A Bunch of Misc. Questions I Need Help With!

[My9373]

Hey guys, so I'm trying to get Ol' Red prepped and mechanically ready for the factory turbo kit I'm buying from someone to install, but really want to make sure everything is ready on my truck for it, especially the parts that will be harder to replace once the turbo and all is installed.

1.) My glowplugs all need to be replaced, can't start my truck anymore unless it's been plugged in for an hour or was just recently running and still somewhat warm. Next week I have 8 new Motorcrafts coming in to install, but today I noticed a lot of the yellow-ish plastic pieces around the wires of the GPs are cracked, brittle and some broken too. Can these be replaced and how do I replace them? I know when I try to remove the GPs these are going to break too.

2.) I want to flush the radiator/cooling system soon, and just wanted a final answer on a good common antifreeze to use and how many gallons of antifreeze + water, I think I've heard 4gal each? And whats the proper method of flushing these, same as a gasser in which I can just put the garden hose in the highest point and run it till it's clear water, or is it different?

3.) I noticed while changing my serp. belt the other day that my fan has a little play/wobble to it, just a small back and forth motion and rather little, but I wasn't sure if any play in this is ok or not? If not, what's it mean?

4.) Anyone have a problem with a faulty fuel gauge before? My problem is with my truck running, on either tank, I get NO fuel reading on my gauge, needle reads empty, even with a good full tank. When I turn the truck off, needle rises to 1/4 tank, regardless how much gas I have. When I flick the tank select switch with key on/engine off, I hear a little "whirrr" sound which I'm told I should hear, so if the switch was bad, I would hear nothing, right? I already relplaced gauge/cluster, that's not the problem. So I thought, well maybe the sending unit? But since neither tank reads on the gauge, does that mean BOTH sending units are bad? Thats a rather suprising coincidence if so... What do you guys think is wrong with the system? I want this working soon, and definitely before the turbo goes in because I'll be burning up fuel like crazy playing around with the new turbo power. Not to mention it's just plain annoying not knowing how much fuel you have. I'm also so fed-up I'm tempted to take it to a garage, but wouldn't know who to go to for a fuel problem?

Thanks guys,

 

[gatorman21218]

I can answer 1 and 2.

1. Those yellow insulators are just that- insulators. All of mine are gone. The metal connector is what you have to look at and inspect. You can replace the whole connector with a crimp style "bullet" connector available whereever crimp connections are sold.

2. I assume flushing is just like any other vehicle. As far as the coolant, I use fleetcharge. It comes precharged with SCAs and is made for heavy duty diesel engines. Some Napas and most Tractor supply stores carry it. I would buy 5 gallons of each coolant and distilled water to be on the safe side. Never hurts to have extra.

4. It could be your floats have both filled up with fuel. but being happened at the same time im suspect of wiring faults somewhere. Start cleaning grounds and chasing wires from the tank to the gauge. And BTW both my fuel tank gauges are broken.

 

[My9373]

Gatorman- Thanks, so those insulators are not a necessary part in the GP system? because if not, I'll just work around them, and still soak my gps and the connectors with pb blaster the night before I replace the GPs. Thanks for the location to buy the coolant, I knew Fleet-something, haha. so get about 5gals each, and then should I add the coolant first, then water, or vice versa?

And with the guage thing, I HOPE it's not wiring, but I'm going to go through it and check to see if I find anything wrong. And it SUCKS not having a working fuel gauge, I wonder if there is a way to just bypass it and wire up a new gauge and just add it to my gauge pod, probably more reliable that way...

 

[gatorman21218]

As long as you have good contact with the wire and the plug, then the insulators are not needed. If it were me, I would clean all the old wires and place a dab of dielectric grease in it and then wrap any exposed connectors in electrical tape.

I would premix the coolant in a bucket, pour it back into the jugs and add it.

I know its a pain and ive looked into it but the senders are really a bad design and new ones aint cheap. Its most likely your senders and not your gauge. BUT its easier to check the gauge than it is to drop the tank and check the sender.

 

[gatorman21218]

As long as you have good contact with the wire and the plug, then the insulators are not needed. If it were me, I would clean all the old wires and place a dab of dielectric grease in it and then wrap any exposed connectors in electrical tape.

