
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
Try this...
Assuming you have charged batteries now...
With truck completely off ( key off, all accessories off, etc )
1) Disconnect BOTH battery negatives, just as commonly done to kill all battery power to the truck.
2) With tiny troubleshooting lamp -
( lowest possible current to illuminate. I would use an LED if possible, being aware LED are polarity sensitive, but it only takes a few mA ( thousandths of an ampere ) to light one up.)
- see if the light will illuminate if connected between either battery negative post and frame ground.
3). If it lights, something is drawing current.
4) If it didn't light, turn on your headlamps. If the test lamp does not light, something's wrong. Under this scenario, all battery current has to flow through the test lamp. There should not be near enough current available to actually illuminate the headlamps, but the test lamp will see it and light up.
These old trucks were wired with common sense and hard metal contacts, and when they are off, they are OFF. If the troubleshooting lamp doesn't see an open circuit out there ( doesn't light on an open circuit ) when you think you have the truck powered down...well, it not completely off... something's still a suckin' juice. Somewhere exists a sneak path around what was supposed to turn it off.
You did unplug any accessories from the cigarette lighter jack, no? I ran across that once. Guy had flat forgot he had plugged something in it. It is hot at all times.
Assuming you have charged batteries now...
With truck completely off ( key off, all accessories off, etc )
1) Disconnect BOTH battery negatives, just as commonly done to kill all battery power to the truck.
2) With tiny troubleshooting lamp -
( lowest possible current to illuminate. I would use an LED if possible, being aware LED are polarity sensitive, but it only takes a few mA ( thousandths of an ampere ) to light one up.)
- see if the light will illuminate if connected between either battery negative post and frame ground.
3). If it lights, something is drawing current.
4) If it didn't light, turn on your headlamps. If the test lamp does not light, something's wrong. Under this scenario, all battery current has to flow through the test lamp. There should not be near enough current available to actually illuminate the headlamps, but the test lamp will see it and light up.
These old trucks were wired with common sense and hard metal contacts, and when they are off, they are OFF. If the troubleshooting lamp doesn't see an open circuit out there ( doesn't light on an open circuit ) when you think you have the truck powered down...well, it not completely off... something's still a suckin' juice. Somewhere exists a sneak path around what was supposed to turn it off.
You did unplug any accessories from the cigarette lighter jack, no? I ran across that once. Guy had flat forgot he had plugged something in it. It is hot at all times.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
I don't have an LED test light but I'll try it with my classic incandescent first. This is kind of stupid but I want to make sure I do it right. You're saying clip it where the actual frame ground is or just clip it to the frame to ground it and then touch negative and if it lights when I touch negative thats bad?
