wabashofutah
Registered User
Hey guys well I took your advice and was going to send out the injection pump on the 6.9 IDI to get rebuild. I found a considerable oil leak between the pump housing (aluminum piece with oil fill spout) and the rest of the motor so I took it off to get surfaces cleaned and put some new sealant on it. I also found out that the was only ONE loose nut holding the IP to the housing! (previous owner nelegance, i just got the beast) 
that probably explains the smoking and hard starts. Anyways while the pump and housing were removed the injector pump gear got moved Now when I put it back on it'll be several teeth off. I've heard nightmares about people having to pull the whole front of the motor off to get the marks on the gears realigned. I am willing to try anything else first. My mechanic buddy says that if I can get cylinder 1 to TDC on the compression stroke the gear will be perfectly aligned with the marking on the top middle. I've also heard of people using little tiny mirrors to find the mark but I don't see how you could get anything down there, let alone see it. How can I get the 2 gears realigned? Any suggestions appreciated!
that probably explains the smoking and hard starts. Anyways while the pump and housing were removed the injector pump gear got moved Now when I put it back on it'll be several teeth off. I've heard nightmares about people having to pull the whole front of the motor off to get the marks on the gears realigned. I am willing to try anything else first. My mechanic buddy says that if I can get cylinder 1 to TDC on the compression stroke the gear will be perfectly aligned with the marking on the top middle. I've also heard of people using little tiny mirrors to find the mark but I don't see how you could get anything down there, let alone see it. How can I get the 2 gears realigned? Any suggestions appreciated!
So I bought that and installed it because it had the upgraded gear on it. The gear in this pic is the gear that causes a balance issue at idle. The new gear has no threaded or drilled holes to remove it from the cam but they are still easy to remove with a gear puller with the legs turned out to grip the insides of the gear. If you wanted this pic all you needed to do was ask for it... I give pics away for free..
Another item about this pic. I may not have explained about the sharpi mark on the gear. Look at the gear alignment in the position its in. From the "Y" make a mark all the way to the top of the gear. This is the line or mark you want to square up to make sure your in the cam timing mark "Y". A right angle scale or as some call it.. The triangle square is used to find your correctly set. Counting up 17 teeth from the "Y" is another way to insure your correct. Make a mark across the gear from the sides counting up 17 teeth. All this must be done at number one top dead center. Also the original poster asked wheres the drive pin location. That too is easy to see in this pic I posted. Now I understand some may wonder how I can say for certainty that I know I have my enfine in the pic at top dead center number one and not top dead center of number 4 cylinder. I know because I didn't have the heads on the engine and there is no way I could have the timing marks mixed up. The "Y" are together as are the DOTS marks. therfore this engine clearly shows the timing marks in relationship to all the drive pins and gears. And lastly something about the gears seen in this pic. Both the injection pump gear and the cam gear have the same amount of teeth on them which is twice the amouunt of teeth found on the crank gear. You can count them if you want but scinece will tell you what I just posted is the truth. If it was not then the injection and valve timing would run off out of time. then valves hit pistons. Injecters wont get fuel at the rite time so nothing works at all. The cam and injection pump gear turn at half the rpm of the crank. Thats the nature of the 4 stroke engines. I hope this was not to tecnichle for some but I tried to make is simple..
