93 F350 Crewcab with ZF5

[yowen]

Well I have yet another truck to run by you guys, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the input your guys are able to give me on these! Sad thing is I will probably have 10x more questions when i do pick up a truck, hahaha.

I am thinking about checking this thing out, its less than an hour away from me.

It is a F350 Crewcab with ZF5, needs vacuum pump for brakes.

1) This shouldn't be too hard or expensive I think?

2) Would the ZF5 get pretty decent mileage?

3) The tricky part is the odometer "does not light up" so I am not sure if I'd ever be able to know the mileage on this thing?
He assumes it has over 200k, he is selling because he got a "super duty".

4) Has AC but "doubt it works" can this be fixed for a decent price usually?

5) I think I'd be able to pick this thing up for $1500 or less. What do you guys think?

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edit: figured I'd number my question to bring some structure to this post, lol.

 

[hesutton]

I'd have a good look at it before you buy it. Seems the fella wasn't too keen on maintainence. The ZF's are generally good transmissions. However, if abused, reverse can pop out of gear or be nonfunctional. I had to replace the reverse synchro, slider and gear on my used ZF5 to the tune of $800.

Vaccum pumps are relatively cheap and easy to replace, but you want to know there isn't other issues in the vaccum system (missing/broken hoses, bad booster, and so on). AC compressor/condensors aren't cheap by any means. If those parts are needed, fixing AC will take a bite out of your wallet.

Never owned an IDI that "new" so I can't help you with the odometer issue.

What happend to the floor mat?


Not sure if you've seen it, but there is a great article in the IDI tech section that specifically addresses the things to look for when buying a used IDI.


Heath

 

[yowen]

Thanks heath, I will definitely give that article a read, maybe even print before I go see it.

At $1500 I am not kidding myself here, I am expecting some problems with it.

The guy says he thinks there is at least 200,000 on it because "it has a new clutch on it".

 

[yowen]

just got a text, he'd take $1300 without the bumpers or the rack on it. I'd rather have stock bumpers anyway.

It bluebooks at 200,000 miles fair $703, good $1200.

I am really curious if you guys think i can somehow still get mileage number off of this thing.

 

[hesutton]

At $1500, you are definately getting into the rig pretty cheap. You've got room to fix/improve things without feeling like you're sinking a ton of cash into it. Another thing, once you've got if functional and on the road, you can take your time to fix the "little" things that aren't needed to keep it drivable, things you want fixed (like the AC).

Heath

 

[subway]

you are looking at about 100 for a vacuum pump and about 1/2hr to 1hr worth of work to install, just make sure you use a power steering pully puller to get the pulley off!

the body does not look bad rust wise and that is a huge plus if its true, i cant crawl underneath and look though.

i am not expert but i have pieced together a system and added ac to my 94 and it still works great 3 years later. anyway it is not hard to get parts in yards around here and the dryer is not to bad to buy. ac work can be a real crap shoot though it might just need some charge or you could have a shot compressor that sent shrapnel through the system. if you cannot get it to work at all you have to assume the worst, you could get in 4-500 easy if you do all the work yourself.

the body to bed alignment looks off.......also check the radiator support mounts, common for rust and not a real easy fix

i would insist on seeing it cold start, make sure they didnt warm it up for you. a good cold start can tell you alot, get it up to temp and drive it around some. at that miliage it boils down to how well it runs more than is it 190k or 240k.

besides that alot of the usual check fluids stuff, crew cabs are great and i love the room in mine, turning is the hard part. sounds like the guy is not being real up front though with any problems and is going to let you find them so look closely. 1500 does not sounds like a bad price if it checks out though.

 

[hesutton]

Gotta have some sort of bumper on the front. I'd see if you can get the bumper and let him keep the rack. You could sell the bumper to offset the cost of a stock bumper.

Again, I wish I could help you with the odo, but my "new" IDI is still and '86.

Heath

 

[Iowa 73]

Tell him $1000 and he can keep the rack. Unknown mileage and known brake issues: these are negotiating points. Show up with cash, and be prepared to walk.

