7.3 idi water in oil

riphip

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Put something over the air filter housing if not turboed. You may have water leaking in the intake pan otherwise
 

IDIBRONCO

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If you're going to use some cheap oil for a couple of engine flushes, you wouldn't absolutely have to run diesel oil. If you were to run the engine for 15-20 minutes and then drain out the cheap oil, I don't see where that would hurt anything. Just be sure to put your regular oil back in when you're all done.
 

Big Bart

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Thoughts,

1) Double check again to see if your radiator is full. (Perhpas just refilling and moving the truck was enought for the head gaskets to leak.) You also could put a radiator tester on the radiator and start the truck. (On and off first. Then on for longer.) Looking for pressure quickly building in the radiator from compression gasses.
2) If you had a cavitaiton hole it could leak while sitting. (Not likely, just possible.)
3) I would check but go ahead and replace the CDR valve and the rubber gromet it plugs into. The CDR is one of the most overlooked maintenance issues for these trucks.(You really do not know when it has gone bad, cleaning during oil changes, and replacing every so often is the best way to avoid it failing.) A bad one can cause a blown head gasket. (Let's too much oil into the intake manifold.) Many mechanics and truck owners do not replace the rubber boot that seals the top of the engine to the CDR valve, when replacing the CDR valve. So these boots crack and fall apart, letting blow by out but also dust and in this case perhaps water in. Then add rain running down the front windshield, waterfalling off the body, and down on top of your engine (About where the CDR is.) and running into your motor via the bad CDR boot on the top plate. (But it sounds like a lot of water.)
4) Perhaps also look for a bad turbo intake boot. I do not have a turbo, but anywhere your turbo intake goes from metal to rubber could be a spot for intrusion.
5) Last look at the top plate (Under injector lines), it is pretty thin as I recall. Add years of use, some abuse, some salt from the roads, water sitting on it every rain, maybe your top plate has rusted through and lets water pour into the lifter valley. Maybe do a smoke test from the oil fill hole to see what happens.

Let us know what the resolve is!
 

wlf89

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have done a couple of flushes and oil changes. drove around five minutes and there was oil standing on the intake valley pan. im guessing thats my problem. rusted out under turbo maybe, oil coming up and water can go in. i can not see much but i did see some rust spots right as it goes under turbo. also there is a rag stuffed under turbo on top of valley pan from back side. gonna have to pull turbo and intake to see what is going on.
how bad of a job is this gonna be?
 

Cubey

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Put something over the air filter housing if not turboed. You may have water leaking in the intake pan otherwise

Yeah, you could even duct tape heavy plastic sheeting over the air filter lid if needed. Then you could still drive it without having to remove the plastic. I have my F250 stored out in the open in my mom's back yard with thick plastic sheeting over the air filter housing like this.

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Farmer Rock

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Yeah, you could even duct tape heavy plastic sheeting over the air filter lid if needed. Then you could still drive it without having to remove the plastic. I have my F250 stored out in the open in my mom's back yard with thick plastic sheeting over the air filter housing like this.

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That looks like a good idea.Do you have trouble with the plastic melting when hot?


Rock
 

Cubey

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That looks like a good idea.Do you have trouble with the plastic melting when hot?


Rock

I didn't drive it with the plastic on there. My hood seal isn't too bad about letting in water yet so I only put it like you see it in the pic when stored for a year or more, not being driven at all. If you were to tape a smaller piece directly to the lid of a type f plastic with a higher melting point, it would probably work. Some heavy duty aluminum foil would work too and wouldn't melt. They also make the aluminum foil tape for ducts and such, but that stuff isn't very sticky. Some gorilla tape and aluminum foil would probably last longer.
 

TNBrett

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OP’s truck is a turbo. I really expect him to find the grommet split open. That would allow water into the crankcase, and would also spill oil onto the valley pan.


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Old Goat

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Ya know there is a drain right behind the CDR Grommet.
The plug screws into the pan, and I guess the block. Then it drains down the back of the engine. If it gets plugged, the water had no where to go.

You can unscrew the drain plug with a square end of a 3/8 extension.
I guess you could stick a stiff wire down the enter to clean out the hole.

We pulled two IP`s at PNP off a 86 and a 89 IDI. both were plugged solid.


Goat.
 

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