7.3L IDI turbo engine removal

[jetfly12]

Hello members!
I recently bought a 1994 F-350 crew cab long bed 2wd pick up! It doesn't start on its own but it runs and sounds good. There are some oil spots around the block that is covered in oil so I like to pull it out the truck and gain that experience of doing so since I have a engine hoist new. I will be cleaning it up and put on new seals, checking for valve clearances and putting on new glow plugs, etc... So I was wondering if there are any sources on here or youtube on how to remove the block? I will be removing the radiator, but I like to see how something is done visually before I do a big job like this! If there are no engine removal thread, then I will use this one as a write up on how to do so.
Thanks for any help!

 

[riotwarrior]

Welcome.

So its really no different than any other vehicle just bigger.

I always sugges removing the clip...thats the rad support with both fenders still attached. This allows a ton of room to work on your engine and such and allows a good thorough cleaning of frame and firewall.

I am not sure why you want to pull it unless you plan on some mods like a cam and redoing head gaskets and such. If going with new hg if its in budget get studs.

Pics of truck please.

JM7.3CW

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Can you tell us what the rating is for the engine hoist? Also what are you planning to rest the engine on during gasket and seal replacements? The cheapy harbor freight engine stands will not handle the weight of this engine. You will need at 2000 lbs engine stand. Our engines never had an oil pan gasket so please do not instal one. Any cork or rubber gasket will become a huge leaker and the engine MUST be removed to replace it. The factory used an RTV and everyone else here does. I like the permatex ultra copper plus. It has never leaked in more than 30 years of use. You will need to clean the surfaces really clean or nothing will seal well. Most if not al on this forum use brake clean because it will not leave any film on the cleaned parts.

 

[jetfly12]

I can assure you, I have the proper hoist for the job. Not a cheap harbor freight haha thanks for the concern. I may replace the head gaskets and studs but more importantly, I will be using RTV for the pan, replace the valve cover gaskets, and I'd would also like to do the rear main seal and oil cooler seals as well. It does need a new vacuum pump and might as well replace the water pump and tstat. I believe the belt tension could be replaced as well since it has a stripped bolt. Time is not always available and the truck is too long for the gargage, I'd like to pull it out and move the block in the garage and work on it a couple hours at a time without having to bend over the truck to do all of those things. I suppose I will look into removing the clips and I will post pictures soon. Thanks for the info

 

[riotwarrior]

ONLY MOTORCRAFT or IH thermostat...and BERU ZD9 glow plugs.

Clip removal is 12 bolts..thats it... some electrical and a hose or two....say windshield washer...maybe a vacuum line etc.

Sounds like you have a plan..good stuff...check into a @typ4 cam Russ jas a nice torque cam

 

[jetfly12]

I will have to disconnect the condenser and I have no idea how I properly drain the AC system and it works so I am hesitant about doing it!

 

[icanfixall]

Well I'm glad you understand these engines weigh lots. They weigh around 1000 lbs dressed. That means an engine stand that is say 1500 lbs capasity really can't "safely" handle that weight. For most of us we rent the engine pickers from rental yards. Or take the front clip off so you do not have to lift up over the radiator core support.

 

[towcat]

hi.
an "outside the box" suggestion that was necessary for me when my turbo up-pipes did not separate. mind you, I also don't live in a rust-belt state.
what do I do along with pulling a radiator support/front clip? I lift the cab and stick 4x4 blocks between the mounts and cab. Not really that much extra time. Four cab bolts, seperate the master cyl from booster, disconnect the steering shaft from the gear. you could lift higher if you disconnect the parking brake cable and the cab to chassis electrical, but I've found that 4inches more of space is more than adequate to pull the engine, trans and transfer case with turbo installed out as one unit. obviously, I'm not using a cherry picker either. I have a twin line wrecker that doubles frequently as an engine hoist.

 

[jetfly12]

Hello!
All is going well, Got the radiator removed and the radiator support out too as well, that was a real ***** because the front two body mount bolts were pretty damn seized. I have a few questions and concerns i want to ask on here.
I found some gunk in the lower hose, and it didnt seem to be inside the radiator. The radiator still flows nicely when i flushed it out and here are a few pictures of what I am talking about and I want to know whats going on. Next I wanted to ask what are some good mounting points on the block for the hoist to attach to?

I will do a write up on how to remove the entire front of the truck and engine removal once i am done as there are none on here!

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