911 - What am I overlooking???

janos1

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I have been fervently wrenching on this truck for four days! I have bled everythingfrom top to bottom. Removed the GP's and checked them in person. Re hooked the GP controller and it works fine. Swapped out the IP and put new return lines on. The FSS is clicking, and it seems to be in order. I have white smoke out the tailpipe. I cycle the GP's a couple times to get the temp right. It seems to want to start, (It has a stumble when turning it over) I'm at a loss. I got nothing else.. Whats wrong?!?
 

forcefed

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Are you getting plenty of fuel from your fuel pump. Maybe timing is way off if you are getting fuel. White smoke I think your timing may be to far retarded. Others will chime in on that.
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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You've got fuel, check your pressure and make sure its enough. Ideally you want it between 4-6psi. 3psi will fire it off but it will only run for a second before crapping out.
I'm gonna bet your timing is off since you've changed IP. Its very easy to skip a tooth and it will sputter along but wont run.
 

david85

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Small amounts of white vapor or mist is raw fuel.

Has the injector pump drive gear been removed?

How long are your glow plugs comming on for?

Try plugging in the block heater for a few hours and see if that helps.
 

jperecko

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how about starter and batteries? I was struggling with the same issues and it turns out the starter was not turning fast enough- 2 new batts solved that.
 

janos1

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I robbed the IP, starter and injectors off a running motor. Which fired up instantly. I brought both to TDC and made the switch. As best as I can tell it went back togather correctly. the timing mark was on "0". and when the inspection covor was removed the pin was at aprox 4 o'clock. The two bolts on top were at a level position. I can usually judge things like that well. The tach says it is turning over about 200 rpm.

Just for S&G's I put a hair drier to the intake on F**king hot and still no luck. AAaaaaghhh-cuss
 

janos1

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how about starter and batteries? I was struggling with the same issues and it turns out the starter was not turning fast enough- 2 new batts solved that.

The two in the hole are hot. Also during all the effort it was also hooked to the running grocery getter.
 

icanfixall

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You have not answered yet about the injection pump gear cover being removed or not. Just because you have it at top dead center on number 1 makes no differance. The timing really sounds like its retarded. My motor after a complete overhaul started up way retarded and sounded like a peterbult liteing off. I timed it and it sounded much better. Turn the injection pump towards the passenger fender about 1/8 of an inch... But not more than that. I use a center punch and make a mark between the pump and the gear housing. Then as it turns the punch mark will tell you how much its moved... Mel told me about this mark method. You could also darg it and pop the clutch to get it started.... The 200 rpm is actually turning over slow. My motor starts so fast that you can't count the rpm when starting. I have a gear reduction starter.
 

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Yea I was thinking the 200rpm is actually really slow too. I think my brown truck cranks the tach almost 800rpm, but it started so fast I never got a real good reading.
I mark the hell out of my timing covers. Marks for every point the center of the bolt heads should be at and a big one for the dowel pin as well as taking an engraving tool and marking a cross section on the gear. All to help me guide that gear down into the timing plate and engage the proper cam gear tooth. If its one tooth off it will never run right.
 

dyoung14

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200 Rpm is the minimum cranking speed, It kinda sounds like you didnt get the gear set back right if you pulled the injection pump gear cover, which you dont have to pull that to change the ip, if it was mine and i dont recomend this to you! but i would give her a little snort of ether but not using glow plugs! and if it didnt run then i would stop and begin to pull the front cover off the engine and get the gear timing right, i dont recomend you using ether cause i dont want you to risk anything happening to your motor, if it was mine thats what i would do,
 

janos1

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You have not answered yet about the injection pump gear cover being removed or not..

I took the entire timing cover off the old motor with the IP attached as an assembly so I wouldn't loose the timing off the pump. I will try to advance the pump to see if that works. I have a gear reduction starter on it. The RPM was a guesstimate, as taken fromt he tach. It could be and inaccurate reading at this point. I took the batteries, starter and cables from the parts truck.
 

gonecrazyi

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So you didnt remove the entire timing cover from your motor? Taking the pump off of the gear will not lose the pump timing, this happens when the timing gear us moved. The pump has a tooth on the front of it that lines up with the timing gear. This ensures that its in the proper position as long as the gears lined up correctly.
 

icanfixall

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Sorry to state this but your not being very clear as to what you have done. I do understand you removed the pump and gear cover from the donor motor... But did you place that pump and gear cover on the motor that wont start??? If you did that then you probably misplaced the gear timing. Even if you had the motor set at top dead center you may have the motor timing 180 degrees out of time. The only way you can tell the motor is a tdc is to remove the valve cover and watch the valves open and close. There is a way to determine the timing on the injection pump gear and the cam gear when you remove the gear cover but lets not go there just yet till you confirm what you did.
 

sootman73

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wait you took the gear cover off the other motor!? and you said that motor was a good running motor on a previous post? thats not good. now its gonna be real fun getting both motors set right again..................
 

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