83 tank selection valve. Updating to type with round pins rather than flat.

CrippledEagle

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Okay I searched the archives and didn’t find a solution although I did gain knowledge so thank you!
My 83 F250 is not switching tanks and the dash switch while functional is not making the tank switch work. This switch is the older one with the flat pins which are almost non findable. I am hoping that someone has experienced this and found a solution. The ones listed as replacements for mine are built to sit at an angle with the lines interfering with the frame. Does anyone know where a 6 port valve assembly with the round pins that sits flat can be found?
I know that I COULD build a bracket, but I am old, tired, retired and get vertigo so probably no.
I put a later one on my 84 one ton bye using a round pin valve and plug but it was a real task and many foul words escaped my mouth. Just trying to avoid a repeat.
Thank You in advance!
 

Cubey

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Okay I searched the archives and didn’t find a solution although I did gain knowledge so thank you!
My 83 F250 is not switching tanks and the dash switch while functional is not making the tank switch work. This switch is the older one with the flat pins which are almost non findable. I am hoping that someone has experienced this and found a solution. The ones listed as replacements for mine are built to sit at an angle with the lines interfering with the frame. Does anyone know where a 6 port valve assembly with the round pins that sits flat can be found?
I know that I COULD build a bracket, but I am old, tired, retired and get vertigo so probably no.
I put a later one on my 84 one ton bye using a round pin valve and plug but it was a real task and many foul words escaped my mouth. Just trying to avoid a repeat.
Thank You in advance!

A piece of wedge of wood as a spacer would work. It doesn't have to hold up much weight, after all. Or even just uneven stack of washers between the valve and frame.
 

Cubey

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This switch is not original either. I have never installed one, so i do not know how much cussing is needed to get it in place.

https://www.amazon.com/Selector-Diesel-replaces-6C3Z9189A-6c3z-9189/dp/B07H39L56B

The switch is fine, you just have to chop off the factory valve wire connector and splice in the new one. Haynes manuals have the pinouts for the wires.

There's 5 wires:

Positive & negative power wires (coming from the switch), one leading to the gauge, one for front sending unit, one for rear sending unit.

This is the valve they have been selling for awhile that does require some cussing.

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-deliv...el-tank-selector-valve-fsv2/18894_686940_5320

That's used on some older vehicles, like my RV. My F250 has the grey one.

Here it is with the harness and the switch, but again you don't need to change the switch.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...50-econoline?q=fuel+tank+selector+valve&pos=1

Wiring: http://products.pollakaftermarket.com/Asset/42-159 IS_41-revdd.pdf
 
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aggiediesel01

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Does anyone know where a 6 port valve assembly with the round pins that sits flat can be found?

Recently the later version used on the 87-97 trucks has been offered on E-bay for pretty reasonable. The connector uses flat pins but may have to be swapped or repinned but the lines should be in the correct orientation to the frame. The later fuel line connectors are different but I believe you can still stuff your rubber hoses on them and use a hose clamp just like they are installed now.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...sacat=0&_odkw=f250+diesel+tank+selector+valve
 
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