7.3 idi injection pump air lock, Or something worse?

[ConstantVigilance]

UPDATE:
I wanted to give an update and also ask some other questions. I don't know if anyone will see this new reply, but I figured why start a new posting...

As for the update: Purchased a Bull Moose Pump from Conestoga Diesel. The truck still took a while to bleed even though I almost immediately noticed fuel at a few of the injectors.

A strange thing, however: the solenoid at the top of the IP wouldn't work at first. I couldn't hear the clicking sound that I did with the old IP. I then used a jumper wire directly from the battery and it clicked. I thought it was strange, but figure my old IP didn't need as much current as this new one. I have sense installed a dedicated fuse and relay to turn the IP on.

The truck did, finally, roar to life. It was pretty awesome. It never sounded like it "wanted to start". I was turning the motor over for 20 second intervals and waiting 10 minutes with a 40 amp charger hooked up. I had to wait all that time cause my starter was beginning to go out. ((if you recall, when i originally had the IP problems, I would crank the motor for 20-30 seconds and wait 2-5 minutes)). Eventually, I got fuel at all injectors, but it was intermittent. I tightened down all injectors and cranked for 5 seconds - then cracked each injector open for a second to release air. I did this until i heard no air from any of them. I cycled the glow plugs and hit the button: she simply exploded into life! It was instant. No coughing or puttering or what not. It was cool.

My starter wont work anymore, however. I bought it on Amazon for $88 a year and a half ago. This was the first time I've used it. I only ever wanted it to get me by until I could buy a better one. I'm looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y85GH8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2JDBXOBHVPAO&coliid=I1USL6ACPF5YE6

I've also got a few other questions: My turbo boost gauge was missing the tubing that runs from the gauge to the back of the banks inlet cap. I'm including a picture. I'm wondering what size that nipple is and if I should just get a kit like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Equus-9801-P...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9A4ZSEWAS74V11P9HXZ0
https://www.amazon.com/Equus-9801-P...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9A4ZSEWAS74V11P9HXZ0
i know its for oil pressure - but it seems like it would be more durable than the other nylon pressure hoses.

Also, my tachometer doesn't work. Maybe there are one or two common things to look for?

Now - I'm hoping someone can identify a few things in my engine compartment and tell me what they do...

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzcDqkRK9zXJb1hOY2xPN1dKWVk?usp=sharing

Thanks for any help and future help: cause I'm going to need it. Very happy the truck runs, I'll get a google drive file shared if anyone wants to see how my build is going. All the "fabrication" is done with scrap metal a farmer friend had in his barn. ((Some of those pictures will show you just how new I was too all this... please keep that in mind before you comment, thanks))
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BzcDqkRK9zXJSFh1cXF2VWVjczA?usp=sharing

 

[79jasper]

That nylon tubing is all the same. It'll work.
In the pics, the one with the hose coming off is the map sensor. I didn't remember the idi's having them. Basically the hose would hook to the intake. Like the boost line.

Many here seem to like the db starters. I've seen equally positive and negative feedback. When it's questionable, I prefer something I can swap out at the parts store, don't have to wait on shipping.

The other plug might be the daytime running lights pigtail. Or actually, I think it's the low vacuum warning sensor plug. Should be a tuna can looking thing on the fender well. Drivers side for a obs, passenger side for Brick nose.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[icanfixall]

The last pic is the boost pressure fitting on the intake hat. The pressure tube kit you posted about will work great on this.

 

[ConstantVigilance]

great, thanks. Yeah, that makes sense about the map sensor. That cab came off an EFI truck. I was confused sense my old standard cab had the same thing... it was originally an auto transmission, and maybe even a gasser for all I know.

I'll look for the tuna can and see if it will connect. But its on the pass-side, and i think my tuna can is on the driver-side. All my lights are pluged in... so i was thinking it may be for the older alternators with the external voltage regulators... (the harness is from an 1992 F350 while the engine is 93 with the 93's alternator harness.)

 

[tbrumm]

great, thanks. Yeah, that makes sense about the map sensor. That cab came off an EFI truck. I was confused sense my old standard cab had the same thing... it was originally an auto transmission, and maybe even a gasser for all I know.

The IDI's equipped with the E4OD automatic trans have that sensor. As I understand it, the E4OD's trans control computer needs that sensor's data (barometric pressure) to factor into its shift programming. I am not sure why it needs an air pressure reading, but it does, and maybe somebody can enlighten me on why.

 

[79jasper]

It shouldn't be for barometric pressure. That's a different sensor all together. Lol
On the psd, it works like the tps does. More boost needs more line pressure and firmer shifts.

