89 CC build thread Frame off resto!! - Bad Idea

[junk]

I highly recommend the Lizard skin. Really a nice product. Like any paint product thought you gotta watch your drying times. To put the last 4 coats of skin on the cab it took me 4 nights. Every evening I would go out and spray another coat. Only took about 45 minutes a coat from when I started spraying until I was cleaned up. I didn't have enough time in the evening to spray multiple coats. It was probably a couple hour dry time.

I like simple color schemes. I like custom cars and stuff that you look at and can tell they are custom, but not sure exactly how. This is the color scheme I would buy a newer truck in. I just don't want the payments of a newer truck. Hell even a used truck for 15-20K around here has around 100K miles. And that doesn't get you a king ranch. Just a superduty crewcab lariat. Sharp, but not that sharp.

Planning to head out later tonight and work on my cab sanding and priming. With any luck I can put color on tomorrow evening!!

 

[junk]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Well I haven't updated this for a while, but I have been working on it and stuff to aid in this.

the Cab is pretty much ready for seal and paint. Because of recoat windows and such I won't seal the cab until I'm ready to paint also. I was nervous about putting a painted cab on the frame. So we set the cab on the frame for painting. It will make painting a the roof a little harder, but not that bad. Hoping to paint the roof this friday. Then mask off the roof and paint the sides, doors, door hinges, and door bolts saturday night. Then we'll work on installing the doors.

I also picked up some new paint and primer guns for this. I've worked on this for so long I wanted to make sure my prime gun and paint gun were up to the task. I'd also had some trouble priming because my tip was too small in my gun. these are both Devilbliss guns. Primer is a Finish line 3 with 1.8 and 2.2 tips. The other is a Tekna Copper with 1.2 and 1.3 tips.

And since I have all the door hinges off and bead blasted figured now was the time to put bushings in all of them. I was working on that last night. Sure enough two hinges use a slightly smaller bushing so I couldn't get them done. I'm going to drill the hole out in them so that they use the same bushing as all the rest of the hinges. I also bought strikers for my front doors as those were broken.

Before I paint I still have to block out all the doors as they don't have any surface primer on them yet. And I need to finish up my hinge rebuild and find all my door bolts so I can cook the paint off the them and get them all stuck in cardboard awaiting prime and paint. It's the details that take a lot of time.

Oh and I did a little fun too on front doors. I put 92 up paddle mirrors on them and removed the mounts for the old style mirrors that have 2 mounting points. I also added the keyless entry from a 2000 ford explorer to the drivers door. I've had the brain working in my truck for years with the keyless remote, but wanted the keypad also. The keypads are handy for going to parks, or fairs or whatever so people can get into the truck without the keys.

 

[Keeway]

looks like its comin along real good

 

[junk]

Yeah It is getting there. I can't decide if I'm slow or picky and I'm guessing it's a lot of both.

And of course there are a million other things that end up taking time. I was moving trees with the tractor and broke the loader so now that's getting reworked. All new hoses, a filter and welding up the loader frame. I also was getting a fair amount of water out of my compressor so I built a desiccant drier system. It seems to be working. I wanted it working and tried with air tools before I tried it with paint. Pretty typical for me I end up with a lot of irons in the fire.

 

[freebird01]

Yeah It is getting there. I can't decide if I'm slow or picky and I'm guessing it's a lot of both.

And of course there are a million other things that end up taking time. I was moving trees with the tractor and broke the loader so now that's getting reworked. All new hoses, a filter and welding up the loader frame. I also was getting a fair amount of water out of my compressor so I built a desiccant drier system. It seems to be working. I wanted it working and tried with air tools before I tried it with paint. Pretty typical for me I end up with a lot of irons in the fire.

amen brother...preachin to the choir

I'm the same way....although I'm hoping to get my frame rolling again by the end of the weekend if possible.

 

[junk]

Yeah being a do-it-yourselfer is a blessing and a curse. Once they are a roller they are a lot more fun. Frames hard to maneuver when it doesn't roll especially when it's painted and you have to be careful.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Dude that is gonna be sweet when you get it finished.




Even tho its not blue.

