AIR CONDITION BLUES

[fraree]

Funny about that interior photo always gets someones attention! The only thing bad about it being on the "right side" is the passenger rides on the multi adjustable seat & has the cavernous footwell Still feels like I'm piloting a Japanese built truck

 

[fraree]

Now all the other maintenance jobs are out of the way, it's back to the A/c. Decommissioned the rear A/c, (ambulance setup) by disconnecting the hoses, which were leaking at the joiners. Made a new hose, fitted a new receiver drier, evacuated the system,(all good) tightened a couple of loose connections & started the re-gas proceedure. No power to the compressor So we hot wired some power to the compressor for re gas. Nice & cold but I don't know why I've lost the power to the compressor. Where could I find an intelligable wiring diagram with colour coding to view. Maybe I've bumped or not reconnected some wire while doing the injector cup proceedure Thanks Russ

 

[fraree]

Played some more today & went backwards . Trying to figure out why the compressor doesn't have any power at the clutch. It must be something to do with the old rear A/C unit wired into the system. Checking all the connections, now no fan working in the cab bu fan the still runs in the rear unit. Replaced the resistor on the evaporator box, after the airbox was removed, for easier access. Checked the sensor on the receiver drier for power which had a good connection. Also checks out on the "beep test". Where to now

 

[fraree]

Well we've managed get the blower motor working with a jump wire from the relay. Where can I find schematics (diagram) for the wiring, colour coded too ?
There must be a fused wire to the relay somewhere ? Checked all the fused we can find

 

[fraree]

Vacuum was the answer. Definately not used to looking for vacuum control on electrical issues, no wonder I was

 

[fraree]

Anyone have over power problems with the wires to their fan motor. On low settings its only warm but on the highest setting melted the connector!

 

[DaveBen]

You have a short in the fan motor. Ohm it out and you will see close to zero ohms at the high setting. This allows a lot of current to flow through (over current) causing HEAT at the motor connector. You need to find a new motor.

 

[fraree]

It is a new motor, even fitted a new rectifier into the system. The vacuum switch on the dash won't let the clutch lock in so I fitted a " hot wire" to power it up to test it out the workshop. Got me stumped !

 

[fraree]

Well my fix was a relay on the fan motor & one on the compressor. Genuine parts would be at least 2-3 weeks away & I need this going now. 100f days are upon us in western Qld. Enjoy your winter in the northern hemisphere!

 

[James R Dillard]

Hopefully you have this fixed by now. For a extra cooling kick if you haven't done this already install a Ford Ranger heater control valve. 1995-2011 Ford Ranger Heater Valve - Four Seasons W0133-1814062 This goes into the heater core hoses and connects to the Max air vacuum line with a t.

 

[fraree]

Thanks. I removed the heater core totally ages ago as it was restricting air flow. What dumb design ! How could enough air possibly flow through a second core. Its never cold long enough to warrant a heater out here . When we need a heater in vehicles out here we use the A/c like a household unit which works fine. Until I can purchase a genuine vacuum thermo switch, I've fitted a vacuum timer switch like the ones on public lights where you can adjust the time & push in the vacuum switch. When its time runs out (switch pops out) turns off. Its a bit "Fred Flintstone" but does the job.