ATS non wastegate y-pipe removal

[SKimballC]

Well, here it comes... that y-pipe on the old ATS won't give. Its been soaked and slammed and won't wiggle a bit. And I can't get the top stud out of the pass. manifold so I can't twist the y-pipe. There's just not enough room to get anything on that stud.
Anybody have any words of wisdom about getting that thing loose from the turbo? Ryan? John?
I have been cursing ATS anew today about that thing. Its what hung me up when I pulled one of these last year. Its driving me nuts.

 

[reklund]

Which Y-pipe? The cast iron up-pipe, or the crossover Y pipe from manifold to manifold?

I'm pretty sure you're referring to the cast iron up pipe, in which case you need to get that stud out of the passenger side manifold. The only other option is to remove the downpipe and the turbo mounting bolts up top, and wiggle and pull on the turbo. You seem to have the opposite problem I have- I can't get that damn up pipe to seal worth a darn in the turbo housing...

Last time I had mine out, I got that stud removed and it fell right out. I'll be removing mine again next week, so I'll let you know how that goes...

Ryan

 

[SKimballC]

Yep, the up-pipe. Everything's free but that. I tried wiggling from the top on the turbo, but it won't budge. I can't figure out how to get that stud out. No room for a wrench, only a socket really. The other stud came out with the nut stuck to it, but the nut on the top one broke loose. Its annoying me. I'll have another go at it in the morning.
Last time the exact same thing happened, so I pulled the exhaust manifold off that side to get the stud out of the up-pipe. That was a pain too but I didn't care because the engine had to come out anyways. I really wish that a bolt was used there and not a stud.

 

[Diesel JD]

Passenger side manifold...it is a PITA to pull with the motor in the truck or reinstall. I put mine in that way when I did the heads, although I removbed it with the heads off. Drivers side would be no biggie but the pass side.... good luck w/it

 

[tonkadoctor]

Give her a good soak with some penetrant for the night....Took me 2 days to get one bolt out to change the donuts on the stroke.

Patience, work it back and forth and hit it with more penetrant everytime you get it out a little before running it back in to break it free of it's death grip.

Before you put it back in slobber some antiseize on it to help prevent a future problem if you ever have to take it out again.

 

[SKimballC]

The problem is that its almost impossible to get on it so I can't get anything on the stud to work it back and forth. Its soaking in more penetrant but I can see little access other than moving the inside wheel well to really get to the lil bastige.
This problem won't arise like this again once its off. The one piece up-pipe/y-pipe on the old turbo is going to be replaced with its 2 piece suuccesor. I'm guessing the designers of this older turbo realized that they were some big dumb dummies and so replaced it with one that actually comes in half and SURPRISE! actually bolts to the exhaust snail instead of this slip fit nonsense both in and out of the turbo.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Are there any angles (like underneith) you can actually see the ****** plainly.....If so get some long extensions and a u-joint if needed on the ratchet....I've been known to get dangerous with 3 feet of extensions with a couple u-joints hooked to air tools before

My favorite hand ratchet is a long handle 3/8" drive with a swivel head, been able to get it in many places I could'nt get a standard ratchet

 

[SKimballC]

You can see it, but its not a matter of extensions. Space is too tight for an open ended wrench if I try tightening 2 nuts together on the stud. And I can't get the vice grips on there and turn it. I have another stud if I thrash this one getting it out, buuuuut its gotta come all the way out first. There's a little window where you can see what I am talking about between the inside of the wheel well and the frame. That top stud on the passenger side exhaust manifold. I may try taking the inside wheel well free enough to pull it back and get on the stud. Its what I did last time when taking the manifold off and am not too eager to repeat cuz last time suuuucked.

 

[OkieGringo]

For the penetrant, use "SeaFoam". It works miracles. I introduced it to my neighbor and he was absolutely amazed. Okiegringo

 

[reklund]

Hmmm.. Now that you mention that, mine's got a bolt in there, as the stud that was included in my used kit was toasted when I got it...

double nut it if you can, and give'r hell with an impact!

a little fire might not hurt it either...

Ryan

 

[SKimballC]

That SOB is now off the truck. I pulled the pass. manifold- not bad- and bolted the crossover pipe onto the up-pipe and kicked the hell out of it for about an hour. Whew. Now for the other turbo installation. Thanks for the feedback and shoulders I cried on fellas.

 

[DeepRoots]

when I saw the stud that was supposed to be with the system I wasn't much for it....

I took a bolt and threaded it through, washer/locknut/ nut on the other end.
the up pipe is a tough one.

 

[Diesel JD]

I'll have to figure out which stud you all are talking about, cause maybe I can save myself this trouble with the bolt like Reklund. Have to go look at my pipes here in a bit.

 

[SKimballC]

Yeah, its a pretty bad idea, of which ATS had quite a few when laying this thing out. The two bolts that hold the factory turbo to the pedestal are dumb too. Heck, at least on the old system you can SEE those two bolts. I have a couple studs to pull out of the old up-pipe to put in the new one so the crossover pipe can go on, swap valve covers, put the back half of the exhaust back on, and its done. I hope.