 

[Agnem]

Just understand that your buying a maintainance defered vehicle. And in so doing, a financially defered vehicle. Meaning that rather than paying for a $6000 or $7000 truck, you are just obtaining it for what is in essence a deposit. It reminds me a lot of the Scarlet Moose (now the Iron Moose) when we first got it. It was an $1100 truck, with a broken everything. The only good part in it was the engine and trans. So far it has recieved:

New tires
New Radiator
Rebuilt rear axle
rebuilt front axle (new king pins, tie rods, etc)
new bushings throughout.
new U-joints
new center bearing
new glow plugs
new glow plug controller
body problems corrected (welding required, parking brake pushed through the floor, bed cracked)
replacement tailgate
new tailgate straps
new power steering pump
new brake booster
new master cylinder
new parking brake cables
new batteries
new starter
replacement steering column
replacement radio
replacement rear window
new exhaust (including Y pipe)
new shocks
tons of clean up including removing lots of old wire that didn't go anywhere, repairing minor things, power door locks, windows, replacing broken switches, light bulbs, etc.
New paint job
Probably over 150 hours in this truck.
Now it looks like this and is as reliable as when it rolled of the lot.....

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You CAN polish a ****!

 

[yowen]

Gotta have some sort of bumper on the front. I'd see if you can get the bumper and let him keep the rack. You could sell the bumper to offset the cost of a stock bumper.

Again, I wish I could help you with the odo, but my "new" IDI is still and '86.

Heath

Whats your reasoning for having to have a bumper up front?

 

[yowen]

you are looking at about 100 for a vacuum pump and about 1/2hr to 1hr worth of work to install, just make sure you use a power steering pully puller to get the pulley off!

the body does not look bad rust wise and that is a huge plus if its true, i cant crawl underneath and look though.

i am not expert but i have pieced together a system and added ac to my 94 and it still works great 3 years later. anyway it is not hard to get parts in yards around here and the dryer is not to bad to buy. ac work can be a real crap shoot though it might just need some charge or you could have a shot compressor that sent shrapnel through the system. if you cannot get it to work at all you have to assume the worst, you could get in 4-500 easy if you do all the work yourself.

the body to bed alignment looks off.......also check the radiator support mounts, common for rust and not a real easy fix

i would insist on seeing it cold start, make sure they didnt warm it up for you. a good cold start can tell you alot, get it up to temp and drive it around some. at that miliage it boils down to how well it runs more than is it 190k or 240k.

besides that alot of the usual check fluids stuff, crew cabs are great and i love the room in mine, turning is the hard part. sounds like the guy is not being real up front though with any problems and is going to let you find them so look closely. 1500 does not sounds like a bad price if it checks out though.

Is the body-to-bed alignment easily fixed? Could it be related to it sitting on the low tire?

Should I bring some sort of coolant test strip? Is there anything I can tell from the oil without having it tested?

The crew cab does look nice and roomy.

I've actually never driven a 5 spd manual diesel truck and its been YEARS since I've driven anything manual (unless you count atv's). So that'll be interesting, haha.

 

[yowen]

Yes, I've seen your truck in a number of posts, it looks very nice! I am hoping to be able to polish this from a **** to a "nice looking old truck".

Just understand that your buying a maintainance defered vehicle. And in so doing, a financially defered vehicle. Meaning that rather than paying for a $6000 or $7000 truck, you are just obtaining it for what is in essence a deposit. It reminds me a lot of the Scarlet Moose (now the Iron Moose) when we first got it. It was an $1100 truck, with a broken everything. The only good part in it was the engine and trans. So far it has recieved:

New tires
New Radiator
Rebuilt rear axle
rebuilt front axle (new king pins, tie rods, etc)
new bushings throughout.
new U-joints
new center bearing
new glow plugs
new glow plug controller
body problems corrected (welding required, parking brake pushed through the floor, bed cracked)
replacement tailgate
new tailgate straps
new power steering pump
new brake booster
new master cylinder
new parking brake cables
new batteries
new starter
replacement steering column
replacement radio
replacement rear window
new exhaust (including Y pipe)
new shocks
tons of clean up including removing lots of old wire that didn't go anywhere, repairing minor things, power door locks, windows, replacing broken switches, light bulbs, etc.
New paint job
Probably over 150 hours in this truck.
Now it looks like this and is as reliable as when it rolled of the lot.....

You must be registered for see images

You CAN polish a ****!

 

[93fordturbo]

I believe its illegal not too have some sort of a bumper. Plus extra protection and it loss like sh$# without one

 

[yowen]

Tell him $1000 and he can keep the rack. Unknown mileage and known brake issues: these are negotiating points. Show up with cash, and be prepared to walk.

That sounds like a good plan, if he wants more I'll fish a few twenties out of my wallet, lol.

 

[hesutton]

I believe its illegal not too have some sort of a bumper.

True in most states, but the bigger issue is.... these trucks use the front bumper as a stressed member of the frame. It can mess with the alignment of the front axle/tires and over time (in theory) permanently tweek the frame and the radiator support as it takes up more stress from the frame with no bumper.

Heath