ABS and Brake light came on ...

derjackistweg

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I just just on new 35s. As I did first right side front and rear I turned the truck on 265 left and 315 right side. After I parked the truck [3 times forward and back- this place was tight (at least for US cars)] the ABS light + Brake light came on.
Now it´s on 35 all around but still light on. I did not drive more than 20 yards still then but wither every start light are on. I needed to start several time to trim Fender and Bumper.

Truck is an Quigley Econoline 4x4 with an Dana 60 front and rear. 100k and an IDI N/A. It has rear ABS, not all around and it´s from 1993. As far as I now the truck has a limited slip in the back.

I liftet the truck with a standard simple and very small jack.


It is obvious that ~ 10% difference left and right is stress for the axle but this cannot result in a defect. Image slippery road or ice.

How can I clear codes? I have not jet checked codes. I´ll do this tomorrow.
 

DaveBen

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Check the wiring to the rear brakes at each rear wheel. There is a wheel sensor at the rear wheels and if it is unplugged or broken , you will get the ABS light. Good Luck.
 

derjackistweg

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Check the wiring to the rear brakes at each rear wheel. There is a wheel sensor at the rear wheels and if it is unplugged or broken , you will get the ABS light. Good Luck.
right. sounds logical ;). I did notice a thick cable that I put into a bracket that should have hold it - I guess. But I think this has been the food brake cable.
I do know ABS sensors and their cables from my Bimmer.

How does this type of ABS work? I have seen the ABS ring inside the Diff once, when it was open. Normally there is an ABS Hydraulic block next/ near the brake cylinder...
 

derjackistweg

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So here is why: Pretty much like I mentioned in my first post the cable that I fixed inside it's supposed to be position. It has been the ABS sensor line. Looked like it has been too much bend.Maybe like an iPhone.

Back out of the braked no light anymore. Strange but true. ;)

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derjackistweg

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Update:

ABS light and Brake light are still/ again on. So there is still a miss-function.

The Brake light is the one with 2 Wheels in a symbol. I think it´s the parking brake light. The parking brake light - though only sometimes comes on when parking brake is engaged.

My truck is a early 1993 Quigley and it has only RWABS (rear wheel ABS)! It has an ABS tone ring in the Differential. On the Ring of the Ring and Pinion. I cannot see an ABS Sensor at the Wheels. The cable above should be the parking brake, correct?

There is an connector at the rear diff top. That looks "ok", meaning it is connected. Remember this all came on, when I turned the truck with a 265 left and a 315 right. ONE 180 degrees turn.


Sadly I cannot find an manual of my truck anywhere online. I can only find something the the much newer and modern ones with Power Strokes, Airbags, 4 Wheel ABS. Does anyone have something for early 4 th Generation ones?


Could this be braking fluid too low? Is there a sensor in the fluid container? In a 1993 model year? [this idea just came into my mind this second]
 

Thewespaul

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There is a sensor in the mc reservoir so check your brake fluid. There are many things that can trigger these lights, so the easiest way is to use the abs blink code to determine what is triggering the lights. There is a procedure to do this and its quite simple but can be easier with a second person.

Here is the procedure:

In order to check your RABS code, you'll need to "find" a black/orange wire that goes into a red wire. When I say find I mean that Ford used 3 places to hide this connector from what I've learned. Mine is on the support rail that sits behind the glovebox and is slightly hidden, but you can see it here...
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I should note this is with the glovebox off.


The other places for it to be would be under the drivers side dash (around the column) or out under the hood near the EEC plug (generally applies to vehicles that have 4WABS from what I've noticed).

Anyways... once you find the plug ground the black and orange wire to ground. If you ground the red one you'll blow a fuse. Once you have the wire grounded, turn on your ignition and watch the ABS light. It will then flash codes at you just like the Check Engine light would flash codes. When it ends a code it will end it with a long flash before starting the next code (if there is one), just be sure to count the long flash as well.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: When you get your code(s) post back here and we'll try to figure out what your problem is.
 

derjackistweg

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There is a sensor in the mc reservoir so check your brake fluid. There are many things that can trigger these lights, so the easiest way is to use the abs blink code to determine what is triggering the lights. There is a procedure to do this and its quite simple but can be easier with a second person.

...

EDIT: When you get your code(s) post back here and we'll try to figure out what your problem is.
Interesting. :thanks:
Oh dear ... I don´t have a glove box, as it is an Van and also was an ambulance from which I (hopefully) diconnected all the elec. Ambulance stuff
I think it will be under my drivers dash. Probably best to first check if it´s the brake fluid level, so after Christmas. Also some stupid mechanics inserted DOT 4. Plus an leaking line at the master cylinder not fixed. So actually there are some thing to be done ...


The mentioned cable has an open connector? Like the OBD I port (probably only with one line)?
In my 2000 manual is a #2 fuse (15A) mentioned, responsible for that ABS. I (honestly) have not checked fuses, as I dont´t habe any failures. Remember light at first came on after 1-2 minutes.
 

Cubey

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My Rear Antilock light comes and goes, even sitting still sometimes...
 

derjackistweg

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My Rear Antilock light comes and goes, even sitting still sometimes...
I live in Germany:
Every 2 years all cars need to pass a technical inspection. IF ABS light fails I will NOT get the pass.

Like: ABS Light needs to light before ignition, to prove its working. After ignition it needs to get off.

I need to get my new tires approved soon. If the inspector sees the light not functioning correct - I will not drive my truck untill it is fixed within 2 weeks from that.

If it´s not fixed I can go walk home. This is how it works. You can like it or not.
 

Cubey

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The US did away with safety inspections in some states decades ago.

It’s left to the police actually. They can ticket you for cracked windshields and bald tires but it doesn’t happen in most states.
 

derjackistweg

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The US did away with safety inspections in some states decades ago.

It’s left to the police actually. They can ticket you for cracked windshields and bald tires but it doesn’t happen in most states.
I know! When I see some YT videos from US/Canada cars :eek:.... none of them would be driving in Europe. Actually Police has NO clue in comparison [of course].
If ODB shows a code with P (power, meaning engine) > you walk and your car stands still
IF ODB shows anything related to safety features like ABS, Airbags, ESP etc > you walk
If any suspension part has play in any joint > you walk
IF a part of you body is rusted through, I mean by a needle small hole, > you walk [not by body on frame, and "only" on relevant parts like all except doors, roof]
IF your engine does not fit into its emissions regulations, they get strikter every some years, as we know, > you walk
Of course windshield, lights, tires, brakes- these are the easy ones ...

besides that every suspension mod, tire mod, engine mod > you walk [except is has been an official approval which is costy up to several 100$]

The 2 years inspection costs 120$. And it takes ~ 1h in which every component gets inspected by engineers who are specialized to find anything unusual! They have ALL technical information any can get by manufactures and state.
Plus if they can find anything, you need to come back with the repaired car and make a new inspection for half the cost: 50$ So they can make 50% more money, 170$. So they have a huge interest to find stuff.

Sorry this is off-topic ;)
 

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