63 6.9 owners needed...

riotwarrior

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Just for curiosity sake....I emails Mahle about custom pistons for a 6.9 utilizing the 7.3 turbo wrist pin.

Well it can be done but we need to order 500 pieces....:rotflmao

Thus it's rather expensive....read the emailed response


Mr. McCormick,

Good after noon. I have been given your request about the above 6.9 / 7.3L pistons for the Navistar / Ford engines.

We do offer 2 different pistons for the 6.9L engine. The pin on the current production is 1.110" X 2.700".

We offer a piston with a Hard Anodized crown for aftermarket turbos. The part number for this is 144111HA030 ( only offered in a .030" oversize)

To answer your question about making a piston for the 6.9L with a bigger pin is yes, but it would be very expensive and would require a minimum order of 500 pieces.

I am sure that the 144111HA030 would be a good fit. I do know that there are people using these in mild performance trucks. (not recommended by MAHLE)

Please let me know if there is any other questions I can answer for you.



Kind Regards,

Eric Miller
MAHLE Clevite Inc.
Aftermarket (TNAA)

1350 Eisenhower Place, Ann Arbor, MI 48108-3282 USA
Phone: +1 (734) 975-7935, Fax: +1 (734) 975-7825
[email protected], http://www.us.mahle.com
 

Diesel JD

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Yeah any idea on pricing? This is the piston I want! I just don't want to have to buy them now, since I'm paying off credit card debt and doing my T19 swap this summer. Would the CR be standard 20.7:1 or could we go a little lower?
 

riotwarrior

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Yeah any idea on pricing? This is the piston I want! I just don't want to have to buy them now, since I'm paying off credit card debt and doing my T19 swap this summer. Would the CR be standard 20.7:1 or could we go a little lower?

Well I have no idea on pricing none what so ever....that being said it would likely be a premium since it's a one off run.

I figured with cavitation being such an issue with 7.3, that a custom "Turbo" piston for a 6.9 would be ideal, as there would be little to no cavitation due to the thicker cylinder walls.

Now I would think we would retain stock compression ratio just for those who want it. Myself I would likely consider having a few thou, milled off the top to lower and help build more boost.

It is nice to dream about things like this but I for one am not in a position to make a 500 pc purchase nor would I.
 

icanfixall

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That number is 62.5 sets of 8 pistons. Probably around $600.00 per set...$37200.00.... Well... Christmas is comming guys..... I would be in for probably 2 sets. Now only 60 sets to go.... Anybody else out there looking for another supplier for these???
 

riotwarrior

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That number is 62.5 sets of 8 pistons. Probably around $600.00 per set...$37200.00.... Well... Christmas is comming guys..... I would be in for probably 2 sets. Now only 60 sets to go.... Anybody else out there looking for another supplier for these???

Well the 63 or 62.5 which I already knew is really just way outta our legue as far as I am concerned.

I think it would be great to have a set along with some 9/16 head studs....mill the pistons, turn up the boost and the fuel on the Moose Pump spraying through Moose injectors.....gotta be good for at least 350-375 HP I would think.....
 

tractorman86

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Well the 63 or 62.5 which I already knew is really just way outta our legue as far as I am concerned.

I think it would be great to have a set along with some 9/16 head studs....mill the pistons, turn up the boost and the fuel on the Moose Pump spraying through Moose injectors.....gotta be good for at least 350-375 HP I would think.....

that much or better i would think. But yea a minimum of 500 sounds outlandish, he was probably just trying to brush you off:rolleyes:. there's gotta be someone else out there that will make a reasonable # of "custom" pistons for our engines.
 

riotwarrior

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that much or better i would think. But yea a minimum of 500 sounds outlandish, he was probably just trying to brush you off:rolleyes:. there's gotta be someone else out there that will make a reasonable # of "custom" pistons for our engines.

