Another e4od problem

3day240sx

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The truck is a 90 f150 4x4 with 300 and e4od. The engine went down and I had to let it sit for 2 years before I got another engine for it. The trans had been built back 5 years ago or so and updated by a professional local company. After sitting for 2 years I threw another motor in it and took off. YAY!!! Well it had problems shifting into drive and reverse to start with. Drive cleared up fine after a hundred miles or so. The reverse on the other hand still hasn't gone away a year after replacing the engine. The reverse actually busted a u joint and drive shaft it was hitting so hard. So what is wrong with it? Thanks
 

david85

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Proof the internals of the E4OD are stronger than some give credit forcookoo Thats nuts.

Have you tried to pull any fault codes yet?

Do you have a list of the parts and updates the shop performed?

My shoot from the hip guess as to the problem would be a sticking valve, possibly the main regulator valve.
 

3day240sx

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Proof the internals of the E4OD are stronger than some give credit for cookoo. Thats nuts.

This was behind a 300 I6 too. Think of it being behind a diesel. The ujoint was probably going bad but the transmission beat the side of the yoke out and one of the caps. I wondered what the vibration was. Crawled under and found out.

Have you tried to pull any fault codes yet?

No I haven't pulled any codes b/c no lights are on to lead me to think there would be a code. If there is a code how do I check it with this setup? Would a pro link hand held read them?

Do you have a list of the parts and updates the shop performed?

No I don't I just remember the guy saying he did all the updates listed and that was april 04.

My shoot from the hip guess as to the problem would be a sticking valve, possibly the main regulator valve.

I have dump a few bottles of sea foam trans clean in it which I thought would clear up a sticking valve but had no change. If it is a valve can I change it or clean it with the trans in so I don't have to remove it.

Thanks
 

david85

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Sometimes it works, sometimes not. I had a few sticking valves in the valve body and some gentle sanding was enough to correct the 3-4 shift valve, but the 1-2 could not be salvaged. Eventually bought a completely new valve body from VBX and never had a problem since. Pricy, but in my case it was worth it.

It depends on how bad the damage really is. If the nick or scratch is deep enough, then it will still jamb in the bore no matter how much additive you dump in there.
I was able to make the 1-2 valve work for a few days, then it would revert to jambing after a while. One the damage gets bad enough it can't be salvaged.
 

3day240sx

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What would have caused the problem. The truck sat with no change for 2 years. I thought it just sitting wouldn't hurt anything especially since it had been rebuilt 5k to 10k before. Man these damn transmissions are ******* me off. Will this problem throw a code?
 

david85

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In my case it was metal contaminants from an "incident". Well, I put it together wrong and the overdrive section grenaded. Metal shavings were pumped through where the became stuck in some of the valves.

I agree it sounds strange for it to fail just from sitting if it worked fine before being parked. In all honesty I'm not even sure what a code scan will find, but as a general rule its safe to do that first just in case it could give you some clues.

I only read of one other case like this while surfing a couple years ago and in that case they never figured it out. Best guess was the main regulator valve in the transmission pump. Thats why I asked about the build details because technically, the pump should have been replaced with an F5 unit. At the very least, the regulator valve should have been replaced.
 

3day240sx

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The guy acted like he changed EVERYTHING in the case but I didn't get a list. He said he changed the TC and pump b/c someone had put the wrong pump in it but other then that he didn't specify.

A local guy I know said something about a drum seal drying over the sitting period and not sealing right. That kind of makes since b/c once you shift into gear it should take a second or less to catch but reverse will take 2 or even 3 seconds before it catches and then BOOM!!!
 
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