I put the hydra chip on. Both pcms were unaltered looking with the waxy coating still on them. I cleaned them well and got it to connect first try. The issues started before the hydra, so I don't believe that was the issue
I'm gonna try that. Not saying it's the whole issue, but I definately need it anyways. Auto meter guage and glowshift guage both saying the same thing. And I doubt I have head studs, so there's another thing I may need to look into. Didn't figure I needed them with stock injectors. Also didn't thing stock injectors would support that much boost regardless of turbo. And yet again, I could also still be wrong there as well.
Brand new with adrenaline hpop and Motorcraft ipr. Replaced IPC as well. Even replaced the cam position sensor but used the international one. Surely that isn't the issue? Also did the valve cover/wiring as well as glow plugs.
He's gotta "booster fooler", it's designed to fool a booster. So don't go boosting that fooler! I've heard that you can "kid a kid" and even "fool a fool", but a booster?
My truck would fall flat every time I hit the Go pedal hard. It would start de fueling at 22 PSI. Couple of times it tripped the SES light. The fooler did the trick. No more de fueling.
I must have misunderstood the comment, I thought someone else was recommending the booster fooler.
See! It even tricked you into not knowing where the boost was at! Those things work on several levels of "fooling".
That and probably need to adjust the nut behind the wheel. I forget it's not the 6.7 sometimes and mash harder. I suppose that boost number is higher with a load on the trailer as well. Gonna wait till I get some more cash in my hand and get a boost fooler. See what's up with that and go from there.
I wonder if that is an IPR thing. My '97 E350 (PSD/E4OD) would die sometimes too if you held it back in 2nd or 1st on a hill.
It may be. Not sure. But even after using a dab of loctight and a regular nut it still does it. It's not rocking loose anymore, but yet again, still don't know for sure. But at this point the pedal assymbly and sensors aren't acting up so il take that win. I'm sure the new symptom will be figured out soon enough
Wish I had held onto the other ipr from the old hpop to test that theory. Only reason I tossed it was because it wasn't motorcraft. I know that sounds picky, but other cheap parts I've bought in the past haven't done well by me(original argument of this thread). Tomorrow il have the auto enginuity and check ipr and IPC values while running and see how all the values react with throttle increases. I can test the throttle percentage with key on engine off, but testing while running will tell me actual pressures throughout the rpm range and volt range etc. I did just swap both water separator as well as fuel filter and found rust as well as water. Not sure how cause I replaced both tanks, ALL lines (front to back, supply and return), selector valve, sending units, injectors, hard fuel lines that run to the back of the heads, high pressure oil and fuel lines, hpop, ipc, ipr, etc with the e fuel upgrade all at the same time. But either way it was in there. Guess bad fuel, or something. Either way, somewhere I screwed the pooch.
