7.3 tear down/rebuild (hydrolocked)

IDIBRONCO

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That's a new one on me. I'm not sure that I'd trust the knurling to keep the lobe from spinning permanently. Once it spins, you're dead in the water. If you can't figure it out, it may be time for an electric pump. One more thing after all that, did you happen to install the lobe backward? I'm just wondering if it will spin after being installed backward. Did you happen to forget the cam retaining plate and that let's the eccentric go back too far? It's been a while, but I seem to recall that the eccentric sits over the key. Not behind it.
 

Jake_IN

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@IDIBRONCO I'll get back to you with a more detailed response tomorrow with pictures (faster internet plus its my bed time).

However i did manage to come across a video of someone else that encountered the same problem. Unfortunately for them. The cam is in the engine.

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Jake_IN

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Ok so here is a long post.

First I'll share some pictures of how i disassembled the parts for the old cam. I found lots of posts talking about how to do it but not very many showing how to do it. So for the sake of the visual learners i took some pictures.

Picture of all the bits that come off. My fuel pump eccentric was pretty beat up.
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This was the least fun part of it. Really didn't feel like the gear was going to move, but right at the point that you think something is going to break. It started moving.
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Next inline was the fuel pump eccentric. This puller made things a breeze.
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For the spacer ring I just flipped the block around and that made it possible to slip it behind the ring and pull it off as well.
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Pretty sure a fuel pump arm got cockeyed at some point and was riding on the very edge of the eccentric lobe. This thing is in rough shape.
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You can kind of see the "Swirl" marks on the top cam from where the fuel pump arm was rubbing the side.
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Now onto the issue with the fuel pump eccentric spinning on the camshaft. I measured the "new" eccentric and its measuring 1.889" and the old eccentric is measuring 1.888". The camshaft is measuring 1.888" as well. My attempts at finding a replacement eccentric didn't really go anywhere. The only place i found selling an eccentric was Jensales parts (<-clickable link) which lists the eccentric as Reliance Power Parts # 3446567. They also are out of stock of the eccentrics. The PN doesn't really lead anywhere and Reliance Power doesn't even list that on their site. So i'm going to assume that at this point this eccentric is an obsolete part.

So i think my plan for today is to take a center punch and peen around the inside circumference of the eccentric. I'm then going to apply some blue loctite and press the eccentric onto the cam. I do believe at this point it would be best for me to just switch to an electric fuel pump, although to be honest I've never had a single problem with my mechanical pump which is why I wanted to stick with it. So the main point to me putting the cam into place is to simply maintain the internal balance of the parts (I'm over thinking all of this but it will allow me to sleep at night).
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'll take back my earlier remark about the cam knurling. Since the difference is only .001", you shouldn't have any issues with the knurling. I thought there was a much bigger difference. Instead of blue LocTite, you may want to use green LocTite. This is the kind of thing that it's made for.
 

Booyah45828

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2nd the green loctite. Blue/red is for threads, not sure how it would work on a sleeve like this. Green is a retaining compound used for holding sleeves and stuff. So scuff the hole and shaft with sandpaper, clean with solvent, and then apply the loctite. After setting for 24 hours you should be good to go.

Loctite also has a silver retaining compound/ bearing mount as well that's good for .015" or so if you need it. It's hard to find though, the last tube I bought coming from Taiwan.
 

TahoeTom

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When I ordered my cam from Russ he had the option of repairing the fuel pump lobe. You might ask him if he has spares or still offers this service.
 

Jake_IN

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Had a fairly productive weekend. Pretty much have the bottom end done now.

To revisit a topic from last week. I'm pretty sure the wear on the edge of the fuel pump eccentric is due to the fuel pump that i had currently installed. You can see the arm is pretty beat up on the side. When i stuck it in the block the arm wasn't any where near centered under the lobe.
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Anyway back to our regularly scheduled program.