Well Venolia http://www.venolia.com/ wont do it I haven't tried Keith Black or Aries yet, Not sure about other Piston manufactures....LMAO :rotflmao :rotflmao

I do like the idea of a totally built 6.9 maybe on the bottlecookoo :thumbsup: :eek:
 

Diesel JD

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I've been looking at some of the custom piston fabricators, I haven't given them a call but I'm thinking for a one of run it would be around 800-1000 for a set just like I want them 18.5:1 compression, bolts to the IDI turbo rod, maybe have them ceramic coated as well.
 

riotwarrior

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I've been looking at some of the custom piston fabricators, I haven't given them a call but I'm thinking for a one of run it would be around 800-1000 for a set just like I want them 18.5:1 compression, bolts to the IDI turbo rod, maybe have them ceramic coated as well.

Bingo...that Turbo wrist pin is important for some reason or Navistar would not have introduced it and as for compression I feel stock compression height is best no coatings....because

That way you can blue print and measure each individual piston at TDC and have them machined to equal deck heights....then and only then lower the compression ratio after all are equalized. Then ship pistons for ceramic topping teflon skirts and if I remember it is Teflon or something used under the dome of the piston as well.

One place for piston coating is http://www.embeeperformance.com/

Here is one I just found out about in a 4x mag I read. it is called Carbon Raptor coating "our Carbon Raptor product is offering engine performance gains beyond wrist pins and engine valves"
And Look here for "Carbon Raptor"
http://www.extremeion.com/

The basic principal is start with the better block....add the best/largest studs for extreme clamping of head/gasket...and build a killer IDI:love:
 

icanfixall

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Something very important has been overlooked about milling each piston. Even if this is done the block must be line bored on the crank webs. Then the block deck must be milled flat and true to the crank.... Then and most inportant each and every precup chamber in the heads (not the precups themselves) must be opened up the the exact same size with a custom ball end mill. Otherwise you will not have the same compression ratio on each cylinder. These chambers were milled out when the heads were first made and they are really ruff and VERY inaccurate in depth by as much as 50 thousands. At least thats what I found out on my set of offshore heads. I built a ball end mill that cleaned up this area. Rus (Typ4) has used it as I did on my first head set. It really works to even out the power pluses.
 

riotwarrior

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Something very important has been overlooked about milling each piston. Even if this is done the block must be line bored on the crank webs. Then the block deck must be milled flat and true to the crank.... Then and most inportant each and every precup chamber in the heads (not the precups themselves) must be opened up the the exact same size with a custom ball end mill. Otherwise you will not have the same compression ratio on each cylinder. These chambers were milled out when the heads were first made and they are really ruff and VERY inaccurate in depth by as much as 50 thousands. At least thats what I found out on my set of offshore heads. I built a ball end mill that cleaned up this area. Rus (Typ4) has used it as I did on my first head set. It really works to even out the power pluses.

Gary...I agree to a degree on this....

...the block must be line bored on the crank webs. Then the block deck must be milled flat and true to the crank....

Only if after being measured and rechecked....Hopefully this machining is not needed....I have had the opportunity to work on several gassers where no machining was needed for squaring up....though sometimes some did need it!

Then and most inportant each and every precup chamber in the heads (not the precups themselves) must be opened up the the exact same size with a custom ball end mill. Otherwise you will not have the same compression ratio on each cylinder. These chambers were milled out when the heads were first made and they are really ruff and VERY inaccurate in depth by as much as 50 thousands.

Well this one here, I have no idea about as I have never been into one of these engines to that degree as of yet. I would agree that after careful measuring if it's found that they are different then yes indeed, mill em to equalize dimensions.

It was not my intention when I started the thread to get overly concerned with the "Blue Printing" aspect...it was tongue in cheek thread actually cause rounding up 63 or to be more accurate as Gary pointed out;Poke 62.500000000000000000 6.9 owners needed....:rotflmao was nothing short of impossible. I doubt we could pull that many together hereLOL
 

icanfixall

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Yes... How very true. Most V8 blocks are twisted so yes, measureing it first is the key important thing. The centerline of the main bearing bore to head deck is 11.137 to 11.141. My block has had about 6 thousands milled off to true it up. I had the opertunity to talk with Eric at Mahle a few years ago. He knows his stuff. Too bad they can't help us out but money does talk.
 

riotwarrior

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I have found that the key to a decent build is to get everything clean and hot tanked etc. Then start with a baseline measure first and determine what needs a fixin...then fix and remeasure..then machine to final spec if needed...then build double checking all torques and being HERMETICALLY clean on everything.
 

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