86 6.9l water pump

[IDIBRONCO]

weather or not to use sealer.
the old gasket had molecullarly bonded with the block

They sure do seem to do that. I'm at the point that I use a thin layer of RTV on both sides of the gasket. It's NOT for sealing purposes. It's because it makes gasket clean up MUCH easier the next time.

 

[grumpy1]

i finally got everything buttoned up and no leaks ... so far.
the manual says to use sealer on the two top and two bottom bolts.
what do these bolts open in to?

 

[Philip1]

i finally got everything buttoned up and no leaks ... so far.
the manual says to use sealer on the two top and two bottom bolts.
what do these bolts open in to?

They go straight through the timing cover and is exposed to oil

 

[Stu Bailey]

I take it you used one? I've been considering one myself.

Yes sir. When my pump went out I posted on here about it and one of the members, I can’t remember who, recommended them. When I called the shop and asked about my pump the lady was so kind and helping that I was sold immediately. When the pump actually came I can see the craftsmanship right away. I think they make them in Southern California?
I was fortunate enough to have access to a shop that had a pneumatic fan clutch wrench and it made things so much easier.

 

[grumpy1]

things did not go as well as i would have hoped.
the two bottom bolts that i believe are threaded inserts in the timing cover were bad.
both were barely snug when i took them out.
when i put them back one snugged up and one was almost no resistance.
i drove the truck a few times and had no leaks but today it blew.
i'm looking at pulling the timing cover to make some kind of repairs.
as always i'm asking for your experience and suggestions.

 

[TNBrett]

There are nuts welded on to the back side of the cover. If the nut is loose, be very careful. I don’t think you want it falling into the oil pan you may end up having to remove the cover with the pump still attached.

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The pic is from my junk engine parts pile.

 

[Cubey]

Also, if you pull the fan and pump with the radiator still mounted then you might want to tape a piece of cardboard across the backside of the rad just to protect those delicate fins. One slip with the fan and it's new radiator time.

This.

I made sure I had cardboard large enough to protect the radiator because it seems like the fan is much closer on a van chassis than on trucks. The fan hit against the cardboard a time or two... so.. yeah.

 

[Philip1]

If you find the threads damaged, a helicoil works well to repair it

 

[IDIBRONCO]

As for advice, I'll say that first off, it's not as bad to do as people make it out to be. Since you've already changed the water pump, you've already done the majority of the work. If any of the welded nuts seem to be loose, you can weld them on better since the plate will already be off. I'll also add that you do not have to remove the IP gear housing. You can slip the cover out of the bottom by sliding the bottom of the cover away from the block and then dropping the cover down as you're pulling it free. To reinstall it, just reverse the steps.

 

[grumpy1]

i got everything stripped and ready to pull the timing cover.
i now see that the timing cover is tucked in under the ip gear cover.
i'm guessing that has to be at least loosened to get the timing cover off.
am i on the right track?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

i'm guessing that has to be at least loosened to get the timing cover off.

No. Don't loosen the cover bolts. That may cause a leak that you need to remove the cover in order to fix. This is where the "dropping the cover down while you're removing it" that I mentioned comes into play. Once you get the cover to break the seal that it has at the bottom, move the bottom away from the block and pull down on the whole thing in order to have it slip out of the groove in the IP housing. It will be stuck in there with sealer so you will have to make it come out, but it will come out.

 

[grumpy1]

well using a few cold chisels and a couple of crowbars i got it off
i'm pretty sure i can hammer it back flat
it was as i expected the two bottom nuts are stripped
now i'm waiting on a seal and gaskets
there was rtv on the oil pan and ip gear cover and just gasket elsewhere
is that what is best to go back with?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Go back with exactly what was there before. RTV and gaskets in the same places.

 

[aggiediesel01]

Make sure the rtv you use is rated for diesel oil. I always use the motorcraft TA-31 product but others use one of the permatex gray products. If it’s not formulated to be compatible with diesel and diesel oils, then it swells over time and starts to leak.

 

[grumpy1]

the two bottom welded nuts on the timing cover are stripped.
if i use helicoils to repair these i'm thinking i should use locktite to make sure they stay in place.
and then use a sealer on the bolts.