Got the cam installed and the end play checked out.
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Please excuse the mess at my fisher price lathe. It needs a good cleaning, just haven't got to it yet. This was my setup for inspecting push rods. It isn't the best but still gave me results.
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Once i got the crank installed i went ahead and checked all my bearing clearances. Talk about a work out with the torque wrench. My arm was starting to feel it by the time I was done. Also whoever wrote the procedure for setting the thrust bearing must have had three arms. The whole "Pry the crank one way, pry the bearing block the other way, then pry the crank the other way and hold it while torquing the block down with your other arm" was next to impossible.
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Who doesn't like a good bath?
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More paint in here than a college rave!
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Starting to look like an engine.
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And lastly the boring spreadsheet with measurements (and misspellings). So far everything has been landing nicely within the tolerance zones. Hopefully this continues as i move to the top side.
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IDIBRONCO

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Before you go too much farther, I think that you should at least hold your new lift pump up like it's installed. That way you can check to see how the arm fits onto the eccentric. If that one's not centered, is there a possibility that you installed it backward on the cam?
 

Jake_IN

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Before you go too much farther, I think that you should at least hold your new lift pump up like it's installed. That way you can check to see how the arm fits onto the eccentric. If that one's not centered, is there a possibility that you installed it backward on the cam?


Yeah that's what I did already. I stuck it in the block and the arm was about 50/50 on the cam/off the cam. I wish i had a second fuel pump laying around to see if the arm on mine is crooked, but this is the only pump i have and since I'm going to just go with an electric pump i don't think i'm going to spend to much time investigating. Today or tomorrow though i'll stick it back in and actually bolt it up and get some pictures.
 

Booyah45828

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Wait, hobby lathes are supposed to be clean? I'll vacuum up the chips/swarf every now and again.

The only ones that I've seen that were clean were either brand new, or rusty........
 

Jake_IN

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Wait, hobby lathes are supposed to be clean? I'll vacuum up the chips/swarf every now and again.

The only ones that I've seen that were clean were either brand new, or rusty........

haha yeah its one of those things where any time I'm using it. Its for some other project. So I'm focused on that project and "I'll come back later and clean it up" I just have a hard time actually doing that later part.
 

typ4

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Make sure the lift pump is bolted in, a few thou squish on the gasket will move the arm a bunch
 

Jake_IN

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What did you do for the cam bearings?

Machine shop replaced them. Back on my post in page 2 you can see it listed in the bill (separate items for parts and labor).

This update is going to do lots of jumping around.


Went through the head and measured valve recession Seemed like a lot of my exhaust valves are a bit out of tolerance.
If you are just interested in the numbers I'll start with the spreadsheet.
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Driver side head
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Passenger side head
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Next up was piston protrusion.
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I was kind of on a roll and ended up forgetting to take pictures. But i did go ahead and check valve clearance on one cylinder. For peace of mind and to ensure a sore back, I'm probably going to go back and check all of the cylinders (those cylinder heads are heavy).

Shout out to this guy for his handy video on converting a lifter into a solid lifter.
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My clearance came out to 25thou which is a little less than I would like. I'm going to gamble a bit and count on the new head gasket being thicker and getting me the extra clearance. Since i'm not running a turbo or pushing this engine hard i think I'll be ok.

Bottom end is all ready to be closed up.
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Got to cleaning on the front and rear covers and i have to say my front cover has an awful lot of pitting around the gasket surface. I was planning on assembling this with dry gaskets but since i have this pitting, and i accidentally ordered a 5 pack of Reinzosil. I'm going to use some of that on the gasket to try and make up for the pitting.

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Lastly i did a few other odds and ends.
Got the oil cooler cleaned and resealed. I didn't have a press handy so i had to improvise.
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Also sandblasted and painted the exhaust manifolds with high temp primer. Usually high temp paint doesn't last to well for me. But I'm hoping since i actually followed the direction for curing the paint in the oven I'm hoping this will last.


mmmm just like grandma used to bake
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