Bad oil leak, found source now how to fix?

[Classicfordguy]

Just got back from a 2000 mile trip pulling a trailer, while on the trip I developed a bad oil leak, about a 10" puddle every time I park. I finaly found it source today but have no idea how to fix it.

The oil is comming from a cast tube that is bolted to the bottom of the turbo and goes down into the valeypan right behind the intake hat, the tube is bolted to the back of the intake. It is leaking right where it goes into the valley pan.

Is there a seal of some sort there? What is the tube? How do I fix

Thanks,
-Rob

 

[SKimballC]

There's a grommet where the pedestal/oil drain sits in the valley pan. There's also a seal where the turbo sits on the top of the pedestal. You can order both of those from ATS. You will have to pull the turbo to change either of them. Once the turbo's out, swapping the grommet is easy, but pulling the turbo is a bit of work.

 

[82F100SWB]

That's the turbo oil drain. I don't know what size the tube is on yours where it goes into the intake, but, what worked on my Banks(I got it without the Banks grommet) was a PCV valve grommet that I got at my parts store, I had to trim the lip that sits inside the valley pan a little bit, but, it works perfect. In your case, due to it having been factory, the proper grommet may be available through your parts store.

 

[suv7734]

I'm not sure with the ATS/Ford setup but with the Banks turbo it is possible to remove the tube without removing the turbo. It isn't easy but it can be done since the tube is in two pieces connected by a short length of rubber hose. Also on the Banks there are special 2-piece ramped aircraft lockwashers that go on the bolts to hold the tube to the turbo. I'm not sure if yours will have these or not but they only install one way with the 'ramps' facing each other. Some use a bit of silicone where the rubber seal and tube go into the valley pan. Also there are some valley pans that are/were manufactured a bit differently and it is/was recommended to take an awl and punch a bunch of holes in the bottom of the baffle that is inside the drain hole you are talking about. This is due to the fact that the original design of the hole was for the CDR to 'breathe' into the crankcase which is a bit different than draining the turbo.
One other thing to check for is the amount of blowby you are getting. If you are getting an above normal amount the seal at the valley pan may be the path of least resistance and the oil is actually blowing out under pressure from within the engine rather than just leaking some of the turbo drain oil.

 

[SKimballC]

On the factory set-up the turbo has to come off to pull the oil drain casting out to replace the grommet. You could order the grommet from Ford but may end up paying more for it than from ATS. I think it was 6 bucks or something.

 

[hoodshauler]

The grommet needs to be replaced, it could also be the o ring where the drain tube connects to the turbo. Either way you have to pull the turbo, replace both while you have it out.

 

[Classicfordguy]

Ya, the turbo will have to come off, mine is a factory setup and the drain tube is all cast iron.

How or where would I measure the tube to tell them what size it is?

Also, how exactly do I test for blowby? Do I just take off the oil fill cap and see if air is comming out? The hose that comes from the top of the driver valve cover and goes into the air box shoots a good amount of smoke when I pull it off, does that mean anything, is that just he pcv valve?

Thanks,

-Rob

 

[SKimballC]

Rob, just ask ATS for the oil drain grommet which is number 20 on their parts diagram. Part # is DSL00143.

 

[Classicfordguy]

Cool, thanks for the part #, takes away the hassle of me describing to them a part I've never seen.

-Rob