7.3t Oil Leak, #7 Injector Return Line Won't Seal..?

[robw]

The turbo leaks oil, and appears to badly. Tips, suggestions? It also seems to leak exhaust when the throttle is snapped, from behind the turbo.

There is also what appears to be oil coming directly out of the exhaust. Subtle white smoke on idle, although there is definitely air intrusion so I'm not as concerned about that yet.

The #7 injector return line WILL NOT SEAL... new o-rings, new tee, assembled with silicon paste... twice... still leaks! ***? Fuel isn't coming up from the injector, but from the Tee.

Thanks all for your time and wisdom!

Sorry for repeating myself, if not allowed please delete - just trying to grab attention, this is leaving me scratching my head - I have a certain ability, but without understanding can do nothing.

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[Thewespaul]

The return cap is leaking because the lines are pushing on it. You need to shorten the line a bit between 7 and 5, and put a 90* elbow on the crossover line so it’s not resting against anything, you want it to be lined up the same as the other caps. What kind of o rings are you using?

If you have oil coming out the exhaust, it’s time to get the turbo rebuilt, oil on the intake side is normal with our cdr setups, but if you have oil in the exhaust that’s a problem.

The turbo can externally leak at a few places. The oil drain often leaks where it bolts to the bearing housing, and where it goes into the valley pan grommet behind the intake manifold. The oil feed can leak at the connections when the olives deteriorate and at the oil block where it bolts to the bearing cartridge. This can be remedied by using a stainless braided oil feed to eliminate the problematic stock setup.

The smoke you are seeing when you smack the throttle is likely the up pipes slip fit joint leaking, it could also be the turbo flange gasket. The up pipe leak can usually be fixed by removing it, cleaning it very well and using high temp copper rtv on the joint.

Hope that helps!

 

[robw]

That helps tons. Ty. New turbo insert time then?

I just realized when I resealed the injection pump housing, I didnt do it properly and there is the majority of the leakdown. $@#!.

So I'm going to drain the coolant and etc. And redo that job... Dang it.

Any tips for sealing this? Obviously return it to tdc before I remove the housong and etc.

How should I put this schmoo on, should I level it before torquing it down? I put a 1/8" rough bead over it all and torqued the bolts down.

Sad days here! This is our only transportation now.

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[Thewespaul]

Yeah you can put a new chra in or send the whole assembly to be rebuilt. I can take care of either. For the timing cover, I like to use a cutout of gasket material and a bit of red rtv on both sides. Parts stores sell gasket material by the roll, trace out the bottom of the cover and cutout a gasket as needed. Should seal much better.

 

[robw]

Hmm, where should I source a gasket for that? I have a cork oil pan gasket I could use.

I'll PM you about price and etc. for the turbo, THANK YOU.

 

[Thewespaul]

Go to the parts store and show them this, they should have it. I keep it in every truck Incase you need to make a gasket on the road

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[austin92]

I fought a return line leak on #7 for a while after I put in new injectors and IP. Tried new o rings 3 times before I got it. I ended up doing what my buddy recommended. He had problems sealing #8 on his r&d rails so he put a washer over the injector threads, on top of the rail before he tightened down the line nut. I put a washer over the return line cap after the 3rd set of o rings and no more leaks. What I don’t understand is the first 2 sets weren’t ripped. Not sure if this is a “proper fix” but it worked for me


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[IDIBRONCO]

I put a washer over the return line cap after the 3rd set of o rings and no more leaks.

This is why I use a dull flat tip screwdriver, place it on the return cap, and tap on the end of the screwdriver with the palm of my hand. Sometimes, you can see the cap actually move down slightly. I've never thought of the washer trick.

assembled with silicon paste... twice... still leaks!

I have no ides of what kind of silicon paste you're using, but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. If you happen to block off the return holes in the cap, then I can see where it could build up enough pressure to cause an external leak. The extra fuel will go somewhere. All I've ever used to lube the o-rings is either ATF or engine assembly lube. What ever you use, make sure that it will dissolve in diesel fuel. "Silicon paste", to me, doesn't sound like it will dissolve in diesel fuel.

 

[austin92]

This is why I use a dull flat tip screwdriver, place it on the return cap, and tap on the end of the screwdriver with the palm of my hand. Sometimes, you can see the cap actually move down slightly. I've never thought of the washer trick.

I have no ides of what kind of silicon paste you're using, but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. If you happen to block off the return holes in the cap, then I can see where it could build up enough pressure to cause an external leak. The extra fuel will go somewhere. All I've ever used to lube the o-rings is either ATF or engine assembly lube. What ever you use, make sure that it will dissolve in diesel fuel. "Silicon paste", to me, doesn't sound like it will dissolve in diesel fuel.

I could tell when it snapped down into place, just kept leaking. Washer trick has lasted about 3000 miles so far though. I used wheel bearing grease each time


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[robw]

I've used this successfully for years; occam's razor and deduction would tell me Wes has a great point, and the return lines are slightly (1/8"~) too long causing strain upon the caps creating an imperfect seal.

I am going to replace the return lines and see if it leaks.

A good friend of mine retorqued the heads and redid the valve cover gaskets, they were nasty.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...M-Silicone-Paste/?N=5002385+3293194053&rt=rud