A couple of bungholes?

[smolkin]

I need to drain my tanks, which have been sitting for the better part of a year with a few gals in them. Has anyone here installed bungs or drains on their factory tanks? Is there a good way to do this that won't leak? Or should I just drop the tanks (not fun)? I don't want to just pump them out like I did last time, it still left some junk on the bottom.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i wouldn't put in any drains just b/c it makes it that much easier for theifs.

 

[smolkin]

i wouldn't put in any drains just b/c it makes it that much easier for theifs.

Well, I have locking caps after an incident 2 yrs ago when someone siphoned my bio tank...I sincerely hope they put it into an '87 Honda Civic with a fartcan and $1000 of accessories from the Walmart automotive section and removed another one of those from existence. I don't think they'll try again, and they'll be getting more bio if they do!

 

[oldmisterbill]

I have in the past punched a drain hole -drained a tank then slodered in a brass pipe fitting and just use a brass pipe plug. I drill - and file the fitting so it doesn't protrudr too far from the botom of the tank. I use an old copper soldering iron with self tinning paste. Been doing it for many years on gas & deisel. The soldering iron won't produce sparks to ignite the fuel (unless its over heated) so it is a relitavely safe operation.

 

[smolkin]

I have in the past punched a drain hole -drained a tank then slodered in a brass pipe fitting and just use a brass pipe plug. I drill - and file the fitting so it doesn't protrudr too far from the botom of the tank. I use an old copper soldering iron with self tinning paste. Been doing it for many years on gas & deisel. The soldering iron won't produce sparks to ignite the fuel (unless its over heated) so it is a relitavely safe operation.

I have a torch and a tiny electric iron for electronics but nothing in between. I have never tried soldering brass to steel. Are these tanks thick enough to tap for a threaded plug or bolt? I have a Viton guy who can give me a washer to seal it.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Well, I have locking caps after an incident 2 yrs ago when someone siphoned my bio tank...I sincerely hope they put it into an '87 Honda Civic with a fartcan and $1000 of accessories from the Walmart automotive section and removed another one of those from existence. I don't think they'll try again, and they'll be getting more bio if they do!

Find or advertise for that guy, have him siphon the tanks again, then drop em, clean em out. Forget the bungs.

Hey Bill, didya find the tattoo?

 

[oldmisterbill]

You need at least a couple pound iron. I used to find them at yard sales. It takes a little practice but does a nice job. A bulkhead fiting would work but it would be a trick to get the nut inside. Hey a quick trip to OK would get one installed or 2 if needed

 

[dsltech83]

You could drill it out and use a bulkhead connector that seals with orings.

 

[Agnem]

My personal preference would be to bite the bullet and drop the tank. Remove the senders and then clean the tank out that way. Not only will you have a clean tank, but you will have checked your fuel pickups and had an opportunity to repair any issues you might see. You can also clean and paint the straps or any thing in the frame area that needs attention. Drilling a hole is just creating another maintanance headache down the road if you ask me.

 

[smolkin]

Find or advertise for that guy, have him siphon the tanks again, then drop em, clean em out. Forget the bungs.

I pumped them out, with a little hand pump, took way too long. And the Viton "guy" is not actually made of Viton...I found his shop by accident after I'd been to every hydraulics/ hose place in town looking for Viton olives and o-rings. The whole time he was right there on the same road as my go-to pump shop and favorite junkyard! (DeSirrah Dr in Mobile off W. I-65 Belt-- his shop is btwn Test Calibration and the Mobile Pull-A-Part) He said no one ever buys the Viton stuff for our trucks, and literally had drawers and drawers full of them. I never thought other people here would want them, but I can see if I can get a bunch to give out.

I'm thinking maybe I should just drop the tanks, then. Sigh. Just remembered how good it felt last time when the side tank fell on me...

 

[smolkin]

You could drill it out and use a bulkhead connector that seals with orings.

This was my first thought, but I figured that the tank is too thin and would cut into the rubber...you mean like, a boat bilge plug, right? Or some type that has a fatter part that seals from the inside? The whole idea was I didn't want to have to get inside the tank if I didn't have to.

 

[dsltech83]

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/;jsessionid=488618DC26C11567A549D22CEB5CD284.prlap564?R=1MKH8
One of these with a pipe plug in it. Or a ball valve if you want to get fancy.

 

[G. Mann]

I would strongly advise against putting a hole in your tank to drain it. Spend the same money to buy any kind of cheap electric pump and a few feet of fuel hose. Remove the quick disconnect at the top of the tank [yes you can reach it from the bottom] and slip the 5/16 rubber hose onto the nipple that sticks out. No need to clamp it, you are going to suck fuel, not pressurize it.

Wire up a couple extension leads and alligator clamps to the pump, put the exit hose in a clean fuel container, connect the pump to a battery and pump your tank empty. Safely. Takes about 20 minutes to set it all up and you have no leaks after.

The empty tank will drop easily and install easily.

Try it.. you will be glad you did. All the fear of dropping a tank for repair will go away.

If you really can't get to the pickup tube at top of the tank, tap into the tank selector valve connection to pump it down. [be ready with a drain pan on your chest there, it will drain by gravity all over you while you make that connection]

 

[smolkin]

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/;jsessionid=488618DC26C11567A549D22CEB5CD284.prlap564?R=1MKH8
One of these with a pipe plug in it. Or a ball valve if you want to get fancy.

This is awesome but pricey. It would still require getting inside the tank though. I have decided to drop the side tank and take my chances with just pumping out the rear. The hitch on this truck would make rear tank removal tough anyway. I will definitely be fabbing up a copy of that bulkhead fitting with a piece of pipe and some washers, nuts and Viton o-rings. $127 !?! Tell ya what, I'll sell anyone here my copy (about $5 in parts) for the low, low price of $126!

Also, I visited Viton Man. He no longer has olives but has inj cap o-rings for $.10 each. I can get bags of 100 if anyone wants some. Also, he's looking into getting non-reinforced Viton hose that could be cut into olive-sized pieces.

 

[SHARPIE]

DeSirrah Dr in Mobile off W. I-65 Belt-- his shop is btwn Test Calibration

Is the guy good?

I have done the pouch a hole in the tank trick then plugged it with a coarse 5/16 sheet metal screw with a rubber washer and then locked it in place with JB weld, Running out of gas (when I lived in the desert) sometimes you had to be creative to get to a gas station.12 years later and still no leaks.