ANOTHER E4OD Thread? Rebuilt, Sat a Year, Now.....

idi_econoline

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Slow to build pressure from a cold start? Both forward and reverse requires 15? 20? seconds to start moving when cold.

Trans shop will be checking it out soon, but I'm hoping for some opins from y'all before then.....

Yep, this is the trans that stopped suddenly before rebuild ("Suddenly No Propulsion" thread), and the one I crunched the pump gear on, during install (forgot name of that thread).

My luck with this van has been.... yeah, you know. :frustrate
 

BDCarrillo

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Clutch pack piston seals? Only soft part I can think of that effects engagement...

If it was working well before being parked, I'd rule out issues with the hard parts (clutch pack end play, pump, clutch friction mat'l)...

I'd chuck in a bottle of K&W Trans-X and let her idle a bit.

Also, do you have a big ass cooler with a thermal bypass? I had an issue on my Mustang AOD with fluid starvation when cold... Cooler thermal bypass would trap way too much fluid. Got rid of it and had zero issues since.
 

OLDBULL8

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And, yeah, fluid's a bit over at the moment, but I doubt it'll ever run low, with the 3½ qt deep pan.

Overfill is bad, causes aerification of the fluid, pumps dont like air. Disconnect your cooler return line and pump out the over fill, pumps a quart out in about 15 seconds, then check the level hot before taking it to a shop.
 

idi_econoline

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Overfill is bad, causes aerification of the fluid, pumps dont like air. Disconnect your cooler return line and pump out the over fill, pumps a quart out in about 15 seconds, then check the level hot before taking it to a shop.

Thanks, OLDBULL, will certainly set the proper fluid level before taking it in. Been super-busy at work lately, but will soon have time to correct the level.

What confuses me about that: isn't the foaming on top, while the filter is drawing from the very bottom?
 

idi_econoline

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......Also, do you have a big ass cooler with a thermal bypass? I had an issue on my Mustang AOD with fluid starvation when cold... Cooler thermal bypass would trap way too much fluid. Got rid of it and had zero issues since.

No, just a smallish cooler, perhaps 1 ft x 1 ft. Straight thru, as far as I know.
 

BDCarrillo

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Do try that trans-x stuff... $10 that may save your bacon an loosen up anything too sticky, or lube a seal that's being a ******.

Worked well on a Taco I fixed up for a coworker.
 

trackspeeder

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Thanks, OLDBULL, will certainly set the proper fluid level before taking it in. Been super-busy at work lately, but will soon have time to correct the level.

What confuses me about that: isn't the foaming on top, while the filter is drawing from the very bottom?

When transmission fluid foams air gets into all the fluid. So the foam is from top to bottom in the pan.
 

idi_econoline

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Gotcha, Trackspeeder. Not driving her more than a few feet until I get the level right.

I can see that pressure would be hard to keep consistent with air foamed in.
 

idi_econoline

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Yep, still not great on the cold pressure. Level still a bit low on the dipstick, though not a problem, with a 3½ qt deep pan. Still lots of fluid available. What gets me is that the whole plastic end of the dipstick gets wet from splash, checking while engine running. I know it's not overfull any more, as I had to teflon-tape the sender plug on the deep pan.

All I can think of is that it's running the 5R100 filter with the deep pan, per pan mfg B&M spec. Last time I used the E4OD deep pan filter, which didn't pull from the bottom, but worked fine for over 10K miles.

Trans shop scheduled for Tuesday... will be sitting there overnight from Monday afternoon.
 

idi_econoline

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OK, here's the update from the trans shop:

They've observed several issues:

(1) Reverse slow to engage when cold. And if extra RPMs are applied, it slams into reverse, hard.

(2) Trans not consistently following lockup commands from remote controller, though computer is giving these commands at the right times.

(2a) They're seeing a mysterious wire scotch-tapped into the lockup wire, which they see going to the doghouse area. I'm thinking it's related to the trailer brake controller somehow, though I had no lockup problems before the trans' failure and rebuild.

(3) Among the codes the trans gives is a "FIPL" code. Interesting, as I don't remember a sensor attached to the IP, now or before.

(4) During one test drive, the trans stayed stuck in 3rd gear!

They have NOT observed the slow-to-go-when-cold behavior in 1st, from a standing start. They will keep test-driving to see this behavior.

ANYWAY, they're admitting that there are (as yet unknown) internal problems of some kind, and they will be, at least, dropping out the valve body. They're still deciding whether to drop out the whole trans.

And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, they will repair any internal issues under warranty, and even remove and install the trans at no charge, even though I removed and re-installed the trans for rebuild.

Related to those FIPL codes, they say the lockup issue may be "external" to the trans, in which case they may charge me for fixing that. Which is my question today: Is there an FIPL I'm not clueing to here?????

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reklund

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I thought all the automatic IDI's had a FIPL attached to the IP...but mine is a manual so I'm no expert. Someone with experience will chime in here shortly I'm sure.
 

BDCarrillo

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Yes, there's a FIPL on your IP. TPS, in other words. During diagnostics the transmission expects to see the throttle at WOT to verify max volt output of the FIPL. No pedal, then a harmless code. It can easily be probed with a VOM. Article is in the tech section.

The rapid reverse engagement with throttle leads me to think the pump is lazy.
 

idi_econoline

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Ah, that's what that thing is on the IP. D'oh.

When I replaced my leaky IP with a new Baby Moose, I must have installed the FIPL in another position. Oops. Tech article looks good, thanks.

Yeah, been suspecting the pump, but I don't know enough to make that call.

Keep thinking I should have gone with a C6 - or ZF-5 - swap when I had the chance. :frustrate
 

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