7.3 Head Gasket Replacement-ARP Head Stud Install

[tbrumm]

I really appreciate that offer, Bill! But, if I do get one of the torque cams from Russ, I figured I would just send him the cam I pull out of my truck. I don't have a problem paying the core charge and then getting it back once I send my cam back to him. Besides, there might be a fellow Oilburner out there someday who may need your cam for an "emergency" replacement.

 

[typ4]

Need cam cores. also I like the stock spring with a .030 shim. any of these trucks are old enough to need valve springs. I can get springs quick.

 

[riotwarrior]

Need cam cores. also I like the stock spring with a .030 shim. any of these trucks are old enough to need valve springs. I can get springs quick.

Well then suppose the new ones on heads I have are golden...best get some shims then...

Suppose if we both ever get some roundtuits I could muster 3 or more cam cores ...ifn I can get motivated to do it...lol...might wanna tak pair heads too?

 

[tbrumm]

Need cam cores. also I like the stock spring with a .030 shim. any of these trucks are old enough to need valve springs. I can get springs quick.

Thanks, Russ - I was hoping you would provide some input on the valve springs. @OLDBULL8 Bill, if you wouldn't mind, can you ship your cam to Russ? I will send you a payment- check, money order or however you want-just let me know. Thanks!

Looks like Russ needs cam cores and even if I don't buy a cam, I am sure I will need something else form Russ before the truck is back on the road - Like an IP rebuild

 

[typ4]

40.00 credit on future purchases, minor , 1 core, major TBD.

 

[tbrumm]

Need cam cores. also I like the stock spring with a .030 shim. any of these trucks are old enough to need valve springs. I can get springs quick.

I found a set of new OEM Ford valve springs. Russ, can I assume that if I keep the stock cam, these OEM springs will not need to be shimmed, or will the machine shop still need to determine that for certain when changing the seals and reassembling the valves?

Weather is getting nicer so it shouldn't be too much longer and I will start the teardown.

 

[typ4]

You should always check springs installed height and pressure and shim accordingly

 

[Waystro]

40.00 credit on future purchases, minor , 1 core, major TBD.

Russ I have so far 2 cams to send you just have to pull them first.
Is there any other engine internals you need?

 

[tbrumm]

You should always check springs installed height and pressure and shim accordingly

Thanks, Russ - I appreciate the reply! I would assume the shop will know this but will make sure when I take the heads in.

 

[tbrumm]

Well, life is really getting in the way of me getting started on this. The truck is running great and is not leaking either, and I have needed it for various things too, so it has also been difficult to take it out of service for a while. I know, excuses, excuses - just get on with it! Anyway, I scored a complete AC plenum out of a '95. Now I can get rid of the crappy dealer installed AC system and hopefully get the AC system working good with stock components.

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[MTKirk]

Well, life is really getting in the way of me getting started on this. The truck is running great and is not leaking either, and I have needed it for various things too, so it has also been difficult to take it out of service for a while. I know, excuses, excuses - just get on with it! Anyway, I scored a complete AC plenum out of a '95. Now I can get rid of the crappy dealer installed AC system and hopefully get the AC system working good with stock components.

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Swapping out the AC components, your oil cooler, and your head gaskets, will be much easier with the engine out. Also while it's out you can check your cylinders for wear, drop the oil pan and plasti-gauge your main and rod bearings. That's the way I did it and I am now into a total rebuild...JOY!!!

 

[tbrumm]

Finally started the teardown. The first item to go was the cheesy dealer installed AC system.

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Look at all the room now that the AC plenum is removed!

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Note the aluminum tape over the ports to inside the cab - gotta keep the little critters out of the cab.

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After the front serpentine drive was disassembled, I removed the exhaust manifolds. It wasn't easy getting eroded bolts out, but it wasn't as bad as I expected either. A " bolt out kit" for rounded off bolts heads did the trick - that and lots of Kroil.

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I brought the timing mark up to the 11 O'clock position in anticipation of removing the valve train, and then removed the injector pump and lines.

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Now things get more serious - rockers and push rods come out.

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No sludge in this motor!

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[tbrumm]

Valvetrain nicely organized in its own covered container.

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The arm on the cherry picker isn't quite long enough to get it centered over the heads

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Because of the deer basher bumper I have. I will have figure something else out when the the heads go back on.
Maybe attach a longer arm on the "fine" piece of Chinese mahunfacturing that is this cherry picker.

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Managed to get the heads off despite the cherry picker's "shortcomings".

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Put each head into its own plastic container with carpet on the bottom to protect the sealing surface.

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[79jasper]

Why not come from the side? Straddle the tire with the legs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[tbrumm]

Why not come from the side? Straddle the tire with the legs.

Yep, tried that and that kept the hook even farther away. The front tires are too big - they would have to come off to allow the hoist to get close enough.