For the most hp for the buck I say turbo. Moose pump and BB code injectors. Now getting into the engine lets add studs... Porting the heads... Balancing the engine... Line honing or boring the main webs. Decking the block. A Typ4 torquer cam.... Then adding the Moose Mister injectors. The engine will be streetable and the power will be up around 350+ at the crank. Adding drugs (nitrous or propane) will add plenty more hp but driving it daily will keep you busy with the switching on and off the drugs. Water-methonel adds some cooling to the intake charge. Usually blue window washer fluid is whats used.... Installing a set of low compression Mahle piotons could lower your comp ratio plus milling no more than 15 thousands off the tops helps too. Milling much more can ruin the top ring because its closer to the fire... So said Eric, the head of engineering at Mahle International a few years ago. Mostly getting all the crank webs bored or honed straight and then getting the cylinders straight with the crank reduces lots of lost hp because everything is aligned and not dragging. Look at any main or rod bearing when they come out. If the waer is more to one side that showing misalignment and rotating drag. that reduces hp. Having our roller cam is a great idea. If we could install a roller bearing cam bearing that would reduce plenty of resistance to rotation. Lots of ideas on how to reduce internal drag. A good quaility ring is going to reduce drag too. A harder than normal cylinder sleeve reduces drag too. Synthetic oil reduces drag too.....