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[ConstantVigilance]

Update:
I have the truck running and moving under its own power. But there are some issues that I need to look at before I think it's roadworthy. Mainly my front brakes, but there are some noises that I'm concerned with. One of those noises I'm sure is an exhaust leak. I heard a clicking or smacking sound typical of an exhaust leak. Putting my head down there by the crossover pipe I could hear it very very loud. I tightened up the passenger side, where I thought it was coming from, but I hear it now on the driver side. I'm guessing both of those crossover connections were loose or just not tight enough. I have not tighten them as tight as I think I can get them. I don't know how much torque they can take I can go under and keep going but the impact I have doesn't spin them anymore and so I'm using a breaker bar. I'm guessing maybe new bolts and studs?

Because I've never driven one of these trucks before, I really don't know what noises are normal and what noises are not normal. I've heard these idi's before and they sound good to me, other than the exhaust tapping sound the truck engine sounds good when it's sitting there idling. I have a single Mass flywheel in my clutch. And I've heard those are noisy. So I'm wondering what I should expect from that sound. When Im driving the truck there is this funny gearing, tooth meshing sound that is very hard to describe. I don't think the recording will pick up the noise but I can try.

I don't have a working tachometer, so Im also not hundred percent sure when I should shift.

I need to drive a little bit more so that I can better tune into what is going on but because I'd never driven these trucks I just don't know what to listen to.

I feel like that exhaust leak sound is a priority to be taking care of. I remember exhaust leaks are really bad for gas engines I'm not sure how detrimental they are to diesel engines however.

Another thing that is not working, strangely enough, is the cold idle Advance solenoid on top of the injection pump. If you recall in my previous post I had to wire up another power line to the injection pump solenoid because for some reason my engine harness wasn't doing it anymore. It was, in the past, powering the cold idle Advance solenoid but now it's not. I don't think I can just power that up with another line, because it will never turn off. I don't know if my reasoning is correct or not but to me it seems that if I have a constant 12 volts to that one, it'll always Idle high. If somebody can tell me if I'm right or not I'll know that I need to figure out what's wrong with my harness. Maybe it's just a fuse?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, as always. Thanks again everyone.

 

[Macrobb]

I feel like that exhaust leak sound is a priority to be taking care of. I remember exhaust leaks are really bad for gas engines I'm not sure how detrimental they are to diesel engines however.

Only time it matters is if you have a turbo. Without a turbo, it literally doesn't matter at all.
With a turbo, it just means lower boost. I once had a pretty large leak on my truck(One side crossover flange totally detatched, was a good 1/4" gap all the way around). She sounded really loud whenever I got on the throttle, and the boost dropped from like 15 psi max to 6. Other than that, especially at light load(where the turbo isn't really contributing anyway), it drove as it always did.

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Of course, the exhaust leak might be more of a problem to /you/ as the driver, but diesel exhaust(with the engine tuned correctly) is less toxic than gasser exhaust, as far as I can tell. A lot less likely to give you a headache, that's for sure.

 

[ConstantVigilance]

Thanks for the response. Spent a while trying to figure out the chattering noise. It was pretty loud and I couldn't get the cross-over pipe any tighter. But it was loud all the time. The faster I went, the faster and louder the sound. Changing gears slowed it down... so it seemed like it was matching engine speed. I decided to send my dad under there with the motor running. (He actually volunteered) and as it turns out, the noise was from the flywheel hitting that protective cover bolted to the tranny. I removed the cover and she sounds great. I remember installing that cover and noticing that I had a mounting point snapped off but figured it would hold tight with the other 3 bolts. But it doesn't.

I need to fix it... makes me nervous having the flywheel just spinning out in the open like that. (Technically, theres that cross-over pipe that protects it a little.)

It's good to know about the exhaust leak and how diesel may not be as bad as gas.

Can you tell me what i should expect from the truck after acceleration and sudden throttle close? The truck accelerates just fine but when I back off, there's some noise that I don't recognize. It's almost as if there's some exhaust braking going on. Is this sound normal? I do have a turbo (banks sidewinder).

Also, as it turns out, my glow plugs aren't doing there job. I hear the clicking from the glow plug relay. Yesterday I just cycled it about 5 times and she finally started. But I had to keep my foot on the throttle. I mentioned the cold start relay isn't working (strange it worked just a month ago). I know that its not good for the glow plugs to cycle them over and over, so this morning I just plugged in that engine block heater. Left it on for about an hour and she fired right up. I know the back two glow plugs are new... but the others are old. It will hurt, but I'll need to change them out.

Still running down the no tachometer bug. But, because its a 7.3idi with a cab from a gasser, I'm afraid there may be missing wires someplace.