A/C Question?

[Camarogenius]

Since my plans have changed, and it looks like I'm going to be keeping the 88, I've decided to get the air working. When I jump across the pressure switch plug, the compressor engages as it should,when I press on the schreader valve on the low side, I get some refrigerant escaping, but not much.
So, my question is this, would I be okay to just dump a couple cans of HC12A in it and call it good? I've tried to find someplace to evacuate the system, but noone will mess with it because it's the old R-12 system.
How much refrigerant does my truck hold in total?

 

[The Warden]

I think the truck holds between 2 and 3 lbs, but I don't remember for sure (my sticker's long-gone, and I fill my system until the pressure reads right).

As to putting HC12 in there...I wouldn't recommend it. Finding a shop that'll deal with R-12 isn't easy, but it will be flat-out impossible to find a shop that will even think of touching a system that's been contaminated with a non-standard freon. I'm surprised that you can't find a shop that'll deal with R-12; it's never been a problem for me even in the People's Republic of California. But, if you want to keep the R-12, you can get the proper license online and buy it. With the right equipment (a gauge set and a vacuum pump/recovery tank), it's really not all that difficult to work on the system yourself. I converted my system to R-134a because I can't afford to buy the R-12; otherwise, that's what I would have done...

Hope this may help a little bit. Good luck!!

 

[Camarogenius]

When I had the air re-done on my 85, They used HC12A, and I loved it.
The shop that did it for me is closed now. I'm not about to buy all that equipment and liscence just to fix my air. I'll sweat first.
Money spent on the 88 is money that could be spent on the Tremor.

 

[patternman]

I put R-134a in my 90 about a week ago, no drain no flush just dumped it in.
The thinking that everything must be changed over is slipping away as more people do the changover. They used to say everything including hoses had to be changed. The hoses for example they believed would leak because of the smaller molecules but now they have found that the oil sealed the hoses and they only require replacement if they were damaged to begin with. This is what the EPA currently says in the: Significant New Alternatives Policy (SNAP) Program
Least-Cost Aftermarket Retrofit

Many car owners may express interest in receiving a least-cost retrofit. Procedures required for a least-cost retrofit are simple and do not require major component changes. Generally, the process calls for removal of the old refrigerant, installation of new fittings and a new label, and the addition of either a polyalkylene glycol (PAG) or polyol ester (POE or ester) lubricant as well as the R-134a refrigerant. For many vehicles, this simple, least-cost retrofit should provide the vehicle owner either with a/c performance comparable to the R-12 system performance or with a/c performance that, although slightly reduced, is still sufficient to satisfy the customer. A least-cost retrofit, however, may not provide a satisfactory solution for certain vehicles.

Here is link to EPA site I copied that info from:
http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/technicians/retrguid.html
As I say I did it only a week ago but my air is cold! I'm not saying this will work for you but so far it has worked great for me. YMMV
EDIT: I did use 13oz cans of R-134a product that contained 2oz of oil and sealer that claimed to be compatible with r-12 residue.

 

[sle2115]

I put R-134a in my 90 about a week ago, no drain no flush just dumped it in.
The thinking that everything must be changed over is slipping away as more people do the changover. They used to say everything including hoses had to be changed. The hoses for example they believed would leak because of the smaller molecules but now they have found that the oil sealed the hoses and they only require replacement if they were damaged to begin with. This is what the EPA currently says in the: Significant New Alternatives Policy (SNAP) Program
Least-Cost Aftermarket Retrofit

Many car owners may express interest in receiving a least-cost retrofit. Procedures required for a least-cost retrofit are simple and do not require major component changes. Generally, the process calls for removal of the old refrigerant, installation of new fittings and a new label, and the addition of either a polyalkylene glycol (PAG) or polyol ester (POE or ester) lubricant as well as the R-134a refrigerant. For many vehicles, this simple, least-cost retrofit should provide the vehicle owner either with a/c performance comparable to the R-12 system performance or with a/c performance that, although slightly reduced, is still sufficient to satisfy the customer. A least-cost retrofit, however, may not provide a satisfactory solution for certain vehicles.

Here is link to EPA site I copied that info from:
http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/technicians/retrguid.html
As I say I did it only a week ago but my air is cold! I'm not saying this will work for you but so far it has worked great for me. YMMV
EDIT: I did use 13oz cans of R-134a product that contained 2oz of oil and sealer that claimed to be compatible with r-12 residue.

I have got three of them running this way. My wife's Sable died, frame broke, but it had about 70,000 on it with R134a done this way and I will tell you what, it made COLD air! I vacuumed the system to test for leak. You can buy an air powered (read air compressor) vacuum pump for $15 or so at Harbor Freight. Pull a vacuum and see if it leaks off. Cheaper than R134a. You can also use the R134a with stop leak, the kit I bought had one can of it and two cans of R134a with fitting, charge fitting and hose with gauge etc. All this was $35 or so. If you go the stop leak route (there is a reason your system is empty I would guess) make sure that if you ever have it professionally serviced you tell them. That stuff can and will gunk up a reclaimer and you will probably be the bearing the cost if it happens to get your vehicle back!!!