Banks sidewinder exhaust leaks

[tbiagent69]

I've been working on my 87 6.9 for the last couple weeks. I bought 10 injectors off of rockauto.com, and had them pop tested. Good thing I did as 2 were bad right out of the box

Problem is I somehow crossthreaded the #1 injector (see my other thread) and ended up destroying the injector. Went to the junkyard, and ended up with some sort of different series of hard line as it was too long and I ended up cross threading that one also, destroying the injector and ruining the compression fitting... again..

So next step is the plumbing of the banks turbo. I've looked at some other threads and seen that it is a T3 turbo? Is there any way to verify?

I've got that stupid box that says banks turbo, not 6.9 turbo like I've seen some others.

Anyway, it's leaking at the back of the turbo. How difficult is this to get to to fix? Would I be better off just having a new pipe built? It looks like the pipes come from the manifold to a junction, then up to the turbo and back down. Looks really inefficient... Does anyone know a common part number I could get one at kragen / jotozone / pepboys?

Also, what should the oil pressure on this clown be? I've got a gauge plumbed at inlet to the turbo and it reads 20 at idle, with a peak of 40 when I'm running down the highway. This seems low, but since it's in the input to the turbo shouldn't it be low?

It appears to be all part of the original banks kit, so any resources or additional information would be appreciated.

 

[icanfixall]

Your oil pressure is fine at idle or running down the road. Seems your fighting the hard lines. Try this. Loosen the hard lines at the injection pump. Then hand tighten them all the way down. Only then are you sure you have not cross threaded them. Another note about cross threading an injector hard line. The hard line nut is much harder material than the injector thread. So the injector gets cross threaded. You can remove the injector and with a knife edge file clean it up to work. Just have a spare hard line to test it on. I too have cross threaded the number 1 hard line on several different engines. Now if all this still makes it difficult to connect the lines then remove the hard line vibration clamps and then connect the lines by hand. Be sure to reinstall the clamps or you sure will break a had line. The fuel pulses from the injection pump makes some big vibration that cracks the lines in short order. Also never try to make a line fit that does not belong on that cylinder.

 

[tbiagent69]

I need to run to the junkyard again to get another line, and go back to the diesel shop where I donated my injector cores to get another one made up lol..

I didn't fight them, they were basically as easy to get on as all the others were. I did remove the number 8 injector line to get the number one in and out easily at the pump. Trust me, I wasn't TRYING to fight the line but this second one was a lot different than the first one was. I have no idea how or why, there must be at least two different styles of lines because I pulled it myself.

Thanks for the info about the oil pressure. I was worried, especially because someone mentioned they had 70 PSI and I'm nowhere close to that!

Any info on the sidewinder? Is it possible I may need to just plane the housing and adaptor down a little bit? Any info on a replacement pipe setup? My junction pipe looks like the truck was bottomed out on it, and I can see soot on... basically... every connection under the truck starting from the header pipes to the muffler. I don't care so much about that, but I do care a lot about ensuring there are no leaks between the manifolds and the turbo and it looks pretty bad.

 

[jaluhn83]

Going off memory, so this may be wrong....

The '6.9 turbo' casting was the first turbo setup - the square cast aluminum 'Banks Turbo' airbox is the 2nd version. Not much difference, though none important one is that the later one used a slightly taller filter (3-1/2" vs 3" IIRC) and the early ones are very difficult to find.

Turbo is a T4/t# hybred IIRC. I know the turbine flange is a T3. Russ (typ4) knows quite a lot about these, he's the guy to ask for sure.

You're going to want to locate exactly where the leak is. There's a flange between the turbine housing and mount, and then there's also a clamp flange (similar to where the pipe meets the exhaust manifolds) about 3" further aft where the up-pipe meets the mount assembly. May also be a slip joint in the up-pipe.

If it's the turbine flange you can easily get a gasket - just find a T3 turbo inlet gasket. Problem is that you're more likely to make problems than fix them taking things apart - I'll bet everything is well enough rusted that it'll be a nasty pain in the rear job, will likely have at least one broken bolt/stud to deal with, and you may or may not wind up with the same or worse leaks. Not trying to be a downer, just the voice of experience - exhaust work is a PIA. If you do pull it apart you're best bet is to soak everything with good penetrating oil, and be careful. Once you get it apart clean & inspect all the sealing surfaces. I've had decent luck using copper spray gasket adhesive to help build up sealing surfaces (use many coats), but if the surfaces are rusty or damaged there's not too much you can do.

$64 question is how bad the leak is, and where exactly it is. If it's bad enough to cause low boost then it's worth fixing, and if it's blowing hot exhaust on things that is also a concern.

 

[tbiagent69]

The truck is not really needed for daily use, so I'll start putting oil on the bolts every day after work right now. It's a pretty bad leak IMO. I drove from SD to El Centro (a little over 100 miles) and when I got home the entire top of the engine was coated in soot. To me that seems pretty substantial, and the truck does smoke some so I'm guessing it was tuned to run right with more air and it just isn't getting it. I'll check it out and may take it to a shop to get some new pipes made, and will report my findings (may even figure out how to post a picture!)

 

[jaluhn83]

Being in CA you might be okay.

I'd try tightening all the exhaust bolts up first and see if that helps. This will also help you take them off later if you need to - frequently tightening a bolt slightly will help break it free so it will come loose easier.