almost ready to start?

[blackbear]

so i set the engine back in the truck yesterday after it had been removed to replace head gaskets. its been almost 7months since i pulled it out and finally have everything back together, almost everything. i spent most of today connecting things to try and start the engine. removing this stuff was soooo much easier than installing. i spent some time fighting the turbo into position, so that wont come back out unless its absolutely necessary. so as of now all the glow plugs are loose except the one directly under the turbo, the injection lines are cracked open, the injection pump is lined up with the timing marks at the 12o'clock position (what are the markings for that are further down around 10o'clock?), oil in the filter and pan, fuel lines attached with fuel in filter, all exhaust torqued down, starter and wiring from it are installed and the glow plug harness is in place. so, i think all i need to do would be to attach the connectors for the injection pump, remove what glow plugs i can, attach the grounds, hook up the batteries and turn the key. wait for decent fuel, then reinstall the glow plugs, tighten the injection lines and see if she runs? what am i missing/need to know???

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yesterday

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this morning

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this evening

 

[oregon96psd]

who cares if it runs...that thing is CLEAN

Sounds like ya got everything taken care of, pull the rag outta the turbo and give it to it.

(And the tape off the cdr)

 

[Hydro-idi]

Man is that one hell of a nice engine. Great job on that idi that is a peach right there! Looks like you are on the right track to getting her started soon

 

[dgr]

Disable the glow plug controller. No need to be feeding any juice to that one glow plug. What pump timing marks are you talking about?

That sure is clean! I really like that 3G mount. Is that what the newer engines use?

 

[blackbear]

thank you for the complements, i have yet to mount the glow plug controller. i assume i can get by without it till i try and start the engine? this is a 94 truck/engine, i dont know about the mount. i would assume there on the 93's and 4's or whatever engine uses a serpentine belt? i see some markings on my pump and housing at about 2o'clock if your looking from the front and i saw a youtube clip where a guy was referring to them(and now i cant find the clip). ive read and seen several things about this engine in the past several months, it feels like the more i learn the less i know now-

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top markings 12o'clock

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drivers side markings about 2o'clock from front

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side shot

 

[dgr]

My guess is those are added by a prior owner or mechanic when timing the ip

 

[blackbear]

so in not sure what im overlooking, something is obviously not right. i can get the starter to turn over but only if i jump the two post on the solenoid, but if i turn the key i get absolutely nothing. if i use the key the electronics in the truck turn on and the wait to start light comes on but if i go to start it nothing happens. also, i got fuel to the injectors pretty quick except for the #1 cylinder. so i checked the hose entering the lift pump to see if any fuel had reached and it poured out. i then disconnected the line going into the injection pump and there was fuel coming out when i turned the engine over. now ive re-loosened all the injection lines to the injectors and im not getting any fuel to any of them? any ideas? i not real positive on the wiring, i took decent photos when i pulled everything apart. at least of the glow plug controller and everything there seems to be correct. but as far as the solenoid and random wires im really not sure. please advise!

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the two red wires are coming from the battery, the two yellowish ones that are on top to the left are from the GP harness, the two thicker ones to the right of the yellowish ones come from the drivers side head light harness and the two toward the bottom of the stack on the far left come from the harness connected to the alt and a sensor in the timing cover and a/c. also pass side ground cable comes from the engine to the battery and theres a smaller gauged wire from where its bolted to the engine which i grounded to the frame?

 

[riotwarrior]

First, get that solenoid mounted on the fender as it's supposed to. It needs to be grounded to fender to function correctly.

If all the wiz bang electronics and everything works in the cab sounds to me like solenoid thus once mounted try this....

....jumping from the two marked wires is the correct way to jump the solenoid, your method large post to large post, is BY passing the solenoid and putting high current load on jumper.

the RED + marked wire is the signal wire from the key to initiate the starter, there should be no power to it unless you turn the key. Then there should be power there thus initiating the starter!

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Hope this helps with your troubles....

Let me know if this works.

Al

 

[dgr]

Tell me that little candy ass red wire on the right side of the starter solenoid isn't the wire that goes to the starter?

Pull the small wire on the small post and check it for power when the key is turned to start. If it doesn't show power, you either have the wrong wire, there is a break somewhere or you have an ignition problem somewhere in the cab. Ignition switch or neutral safety switch.

edit: my vote is on the solenoid not being grounded.

On your IP, are you hearing the FSS still click when you turn the key to run? Check the front wire (front is front) at the IP for power. If it doesn't have power with key in run, trace back to engine harness connector over valve cover and go from there.

 

[blackbear]

okay, thanks for the timely responses. thats funny about the solenoid, i looked at the back of it this morning and thought to myself- 'i wonder if this needs to be grounded?'. oh well. so i got that mounted and put one wire at a time to see what would happen. i got 3 of them on before it turned over by the key. so i hear A click but not clinking, like i remember? so do the two yellowish wires go to the solenoid as well? they come off the GP harness on the passenger side. and yeah that pewnnie red wire does come off the starter?? i was wondering why my starter was getting so hot so fast because i wasnt cranking it very long each time and waited quite a bit between cranks. im still not getting fuel like i did this morning????
how should i check for the power to fss?

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this guy needs a place to go? nothing different happens when its connected with the rest of the wires on the right terminal on the solenoid??? (from GP harness)

 

[dgr]

This is not my writing but may help you with your wiring for the GP controller:
1. Under the metal strap on top of relay is a YELLOW wire from the bottom of relay housing.
2. The metal strap then wiggles down to this housing were the GREEN wire from the housing connects along with the BROWN (double wire) from your glow plug harness.
3. Now looking at the relay from drivers side (metal strap side) the RED wires from the housing and from the glow plug harness attach to the lower right bolt on top of relay.
4. The YELLOW (double wire) from glow plug harness connects to the upper right post.
5. The WHITE wire from the housing connects to the upper left post.
6. The BLACK wire from the housing connects to the engine head as your ground.
7. The BLUE wire with the plug, plugs into the wiring harness that goes to the glow plugs.

 

[blackbear]

so the glow plug controller looks ok, its just the two yellow wires come off the harness on the passenger side between the valve cover and fuel filter mount. i cant find any pics from where i took it off? so now not only am i not getting fuel to the injectors but i lost the WTS indicator too???? i took off the line from the filter to the injection pump again and tried cranking it and fuel spews out but not at the injectors. i dont get it??? this is becoming less and less enjoyable by the minute!

 

[blackbear]

anybody? ideas, suggestions... no fuel to injectors but fuel to IP. i had fuel to the injectors this morning when i was jumping the solenoid, all but one- #1 cylinder. mounted the solenoid to the fender and now i can use the key. but now i get no fuel to the injectors which ive cracked open again. no WTS light anymore either? AAHHH!!!

dgr, what im i looking for from the fss wire? all the wiring there seems fine and connected properly.

 

[dgr]

If you don't have a test light, turn your key to on. Take the wire off the fss. It should click. Put it back on. It should click again. If you have a ready light, disconnect wire and test for power with the key on.

Sorry I don't have a 7.3. I have to run but see if you can scare up a wiring diagram online. I will be back later to check

If you want to bypass whatever wiring is causing issues, take a spade connector, roll one side open so it will fit the Fss, and use it to connect to battery power

 

[blackbear]

ok, ill have to check that tomorrow. i have the batteries charging for now, i checked the fuel filter and its still full even after i loosened the line from the filter to the IP and had fuel spew out while cranking. ill check and see if its still full in the morning for whatever its worth. i can only think the engine was warm enough for the WTS light not illuminate? also while jumping the solenoid the 'correct way' the starter didnt get half as hot.
dgr, thanks for your replies!