85 6.9 no crank no start rpms pegged to max

John Hirsch

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Hi all,

New to the forum but I’ve been lurking since 2014 when I got my ‘85. Usually I’m able to find what I need on here without posting but this one I can’t figure out.

It’s an 85 F250 6.9 4x4 with a 4 speed.

I use it on my farm with occasional road driving usually between fields. Before this it was an excavating company yard truck for a number of years.

I barely used it in 2018. Maybe until August when one day after loading it up in the field I went to start it to drive it back to the barn I just got a couple clicks and then the battery died. So my wife towed me back with a tractor.

I tried starting it once the season was over about a month ago. Couple clicks and the lights dimmed then it seemed like the battery was losing charge really quickly. Put a jumper on it, got that rapid clicking like the batteries were going dead. Lights all dimmed and the tachometer shot up to max. Then I couldn’t get it to click or anything.

Today my dad was giving me a hand tinkering with it and when I was jiggleing random wires the tach went down to zero. Only when the tach is at zero does it click, otherwise it does nothing with the key in the start position but dim the lights. So I was thrilled that we sorta narrowed it down. Traced the issue down to one of the wires coming off the starter relay? Not the one on the side of the fender but the one on top of the wheel well that has the little plastic job on it that says “do not start.” Pulled the one maroon? wire off it and the tach would jump to max, put it back on and the tach went down to zero. At max turning the key just made the lights dim but didn’t click or anything.

When turning the key it clicked rapidly. So we put the jumper box back on thinking maybe it just needed a bit more juice to kick over the starter. With the jumper box on it just clicked rapidly and then the tach shot back up to max. Tried taking that wire on and off again and it still stayed pegged to max. Checked all connections, cleaned a lot of sludge and corrosion. No such luck.

That’s where we’re at. Going to see what my mechanic thinks on Wednesday when he’s back from the holiday weekend. Don’t want to sink a lot of time and money into it. It’s a beat up old rig that I want to put a dump bed on this winter if I can get this figured out.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again everyone!!
 

IDIBRONCO

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The relay on top of the wheel well is not a starter relay. It's your glow plug relay. I'm no electrical genius, but it sounds to me like it may be shorted out inside and draining the batteries. Unless someone says that I'm full of it, I'd try replacing it, charging your batteries fully, and seeing what it does then. Also welcome Long Time Lurker.;Poke
 

austin92

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Run 12v to the signal wire on the solenoid, If nothing happens, jump the 2 large terminals with heavy gauge wire or a tool with an insulated handle. That can help rule out the solenoid and the starter.

Tach sounds like a ground issue.

Have you put a multimeter on the batteries?


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Clb

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try these..
Dead short to ground, weak ground
Bad g.p.r.
Fubared ign switch, bad key linkage down the collumn
 

Stu Bailey

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About 90% positive it's your voltage regulator. Exact same thing just happened on my 86 6.9 and it was the vr. Bought a new one from summit for 33 dollars.
 

John Hirsch

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Thanks everyone for their responses.
I’m going to try everything today and let you know what worked or didn’t.

John
 

John Hirsch

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Just wanted to update.

Had a buddy hold a multimeter to the batteries when cranking. With a jumper box on one battery and his car with jumper cables on the other the voltage was reading 12.5 on both, which is too low for good batteries, and dropping down to 4 when cranking. After messing with the glow plug relay and making sure all wiring in that area was fully connected (which meant cutting out two connectors and replacing them with solderless connectors) I am now getting consistent clicking when key is in the starter position, and tach is at 0.

I think for now my next goal is to get 2 known good batteries in there and see what happens. After that I’ll start replacing parts.

Thanks again everyone.
 

austin92

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Is it clicking on and off repeatedly? That’s a bad relay. 4v is definitely too low, I don’t think good batteries drop below 8v while cranking


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icanfixall

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Being a standard trans why not pull start it??? My guess is the ignition switch finally failed.
 
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