I would premix the coolant in a bucket, pour it back into the jugs and add it.

I know its a pain and ive looked into it but the senders are really a bad design and new ones aint cheap. Its most likely your senders and not your gauge. BUT its easier to check the gauge than it is to drop the tank and check the sender.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

I can't tell you how many times i see a flooded fuel float.

I replaced mine with some plastic floats.

 

[gatorman21218]

where do you get them?

 

[My9373]

Yeah I think I might just buy a new mid tank sender and bring it to a buddys shop to replace it. If it fixes it I know it was the sender/float issue and if not I know for sure then its a wiring problem.

For the gps im just going to do as you said replace them and add a little dielectric and wrap them good in elec. Tape and just go from there.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Spectra sells replacement floats for some vehicles, i remember looking through a catalog for them back when i worked in the parts stores and i had a few left over. They don't fit quite right so you gonna bend the circular end to fit it around the new float. BTW if its a wiring issue, the gauge will go peg out full.

Thats how you know if its a bad float, try unplugging the fuel tank selector switch and watch it go full. Also alot of times i can take the floats apart, drain them and reseal the little crack that developed in it with some fuel safe sealant and it works just fine. I did that once with a guy from the bronco forum, he had removed his sender so many times but didn't realize it sank.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Yeah I think I might just buy a new mid tank sender and bring it to a buddys shop to replace it. If it fixes it I know it was the sender/float issue and if not I know for sure then its a wiring problem.

For the gps im just going to do as you said replace them and add a little dielectric and wrap them good in elec. Tape and just go from there.

Take your front sender out since its the easiest to remove, i can get them out without even lifting the truck. Once its out sweep it! don;t waste your money on a new sender, they are over 100 bucks from ford.

 

[typ4]

I put two layers of heat shrink on the connectors, helps hold them tight, tape sucks.

 

[pt_Ranger_v8]

If both your fuel gauges aren't reading, I would look at either the switching valve, or the wires between the cluster and the switching valve.

 

[My9373]

Thanks guys for all the tips, this week im going to look into it all, thoroughly check the wiring because another forum also said the fsv is probably my problem, but I hate electrical problems. As easy as it is to fix a broken wire or plug back in a plug, id rather lower the tank and replace the float.

Itsacrazyasian- thanks for that helpful info that was what I was looking for. Since my needle reads past empty, my wiring should be ok, right? And when I unplug the switch to test should the truck be running or just key on?

I think im going to go down to Harbor Freight and buy one of those aluminum racing floor jacks the low profile one because they have a REALLY wide support piece, then get a holesaw the size of that support and cut a hole about a 1/4" deep in a piece of 2x10 or something wide to lower the tank securely without lifting the truck.

Any more advice and experience is really appreciate, anything to know especially when dropping the tank? Its straightforward but you never know.

 

[My9373]

Thanks guys for all the tips, this week im going to look into it all, thoroughly check the wiring because another forum also said the fsv is probably my problem, but I hate electrical problems. As easy as it is to fix a broken wire or plug back in a plug, id rather lower the tank and replace the float.

Itsacrazyasian- thanks for that helpful info that was what I was looking for. Since my needle reads past empty, my wiring should be ok, right? And when I unplug the switch to test should the truck be running or just key on?

I think im going to go down to Harbor Freight and buy one of those aluminum racing floor jacks the low profile one because they have a REALLY wide support piece, then get a holesaw the size of that support and cut a hole about a 1/4" deep in a piece of 2x10 or something wide to lower the tank securely without lifting the truck.

Any more advice and experience is really appreciate, anything to know especially when dropping the tank? Its straightforward but you never know.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

the front tank you don't need to drop the fuel tank to remove the sender. Crawl under, unplug harness connector and remove quick disconnect fuel lines.

Take a flathead screwdriver and hammer and beat the retaining ring off and remove sender. It might take a bit of twisting and fanageling to get it out but it will come out of the tank without dropping it. You will know if you're wiring is good if you have the tank selected to the front and you unplug it and the gauge goes to full. Key on engine off. UNless you like working by a hot exhaust.

I am gonna bet that your float sank.