Am I off 180 degrees?

Brutis

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HELP! SAVE MY IDI! Am I off 180 degrees?

I just finished swapping the fuel pump of my 1994 factory turbo parts truck (to go with the turbo I swapped a couple of weeks ago) onto my 1990. I also have new "G" code injectors. So now my 1990 7.3 has a 1994 factory turbo and fuel system. After I started it up (which took a while) it ran terribly. Horibly rough idle, motor shaking, tons of white smoke, would only stay running with my foot on the pedal. Would idle at maybe 500 for a few seconds and then die when I take my foot off the pedal.

My question is what is my problem and how do I fix it? I lined up the marks on the pump & pump housing (supposedly static timed). I expected I might need to tweak it a little to the passenger side, but this seemed extream. I could have some air in the lines, but again I thought it seemed extreme. Is it possible to have the pump mounted 180 degrees out of whack?

What do you guys think?

I really need my truck to be running by Saturday at 2:30. Thanks a ton.
 
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TwoTone IDI

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ugh, way to make me second guess my rebuild

is it even possible for a diesel to run at 180 out? i feel like the matter of running off compression vs ignition (to be vulgar) makes 180 out operation just about impossible.
 

sle2115

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Everyone I've seen can only go on one way...air is a biggy though, I mean, you can't keep it out, but it takes a while to get bled out. It air won't open the injectors to bleed itself out, it just compresses. I'd say bleed each injector by loosening the fuel line nut and cranking it over, it's best to have someone crank it and tighten the nut while it's still pushing fuel. I'm sure it's probably just a combination of timing and air if the parts were good prior to the install.
 

sle2115

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ugh, way to make me second guess my rebuild

is it even possible for a diesel to run at 180 out? i feel like the matter of running off compression vs ignition (to be vulgar) makes 180 out operation just about impossible.

Yeah, a couple people have reported them "running" but not well!
 

Brutis

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Just to clarify. Is it important not to rotate the IP when it is removed from the truck, or does that make any difference? I rotated it about 1/2 way around to match the slot up with the aligment dowel. I'll rest much easier tonight if I'm sure that's not where I went wrong, and that I don't have to pull the IP back off to reset something.
 

Brutis

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As far as ajusting timing I assume I am retarted to far and I need to move it to the passenger side to advance it?
 

plywood

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As long as you left the IP gear housing on there is no way it can be 180 degrees out or anything.

You can spin the IP, spin the engine and just line up the dowl and the static timing marks and be good to go.;Sweet
 

65sixbanger

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Exactly, the only way you can get it 180 degrees off is by taking the gear housing off and rotating the pump gear.... and you will probably have to turn the IP shaft a little to align the dowel pin, and as far as timing goes, just line the two martks up for now.
 

Brutis

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To give an update, I cracked all the lines and advanced the timing slightly and the truck runs like the beast its intended to be! Thanks to all for the advice. I was able to get it running quickly this morning without 2nd guessing myself. Again OB proves to be the ultimate resource!:hail
 

icanfixall

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You did the right thing by advancing the pump. Now getting it timed with a meter is the next thing to do. The G code injectors are not the best for preformance. A set of BB code injectors will wake up your motor. I ran severl sets og G injectors... Not very happy till I installed a set of BB injectors... It was like adding two more cylinders of power...:eek: Its as posted above... Nothing can be 180 out if you left the housing on the motor. These pumps can only fit the gear one way....
 

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