7.3 IDI Block Heater Cord Question

HammerDown

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theguruat12

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I'd be reallllllllllllllllly wary of using 18 gauge wire to carry 1500W @ 110V. You're looking at about 13 amperes, and 18 gauge is not rated for that current at that voltage. Then again, I haven't checked the original wire size.

Electrically, I'd be wary, but it may work absolutely fine.

EDIT: My mistake, it's only 1000W. 18 gauge is fine. Looks like the right connector to me, I'd try it, decent price.
 

HammerDown

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I'd be reallllllllllllllllly wary of using 18 gauge wire to carry 1500W @ 110V. You're looking at about 13 amperes, and 18 gauge is not rated for that current at that voltage. Then again, I haven't checked the original wire size.

Electrically, I'd be wary, but it may work absolutely fine.

EDIT: My mistake, it's only 1000W. 18 gauge is fine. Looks like the right connector to me, I'd try it, decent price.
Looks close but???
I'll recall Kat's tomorrow hopefully a tech-rep can answer application fitment.
Napa can also get the Kat's cord, but they have no idea if it will fit.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Heater-Power-Cord-KAT/_/R-KAT28400_0477754238
Looks like it will fit...hopefully the starter doesn't need to be pulled
Ford Truck F250 3/4 Ton - Pickup 6.9 L 420 CID V8 Diesel 1983 - 1987
Ford Truck F250 3/4 Ton - Pickup 6.9 L 420 CID V8 Diesel 1983 - 1987
Ford Truck F250 3/4 Ton - Pickup 7.3 L 446 CID V8 Diesel 1988 - 1997
Ford Truck F250 3/4 Ton - Pickup 7.3 L 446 CID V8 Diesel 1988 - 1997
 
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madpogue

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16 gauge cord is only a buckandahalf more - http://www.amazon.com/Kats-28200-Gauge-Replacement-Cord/dp/B000I8VL8O/ . There are only two types of connector for the element end of the VAST majority of block heaters. They're either the v-shape like these, or round like the cords for the PSD block heaters built into the oil coolers. So yeah, should be a good fit.

Starter is a five minute job to pull. Disconnect both negatives, of course. Just leave the wires connected to the starter. That's what I do when I flush the coolant on both the PSDs and the IDI.
 

Zaggnutt

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Anyone know if the below Kat's cord will work for a 7.3 IDI ?
I know "Zerostat" has a replacement cord, but it's twice as much.
Also, I'm hoping I can replace the 'cord' without pulling the starter?
I tried to call Kat's...their closed today because of a dusting of snow (located in Tennessee)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I8TQGS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I did mine about a month ago. That's the same part number I got and the cord comes out of the wrong part of the plug. The fit is not snug like I hoped it would be either. It works and everything seems okay, but I will be ordering from another manufacturer when I replace the plug on Sis. It was either Napa or Advance Auto, but one of the places I was looking online had a note which mentioned the part of the engine the heater was on I assume for cord/plug orientation.

You do not need to remove the starter to do this. If you get on your creeper and slide in from the passenger side door head first you can clearly see the plug above and behind the starter. I used a long screw driver to push it on while holding it with my other hand.
 

Zaggnutt

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The cord you want should look like this one....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-7-3-6-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27f731f7be&vxp=mtr
Notice how the wiring comes out the side of the plug? It also has a cap which isn't a big deal, but it is nice to have. Mine gives me an unpleasant little jolt when it's wet.
I noticed a reference to part# LR1843 as OEM, but I'm not finding much on it.
Do yourself a favor and slide underneath and take a quick peek or better yet pull it out and then you can look at it up close and personal. If you are picky about your truck parts you will not be happy with the KATS.
 

HammerDown

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Thanks for the feedback fellas...I did notice the plug to wire exit and was wondering 'if' that would be an issue.
On mine, where the wire exits the plug the insulating cover is cracked exposing the bare wire...so that's why I need to replace it.
BTW...good to know I can remove the plug without pulling the starter ;Sweet
 
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Zaggnutt

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Madpogue beat me on price!-cussLOL

I should mention that I am 6'3" and can hula hoop with a Cheerio if that is an indication of the "tools" I am working with, but given the proper line of sight, motivation, and a long handled somethin' you should be good to go.... If you need any extra motivation think of the top bolt on the starter needing loosened / removed for the 10 seconds needed to plug a plug in....:D;Sweet
 

ironworker40

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If you take out the rubber flap(or whatever you call it) in the wheel well you can see it clearly and may not have to take out starter. On mine its one 1/4" hex size bolt and some push rivets.
 

HammerDown

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Removed the old cord and fixed it up reeeeeal nice!
Got me some 'Liquid Electrical Tap' gooped it on and then used some heat-shrink...BAM...done deal ;Sweet
Now, I'm sure if I use it the o-ring will start leaking or the heating element with burn out...my luck ;Really
 

Zaggnutt

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Just referred back to this so I could track down the cord Madpogue found. I'm tired of mine shocking the **** outta me every time it gets wet. Got me real good a couple days ago and I haven't plugged it in since.
 

Zaggnutt

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BTW...just wanted to mention...how my OE heater is 'clocked' into the block the Napa plug below would exit the cord facing the front of the engine.
If the Napa/Kats plug has a snug fit into the socket, I believe the below would have worked perfectly.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Heater-Power-Cord-KAT/_/R-KAT28400_0477754238

I replaced my cord with the KAT part# 28400 you are referring to and the cord faces up when plugged in. The cord needs to exit from the side to face towards the front of the truck. As I mentioned, it works, but the plug is a little sloppy and I don't like the cord going uphill. I think it is a matter of preference and pickiness. I would not buy it again. I will pay the extra money for the Zerostart.
 

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