Another AC question

[FordGuy100]

Well it has been around 80+ here in Texas lately and I would love to have ice cold air.......

















But I dont. AC compressor turns on, and you can tell a little bit of a difference, but it definatly needs some work. System is R12...sooo....should I buy one of those crappy conversion kits, send it to a shop, or what?

I need AC, once summer hits, its going to be all over for this Oregonian

 

[SparkandFire]

My grandpa used to do alot of conversions on these trucks, he always told me to 1)evacuate the system. 2)pull the compressor off and drain as much oil out as you can. 3)put Castrol POE oil in compressor (I think its something like 2 oz, but im not sure. 4)install new drier and R134a high capacity orifice tube. 5)replace all orings. (cheap insurance) 6)recharge with 134a.


The thing about Castrol POE is it's compatible with both R12 and R134a (unlike PAG or mineral oil)

link to oil -
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/c...D=ccceadejjlkmkkmcfkmcgfmdfoldflm.0&oid=47451

 

[dave186]

I like to put a variable orifice tube in these trucks, they are about $20 instead of $2 but I think they help a lot with 134.

 

[SparkandFire]

Good point on the variable orifice!

I think the high temp version of the orifice on Rock Auto may in fact be variable, but I am not sure.

On my granddad's '89 he installed a conventional bulb type TXV with adjustable superheat when he converted over to R134a... That thing was cold as a meat locker inside when it was on

 

[david85]

I'd really like to try out one of those variable tubes in mine this year. I'll have to see if there is enough time to redo the system in my truck. I'll need a new dryer too.

BTW, I'm not using 134a in my truck. I'm running "duracool" but heard its illegal in some places state side. Works excellent and most autoparts stores here are starting to carry it. Cheap, effective, and comes premixed with lube already in it. This is considered a "flammable" refrigerant.

 

[SparkandFire]

I'd really like to try out one of those variable tubes in mine this year. I'll have to see if there is enough time to redo the system in my truck. I'll need a new dryer too.

BTW, I'm not using 134a in my truck. I'm running "duracool" but heard its illegal in some places state side. Works excellent and most autoparts stores here are starting to carry it. Cheap, effective, and comes premixed with lube already in it. This is considered a "flammable" refrigerant.

Correct, Duracool (HC-12) is illegal here. It's based on propane and butane, which are actually pretty good drop in replacements for R12. The EPA here banned them because of the "safety" requirements that flammable refrigerants in automotive applications... nevermind the fact that the most flammable thing in most cars and light trucks here in the US is good ole' Regular Unleaded.

 

[dave186]

Id like to see how that TXV conversion was done. I like expansion valves over orifice tubes but the variable one does help. I forgot to mention you will want to adjust your pressure switch when you change refrigerants.

 

[RLDSL]

If you don't already have it, y[u're in TX now, You need a pusher fan mounted in front of your condenser rigged to come on with the compressor . Set the switch to cutout arount 16 psi in recirculating after it's been running a good long time, double check this with a temp probe in the duct, don't let the duct temp get below 33 deg or the evaporator will ice.The switch has a flathead screw in the middle of it that adjusts the pressure, no need to buy a r134a switch.
Get some insulation like this and wrap your evaporator box on the engine side, then insulate any cab parts you want.. Get the VOV that is rated 105+ you rate by the temp 2" in front of the condenser, not the outside temp, and when you are stuck in traffic in the south in the blazing sunthe underhood temps go WAY over that 105 and if you jump out and shove a temp probe in front of that condenser in a traffic jam it will be well above 105 You usually have to special order this one, for some reason, most retailers that carry them only carry the other one.

Take a weekend and drop by for a visit and we'll get your ac freezing you out
If you really want to go nuts I know where to get a parallel flow condenser and those suckers help a bunch

 

[david85]

Correct, Duracool (HC-12) is illegal here. It's based on propane and butane, which are actually pretty good drop in replacements for R12. The EPA here banned them because of the "safety" requirements that flammable refrigerants in automotive applications... nevermind the fact that the most flammable thing in most cars and light trucks here in the US is good ole' Regular Unleaded.

Under the right conditions R134a is also a fire hazzard because of the oil. or so I've heard. In reality the total AC system doesn't hold enough of either to compare to the risk of a gasoline fire.

