Alternators

mankypro

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The belt on my alternator is wagging a bit, so I figured I'd replace it and do my alternator upgrade at the same time. With the new 12v fuel heater and some other stuff I'll be adding I think it's a good idea to go to a 200amp alternator.

So far I've found one at LMC Truck (47-0156) for $440.00 seems very expensive. Can anyone recommend a drop in that is 200a and very dependable?
 

Agnem

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200 amp is a big one. Most just go with the 3G upgrade, or something in a 120 to 140 amp range. You'll have to pay the big bucks for big amps.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Smallish alternators that have had amps "upped" to bigger numbers usually don't have enough cooling capability, nor enough heat absorbing mass, to keep up with the extra demands, so are usually very short-lived.

You want something along the lines of a LEECE-NEVILLE = go shopping at a big truck bone-yard.


I have been considering one of these 170-amp units, although the same alternator in a 130 would probably be more than enough :



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-9...62QQcategoryZ33573QQihZ016QQitemZ260275237613




Has anyone had experience with these kits ??

Is it "clocked" right for our application ??


Thanks.
 
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mankypro

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While I could go through and add up the usage from all my accesories, I figured with my fuel line heater pulling 20-30a all the time that I'd need the extra umph, that and I'd like to be able to run and a/v system in the back for the munchkins, powerful driving lights, and a trailer's electrical system - figured I'd be pushing it.

Add a 400w inverter and well...you get the pikature

I'll be checking around...

200 amp is a big one. Most just go with the 3G upgrade, or something in a 120 to 140 amp range. You'll have to pay the big bucks for big amps.
 

subway

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not really because then you can skip the middleman.......them!

youcould just try calling back again and talk to somene else:D

i know meangreen makes some high output alt. for on board welding
 

mankypro

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seems like all the higher amperage alts I can get are internally regulated - my current one is external. What do I need to do to change this?

Does this sound right:

How do I hookup a one wire alternator if my stock alternator was an externally regulated alternator? What do I do with the regulator and wiring harness?



The only thing required to electronically hookup a one wire alternator is to run a charge wire from the battery terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery (or any positive battery source). The external regulator can be either totally removed from the firewall or left in place. If left in place, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness from the regulator. The wiring harness has to be disconnected from the regulator or the indicator light on the dash will remain on. NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with an indicator light, the light will no longer be operative. Please see the following question.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-9...62QQcategoryZ33573QQihZ016QQitemZ260275237613




Has anyone had experience with these kits ??

Is it "clocked" right for our application ??


Thanks.

I have used a 3G in other Ford applications and I was totally satisfied with 130 amps. I believe the 3G puts out more current at a lower rpm, which is the flaw in most of the lower current Ford designs.

Whatever you do, don't buy anything that says Duralast on it. A friend of mine with an Excursion put a Duracrap alternator on it after the original Ford unit died after about 100K. Three Duracraps later (within 20K miles total), he went back to the factory Ford unit that is still ticking after another 75K.
 
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Mr_Roboto

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You don't want a one wire alternator. They are a gimmick that sacrifices low RPM charging for simplicity.

A stock 3G is fairly easy to hook up, just a few wires.
 

mankypro

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Yeah after doing a bit of research I'm becoming a bit more conversant on the subject of alternators :)

Thanks for the heads up.

So with a 3g conversion - if I was to purchase, say a 200amp 3g is the cabling the same? Meaning, could I just splice the inputs to my existing external regulator the back of the 3g alternator?

I don't have the time to go junkyard hunting, so I'd be buying a new alternator to do this with. There's an outfit alternatorparts.com that has a 200a 3g that will bolt on for $329.95 and I'm tempted to do it.

Of course I could just give a 100amp internal regular one for $119.00 a shot - and it's available locally. This 12v fuel heater is killing my batteries. (20a-30a draw)

You don't want a one wire alternator. They are a gimmick that sacrifices low RPM charging for simplicity.

A stock 3G is fairly easy to hook up, just a few wires.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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STAY AWAY FROM ONE-WIRE ALTERNATORS



One-wire alternators are okay for simple systems like old farm-tractors, power-units, and the like.


They are battery killers and poor performers on highway vehicles.

Since they have no means of remote voltage sensing, the voltage is sensed inside the alternator, with an appreciable voltage drop by the time the current reaches accessories, thus causing such things as dim lights and short-lived motors.
 

mankypro

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so can anyone answer my question about wiring up a 3g? Do they have 3 connectors on the back like my 1g? Is it a case of removing wires from the original external regulator and splicing them onto the back of the 3g?

Anybody? Bueller?
 

Optikalillushun

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that is certainly a 3G but u wont see 200 amp. belt slip occurs before u will see 200A from that alternator.

both of my $17/piece junkyard 3Gs put out 160A at 2,000 rpm and right around 90-95A at idle speed.
 

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