 

[89dieselbko]

Truck is looking very nice... would love to get an older CC LB to restore. Having 6 vehicles currently and my bronco torn to pieces getting a NA 7.3 swap, i dont think my wife would let me even think about starting to look for yet another project.... still got an 88 monte carlo SS sitting in the garage... i must say tho, in regards to the lizard skin.... I put it on said monte on the interior and roof only, im running a 383 stroker, true dual with glass packs. the amount of sound that it cancels is amazing. I put about 3k miles on the motor before the interior restoration, and about 8 on since, and its night and day, i cant speak for the insulation part, i used it as well but the car dont have AC, and it only get driven when its nice out with the windows down, and honestly couldnt tell the difference in floorboard heat.

TLR Awesome build, Lizard skin is the shizz

 

[junk]

Glad to hear another satisfied Lizard skin customer. Lizard skin is expensive, but I never hear anything bad about it. It just flat out works. I'm anxious to see if it makes a big difference. I don't see how it couldn't,

dog catcher I was looking at your pictures showing your rebuild of goldilocks. You did some pretty serious floor surgery there. Makes my little hole patching a walk in the park. Funny how the name stuck even thought the original color didn't! Not quite sure if I'll ever get it finished, but I'm pushing.

When I was repining all the door hinges I hit a bit of a snag. Two hinges from the rear doors don't use the same bushing. The bushings in 6 of the 8 hinges measure out at .480". The other 2 door hinge bushings measure out at about .415" on the OD. The pins are the same only the bushings are different. A little drill bit action and maybe some filing will fix this, but I thought it was interesting. If 6 all use the same bushing why not the last 2?

 

[freebird01]

maybe they were swapped for a different year hinge?

 

[junk]

Yeah I was wondering if maybe they were used on some other ford vehicle that was metric or something? I am amazed at how many parts of this truck are metric and standard. You end up running around with both sets of tools to get it torn apart.

 

[89dieselbko]

Yeah I was wondering if maybe they were used on some other ford vehicle that was metric or something? I am amazed at how many parts of this truck are metric and standard. You end up running around with both sets of tools to get it torn apart.

I had this on my 89 BKO as well as my 90 parts F250... it seems every other bolt is metric/standard couldnt find and rime or reason to it

 

[War Wagon]

It would be great to see more on the keyless remote and key pad. I don't know how in depth that gets. But if I could do it clean like it was factory I would be really interested in doing it. The key pad looks good where you placed it. Looks like a factory option.

 

[sassyrel]

It would be great to see more on the keyless remote and key pad. I don't know how in depth that gets. But if I could do it clean like it was factory I would be really interested in doing it. The key pad looks good where you placed it. Looks like a factory option.

AGREE TOTALLY!!!!!!!!!!! im sure, if the cost wasnt too high,,there would be a lot of guys,who would do this to there trucks,,as the original remote was not common until 99.............and it seems to me,,on the trucks ive owned,the locks like to freeze up continually,,in spite of anything i tried..

 

[junk]

I figured out last night that the front door bolts are metric and the rear door bolts are standard. why? doesn't make much sense to me.

I don't have schematics of the door lock stuff right now. I know I was able to wire it all up in the drivers door. I wired mine so that when you hit the unlock button it did all the doors. In the ford explorers 1 press does the drivers door and 2 presses does all the doors.

The brain box in the explorers is in the drivers side rear panel in the area where the jack mounts. I grabbed that box, keyless remotes, and the keypad off of a vehicle. Remember to grab all the plugs.

If I remember the box is pretty simple it has like +-12v wires, drivers door unlock, all unclock, all lock and then the keypad wires on the plug. So I pulled 12 volts off the door lock circuit in the door and then wired in a couple relays between the lock and unlock wires from the unit. Basically when the keyless unit hits the relays bypass the switch in the door. Then the wiring for the keypad.

The factory keypad code number is on a sticker on the box. Sometimes the sticker is missing or hard to read. So if you have options grab a brain box with a good code sticker. The code is 5 digits if I remember correctly.

I can post pictures and stuff later of how it's installed and give more detail on the wiring. It's all wired up still in my original drivers door that is in storage. It was a pretty simple install once I got the parts and got a wiring diagram from the ford dealer.

I thought that placement worked OK. Needed to make sure it misses the window stuff and the door lock bars running from the door handle and lock.