Another Hard Start Thread...

[thevanbulance]

Sorry to start another thread on this but I've got a series of symptoms that I haven't come across after reading through this forum extensively. Here's what I've got going on:

2WD 1990 e350 ambulance with a 7.3 idi na

Symptom 1: Cold start require me to depress the throttle 1/4 of the way to prevent the engine from starting and then subsequently dying a few seconds later. As long as I depress the pedal at start and keep it there for a few seconds before letting it idle the engine runs fine. No smoke visible at all during startup or when running. So far I've deleted my heater element, replaced my lift pump and checked all the return lines/injectors for leaks (haven't checked the lift pump weep hole bc I can't see it). No diesel leaks visible or diesel smells.

Symptom 2: occasionally at start my engine temp, water in fuel AND parking brake light will all come on and stay on until I attempt to put the van in drive. The shifter acts like it's locked up and won't let me shift until I wiggle it a bit and then it releases and allows me to put it in gear. Once that happens all the warning lights go away. The engine idles with a rougher sound when the warning lights are on but returns to normal once in gear.

Symptom 3: I've noticed when coasting on flat or slightly inclined surfaces I'll get random intermittent engine surges. It doesn't surge when I'm braking or accelerating. Only when coasting and never downhill for some reason. It feels like the van can't decide if it wants to downshift or let it ride is how I'd describe it.

Symptom 4: my rear abs light is on continuously even after replacing the sensor and disconnecting the battery

Now, I know I need to do the return lines (have them on order and will replace asap) but given my other symptoms do we think it's all interrelated to an air intrusion problem or possibly different issues? Any ideas or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

 

[dgr]

Temporarily replace the return line on the filter housing with clear vinyl hose. That should quickly show you if you have air.

I moved away from the cloth covered hose for my return lines. I didn't think I was getting good life from the hose in the kits and I can get replacement hose off the shelf locally. The original clamps are difficult to use but larger are available off Amazon or maybe at Napa.

If you want to keep using the cloth covered hose, you can get made in Germany for VW air cooled. I only found it prepackaged. I think 6.9 uses 5mm and 7.3 uses 7mm.

 

[Kizer]

Symptom 2 sounds like ignition actuator and/or switch to me.
That's all I've got. The only auto truck that I own is a "retired" C6 truck.

 

[Selahdoor]

Sorry to start another thread on this but I've got a series of symptoms that I haven't come across after reading through this forum extensively. Here's what I've got going on:

2WD 1990 e350 ambulance with a 7.3 idi na

Symptom 1: Cold start require me to depress the throttle 1/4 of the way to prevent the engine from starting and then subsequently dying a few seconds later. As long as I depress the pedal at start and keep it there for a few seconds before letting it idle the engine runs fine. No smoke visible at all during startup or when running. So far I've deleted my heater element, replaced my lift pump and checked all the return lines/injectors for leaks (haven't checked the lift pump weep hole bc I can't see it). No diesel leaks visible or diesel smells.

Symptom 2: occasionally at start my engine temp, water in fuel AND parking brake light will all come on and stay on until I attempt to put the van in drive. The shifter acts like it's locked up and won't let me shift until I wiggle it a bit and then it releases and allows me to put it in gear. Once that happens all the warning lights go away. The engine idles with a rougher sound when the warning lights are on but returns to normal once in gear.

Symptom 3: I've noticed when coasting on flat or slightly inclined surfaces I'll get random intermittent engine surges. It doesn't surge when I'm braking or accelerating. Only when coasting and never downhill for some reason. It feels like the van can't decide if it wants to downshift or let it ride is how I'd describe it.

Symptom 4: my rear abs light is on continuously even after replacing the sensor and disconnecting the battery

Now, I know I need to do the return lines (have them on order and will replace asap) but given my other symptoms do we think it's all interrelated to an air intrusion problem or possibly different issues? Any ideas or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

1. Depress the throttle ALL the way... after you have turned the key as far as run.

This is what sets the fast idle solenoid that holds your throttle in fast idle until the truck warms up.

I fail to see how depressing the pedal 1/4 of the way, keeps the engine from starting???

2. You need to look into the ignition switch and linkage. It's not setting or re-setting correctly until you shift.

3. Possible problems with the fuel tank pickups. When facing downhill, if on the rear tank, it's almost impossible for this to happen.

4. Bypass the RABS valve.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I fail to see how depressing the pedal 1/4 of the way, keeps the engine from starting???

I was wondering that too.

 

[lsaami]

1. Depress the throttle ALL the way... after you have turned the key as far as run.

This is what sets the fast idle solenoid that holds your throttle in fast idle until the truck warms up.

I fail to see how depressing the pedal 1/4 of the way, keeps the engine from starting???

2. You need to look into the ignition switch and linkage. It's not setting or re-setting correctly until you shift.

3. Possible problems with the fuel tank pickups. When facing downhill, if on the rear tank, it's almost impossible for this to happen.

4. Bypass the RABS valve.

I was wondering that too.

you're misreading it. He's trying to say that if he doesn't press and hold the throttle 1/4 of the way down, it'll fire and die right away. he holds the throttle at 1/4 to clear it up for a few seconds, and then it idles fine.

 

[snicklas]

Start and die then crank crank crank is air intrusion. With the throttle depressed, the IP is moving more air/fuel and the momentum of the higher RPM's helps to keep it running until the air is purged.

Same thing I've seen on mine after a filter change or having the system open for some reason.....

 

[thevanbulance]

Appreciate the response. I like the idea of clear hoses. Definitely will make troubleshooting easier. Any suggestions on a good hose/supplier?

 

[dgr]

I just use the clear stuff from home Depot. It's only a temporary install for testing.

The rest of my hoses are black, off the shelf diesel rated hose from Napa. I think it was 3/16 on my 6.9 caps

 

[thevanbulance]

Start and die then crank crank crank is air intrusion. With the throttle depressed, the IP is moving more air/fuel and the momentum of the higher RPM's helps to keep it running until the air is purged.

Same thing I've seen on mine after a filter change or having the system open for some reason.....

Appreciate the help. Hopefully the return lines will take care of everything

 

[Christian9112]

Ive had my vinyl hose on my return line for about a year now. too lazy to replace it. dont be like me lol. Id put a check valve somewhere too if you still have the mech lift pump.

when I got my ambulace, I noticed that horton, the manufacturer of the box, had messed/tapped with a lot of the stock wiring. now my van has a spaghetti monster living in it. it could be the cause of the lights.