7.3 problems that are really starting to confuse me

Discussion in '7.3L Powerstroke Diesels' started by drew erzar, Oct 18, 2017.

  1. drew erzar

    drew erzar Registered User

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    i have a 2000 f-350 7.3 285,000 miles. so a while back it started to blow smoke before winter and continued to blow more over a 6 month period couldnt afford to get the injectors done at the time and by that point it was getting pretty bad. so then i had got the injectors done it ran like a dream started perfectly ran awesome and everything was gravy for about 3 weeks. then the smoke started coming back slowly again. and now when i start it up it starts like its got a wild lobe to it and i give it a little throttle and runs fine but will not stop smoking ever unless there is a really heavy load on it then its like its getting hot enough to burn off all the fuel. the smoke is blue and stinks of raw fuel burning your eyes. badly and lots of blow by. ive replaced the icp with a black one, opened up the fuel bowl it was completely clean, i got a p1316 code with is the idm but dont have a scanner for the transmission. i rev itup to about 1300 rpms and then the code and check engine light goes away let it idle back down and they come right back. tried a brand new idm and didnt do anything.its got new valve cover gaskets both sides with the good ones from napa where they are straight wiring not clips under the covers and those ohmed out good. im about to do a compression test. any ideas on what it could be? injector o rings, valve stem seals, or hpop possibly? i have no clue at this point..
     
  2. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Do a compression test first.
    Throw in a new thermostat also.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
     
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  3. u2slow

    u2slow Plan B

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    Your hpop is probably getting tired. IPR is another common item to start giving grief.

    One of the best diagnostic tricks I ever did was to hook up a hydraulic pressure gauge to read the oil rail pressure. Also helps to install a HPX line, or pull the check valves from from the hpop delivery lines (balances pressure between right and left heads).

    Is the warm-up valve on the turbo sticking? Its easy to unhook and mechanically wire it open for a trial.
     
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  4. drew erzar

    drew erzar Registered User

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    I will try that and how do you do diconnect that?and when it was slowly smoking over time after it got warm then it wouldn't smoke anymore so yes those two things would make sense
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017
  5. OLDBULL8

    OLDBULL8 Good Morning Ya'll. Supporting Member

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  6. drew erzar

    drew erzar Registered User

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    Not looking to buy parts that aren't broke you ding dong. If it ain't broke don't fix it.. trying to be a doctor here and diagnose it not trying to be a surgeon and start slicing away..
     
  7. OLDBULL8

    OLDBULL8 Good Morning Ya'll. Supporting Member

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    Uh, we don't call other members Derogatory NAMES. Some have been Band from this Forum for doing that.

    If you don't like a suggestion, IGNOR IT.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2017
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  8. snicklas

    snicklas 6.0 and Loving It!! Staff Member

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    You asked for help and suggestions, Bill was doing just that. You know, sometimes replacing a part or o-ring IS part of the diagnosis......

    It sounds like you have some kind of hydraulic problem, and if the O-Rings are bad, replacing them may be the only way to find it.

    He is also correct, we do not tolerate disrespect here. I understand you are frustrated, but be civil....... let a friendly reminder from a fellow member be enough, don't make mountain out of a molehill and get staff evolved....... we can help you with your mountain........
     
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  9. u2slow

    u2slow Plan B

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    On my E350 is was a linkage on the back of the turbo. Undo the clip, take the linkage off the plunger and mechanics' wire the flapper open. On my OBS F350 (5spd), I tapped into the wiring for the solenoid and gave it manual control with a switch (makeshift exhaust brake).
     
  10. OLDBULL8

    OLDBULL8 Good Morning Ya'll. Supporting Member

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    Reading your 1st post again.
    So why did you just buy an IDM. If you don't have a scanner that can read Ford codes it's possible to get a false DTC which will lead you down the wrong path.

    You said: ive replaced the icp with a black one
    I think your referring to the CPS, "Cam Position Sensor", when you say "black one". ICP is the "Injector Control Pressure", If that is leaking oil, it needs to be replaced. You can disconnect IT and let the PCM take over, do that and see if that will make a change in your black smoking. When disconnecting the ICP, the PCM will ramp up the HPOP pressure to around 3500 PSI, that is if the IPR O'rings are not leaking.
    The oil rails have a plug on them with an O'ring, it's a common thing that the O'ring deteriorates from heat and will leak oil

    An "Autoinginuity Scanner" can monitor pressures and read any DTC Ford code.

    PSD Engine Labels 1.jpg

    PSD Engine Labels 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017
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