Come to think of it, I still have the electric fan from my saturn that I could use for the AC pusher idea. Wonder if its worth a try. Would probably help the tranny cooler too.

 

[FordGuy100]

If you don't already have it, y[u're in TX now, You need a pusher fan mounted in front of your condenser rigged to come on with the compressor . Set the switch to cutout arount 16 psi in recirculating after it's been running a good long time, double check this with a temp probe in the duct, don't let the duct temp get below 33 deg or the evaporator will ice.The switch has a flathead screw in the middle of it that adjusts the pressure, no need to buy a r134a switch.
Get some insulation like this and wrap your evaporator box on the engine side, then insulate any cab parts you want.. Get the VOV that is rated 105+ you rate by the temp 2" in front of the condenser, not the outside temp, and when you are stuck in traffic in the south in the blazing sunthe underhood temps go WAY over that 105 and if you jump out and shove a temp probe in front of that condenser in a traffic jam it will be well above 105 You usually have to special order this one, for some reason, most retailers that carry them only carry the other one.

Take a weekend and drop by for a visit and we'll get your ac freezing you out
If you really want to go nuts I know where to get a parallel flow condenser and those suckers help a bunch

Wow...lots of mumbo jumbo you guys are throwing at me. I guess the first step would be to figure out the components of an AC system.

So looks like for a real good system a fan infront of all the radiators is a good idea, especially for traffic. A variable orrifice tube, which I have no idea about, new o-rings, a good flush with some sort of oil I guess? Then refill with R134a.

Would love to take you up on your offer though, though the fuel cost will suck . But hell I guess they charge people an arm and a leg to dispose of there R12...

To be honest I remember seeing a couple one pound cans of R12 that my grandfather had on his shelf. What I wouldnt do to have them down here

 

[dave186]

Wow...lots of mumbo jumbo you guys are throwing at me. I guess the first step would be to figure out the components of an AC system.

So looks like for a real good system a fan infront of all the radiators is a good idea, especially for traffic. A variable orrifice tube, which I have no idea about, new o-rings, a good flush with some sort of oil I guess? Then refill with R134a.

Would love to take you up on your offer though, though the fuel cost will suck . But hell I guess they charge people an arm and a leg to dispose of there R12...

To be honest I remember seeing a couple one pound cans of R12 that my grandfather had on his shelf. What I wouldnt do to have them down here

If your going to flush the system (dont flush the compressor) you will need AC flush, any parts store should have it, but its kinda spendy.

The orifice tube is inside of the line that goes into the evaporator. A disconnect tool and some long needlenose should get it out.

Napa sells an O ring kit for Fords that will have everything you need and then some.

Im planning on adding a pusher fan to my truck if it ever warms up here! We are talking AC and its damn near freezing outside!

 

[HammerDown]

Question...
...is this Duracool (HC-12) along the same lines as Freeze-12?

 

[The Warden]

Question...
...is this Duracool (HC-12) along the same lines as Freeze-12?

I'm pretty sure it is...

 

[franklin2]

Wow...lots of mumbo jumbo you guys are throwing at me. I guess the first step would be to figure out the components of an AC system.

This always happens on all A/C questions on all the different boards. You have the career A/C guys who like to make things way more complicated than they have to be.

You don't need a fan if you have the original factory fan on the engine. My clutch was bad, and it still pulls enough air for the A/C to work.

You don't need to flush the system, the original oil will just lay in the system and not harm anything.

You don't need new o-rings unless you have a leak.

You don't need a different orifice. It might cool better with one, but unless you want your truck to be a meat locker, you can leave the original one in there.

If you want to change the drier, I'll give in on that one, though I have put 134a in a system with the old drier, and it worked fine.

You don't need all these weird oils. The conversion kits come with oil already in the can. You just keep it shook up and the oil goes in with the new refrigerant.

You do need to put a vacuum pump on the system.

You do need some sort of gauge to see how much you are putting in.

If you find out something is wrong with the system and it requires further work, you are out nothing but about $30 for the conversion kit.

 

[plywood]

You do need to put a vacuum pump on the system.

Can you elaborate on that particular point, do you mean something permanent aside from the existing vacuum pump on the engine?