Aftermarket gauge ideas. 6.9 & 7.3

JacobHansen

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Who has pictures of there gauge pods, triple or dual. I'm looking to install a set for oil and water. But want something tasteful not just screwed on dashboard. Before I go cutting and re arranging. How's it set up and where did you put it?
 

frankenwrench

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if you are brick or bull nose (I am brick) it will need a touch of trimming on the very bottom. This is made for obs. But you can find them on summit racing and jegs and I am sure several other places. I have found them from single hole to 4 hole but there may be more options. Keep in mind your guage depth though. Got some autometer brand and I wasn't able to make them fit. May ask Wes how he got his autoguages to fit because his setup is rather clean and they all fit in his.
 

JacobHansen

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Where do we put the oil pressure line on the motor? On the 6.9? Im sure the 7.3 is same. I didn't see any good spot. How is the one above the dash? A good spot for it? Iv been debating mounting out front of the o.e.m. gauges.
 

JacobHansen

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Oh and can I put the water temp sensor in the bleed hole on the water pump? Or would that not be an accurate place for it.
 

frankenwrench

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No on water pump. On driver side head there is two stock sensors one for temp and one for overheat light. As far as the oil you should have stock sending unit u can thread into behind CDR valve.
 

frankenwrench

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Pictures kinda trash but u get the idea. Behind the trim fir the oil guage. Currently doing same on wife's 85 with 6.9. actually about to do alot on hers. This makes mock up easy as well lol.
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arizhntr

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I ended up putting the mechanical sender in the overtemp location. I tried and could not get the factory temp sensor removed. Now I just subtract 10-15 degrees off of the reading. As for the oil temp gauge, I ran a tee at the Banks oil feed for the turbo. This also serves the purpose of letting me know the turbo is actually getting oil. I suspect the pressure reading is slightly low in this location. My third gauge is the pyrometer which has saved me a few times
 

IDIBRONCO

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I ended up putting the mechanical sender in the overtemp location. I tried and could not get the factory temp sensor removed. Now I just subtract 10-15 degrees off of the reading.
I had the probe for the temp gauge in this location in my Bronco. I saw the similar readings. On my F250, I first had the temp probe in the top of the water pump. I moved it to the factory sender location. I really didn't see much, if any difference in the readings between these two places. There may be a difference when towing heavy, while running the A/C, which I don't have at this time.
 

F350camper

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When I did my 4bt conversion in the Ranger, I went full scorched earth on the gauges since the factory ones are all lies anyway.
Working with ABS plastic is fun, and easier than you might guess. Im sure this is bigger than what you are thinking, but I just wanted to share that making a pod be what you want it to be isnt too bad.

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frankenwrench

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When I did my 4bt conversion in the Ranger, I went full scorched earth on the gauges since the factory ones are all lies anyway.
Working with ABS plastic is fun, and easier than you might guess. Im sure this is bigger than what you are thinking, but I just wanted to share that making a pod be what you want it to be isnt too bad.

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Now that's a damn good looking cluster setup
 

JacobHansen

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Now thats what I was thinking. Wow nice work on those! I was thinking of using diamond plate if I go that route. I think my plan will be to make an insert simular to that. Maybe remove the clear case or some of it. and have the oil and temp covered by new ones, so the speedo and fuel can still be seen through the plate.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I prefer my oil press, coolant temp, and pyro take center stage.
fuel gauge, boost and now fuel pressure gauge on the pillar.
Those look like the VDO vintage style gauges. It's been a LONG time since I've been into that kind of thing, but that's what they look like to me.
 

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