Are either of my 6.9L block s/n's good for a medium performance build?

Ford F834

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Hi guys, I am in need of some advice on 6.9L block differences. I have checked the net and dug up quite a few threads on the subject, yet I still have more questions than answers. The one useful piece of literature I found concerning s/n breaks was this:

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Now for my questions:

1) There is a lot of web chatter concerning two main s/n breaks, the first being 59209 and up. Am I correct in the assumption that this is the "A" block vs. "B" block break, with the 59208 and earlier having the block heater cracking problem?

2) The second s/n break often discussed is 173828 and up. Can anyone verify if this is what people are referring to as the "85" block? The chart above indicates the crank case received upgraded ribs on its sidewall.

3) In the experience of those here, how important is the 173828 s/n break? I am going to be doing a fairly extensive 6.9L build and I don't want to put my "goods" into an inferior block. The block in my truck says 6.9D U2U 010464*, and is a Ford crate engine installed in a 1986 truck. In spite of the 7.3L style oil filler and rocker arms, I take it this is a ~very early block... and not one I want to use even though I expect it to be in excellent condition. I also have a second 6.9L of dubious origin and condition with the s/n of 6.9D U2U 154017*

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If it checks out as rebuildable, would the 154017 block be a suitable foundation for a semi- "performance" build up (i.e.,110cc IP, BW S360 turbo, Stage 1 cam, etc., ~300 whp, boost in the 20's)? ....or should I seek out a late 6.9L block at a junkyard? There are only two currently at my local yards, one is clearly pre-173828, the other has a non-sensical rebuilders tag on it.

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If I am going to shell out good money for another block I would prefer the type with bolt-in piston oilers (s/n 237016 and up), but sadly northern Arizona does not have many bone yard 6.9's to choose from. If the consensus is to seek out a later block, then perhaps a trip to some larger out-of-town junkyards may be warranted. Thanks all for any insight or info you may have on this.
 

icanfixall

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I'm not really sure what the numbers are but I think the "B" block is what you want. Many others here will know whats the correct answer to this question. I will be watching the answers too. Knowledge is nice to have. I just wish I could remember all of what I learn here..
 

rhkcommander

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Catastrophic failures are rare with these engines, bottom end is robust. Ive only heard a few instances of rods bending or breaking, only heard of one or two cranks being busted. And since i dont know the stories it could have been hydrolocked or something else.

110cc pump isn't that much to worry about anyway. Cam, studs, comp 910 valve springs, balance, and ceramic coated pistons sound like a good recipe to me. Some have had the rods treated - cryo, shot, so on. I dont think that is necessary. Could increase oil pump PSI too... If worried you could get a girdle too.

Most of the time, the problem on early blocks was cracking around the outside of the block by the block heater. Thinner casting here but supposedly it only happens from running the block heater. Doesnt affect cylinders either

Depending on your transmission you probably need to do some upgrades to accomodate the increase of power. 6.9 manual transmissions can have clutch kits with disks from 10" to 13" (aftermarket i believe). C6 and e4 can handle power too with upgrades...
 

Ford F834

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Thanks. According to IH the "A" blocks were the 59208 and earlier. It is in this PDF on page 88.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/download/2003EngineQuickRefrenceGuide.pdf

So my unknown quality block is the "B" block. I will probably use that if it checks out. It is still an early block, but the concensus is that the block heater issue was resolved by then. I am going with main cap studs instead if a girdle, as I am not really worried about block flexing at my planned power level. I will be running a 13" SD Southbend clutch and a ZF-5 speed transmission.
 

riotwarrior

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I gotta ask, where did you get all these engines? Local dirt pile? they are just a tad filthy, especially that last one covered in soil even into the gears.

Hope you plan to fully tank the block of choice! TELL the machine shop to LEAVE CORE PLUGS IN for petes sake!

Good luck with the build, and have fun.
 

Knuckledragger

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After the A blocks, I have not heard of any negative issues about them. The bolt in piston oilers would be a handy and time saving item during rebuild but were added very late in the 6.9 run, probably only being installed in 1987 trucks.

The only fly in your ointment is that there were never any 6.9 pistons drilled for the larger diameter turbo rod wristpins.

I am not sure what Al is talking about, but have all of the plugs taken out if you have the block hot tanked. It is a good chance to get out more core sand and other debris.
 

icanfixall

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Leaving in the freeze plugs suggestion is because they are difficult to install correctly. you need the special tool or they will not install correctly. also buy only the oem stainless steel plugs in the package of 7 from international or ford. any other after market plug is nothing but crap and plenty of trouble. On the drivers side there are 3 plugs. Behind the flywheel there are 3 plugs. On the passenger side there are 3 plugs and one block heater. Never allow anyone to use brass plugs or just hammer them in with a punch. That wont work.
 

Ford F834

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The first block is mine (in the truck) the second is a "parts" engine I picked up for $200 complete with an 088 turbo kit, and the last two are junkyard engines. The last one is a dirt pile, I think it may have been oil and sawdust. Like I said... The bone yards are slim pickin's around here...


Thanks for the detailed Info on the freeze plugs. I was aware of the issue, but did not know how many or where they all are. My parts engine block has at least one popped out, so it's either time to get the tool or do pipe plugs.
 

mohavewolfpup

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Hmm, where are those located? The piston oilers?

After the A blocks, I have not heard of any negative issues about them. The bolt in piston oilers would be a handy and time saving item during rebuild but were added very late in the 6.9 run, probably only being installed in 1987 trucks.

The only fly in your ointment is that there were never any 6.9 pistons drilled for the larger diameter turbo rod wristpins.

I am not sure what Al is talking about, but have all of the plugs taken out if you have the block hot tanked. It is a good chance to get out more core sand and other debris.
 

Knuckledragger

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The piston oilers are located in the crankcase, underneath the camshaft. Part of the reason we have such a huge oil pump on these engines is that these eight oilers are continuously squirting the inside of the pistons and cylinder walls while the engine is running.

The early oilers were pressed in and are a bear to remove to bore cylinders or replace if you don't have the targeting template, which is no longer offered by OTC. If you pay close attention, you can reinstall them close enough to get the job done. It is a good idea to take out the oilers anytime the engine is apart, even if you are not doing a bore job. They are not very large and get plugged easily, leading to possible catastrophic failure.
 

Ford F834

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^^^ That there is some good info...

I would really like to go with a bolt-in oiler block if I can find one...
 

FarmerFrank

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Could the 6.9 block be retrofitted for the bolt in oilers? Just curious. I have a 6.9 I ought to pull the pan off and see if it would be possible
 

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