Hi Laserjock,
Yeah the speedos are not super accurate, so when I put larger tires on, it even throws things off further! ha!
I measure the rolling diameter as center of the axle straight down to the ground and double that number. You
are correct, the tire could run flat like a tank tread, but the amount of distance it takes to process that tank tread
one cycle, stays the same. That's the circumferential distance. Thanks for pointing that out!
Hi Trackspeeder,
You are correct sir! I cannot express in words how important it is to check your work- this is made even worse
if you DO NOT DO THIS EVERY DAY for a living or hobby.
I appreciate the props!
Hi Reklund,
Yep, it broke my heart to sell my '75 FJ55. I still have the two candidate turbo diesels for it (a Cummins 4bt and
Isuzu 4bd-2tc.) The guy flew all the way out from Tennessee to buy it, didn't even wait to turn it over and hear
it run, and didn't even haggle the price, just handed my money, THEN looked it over...
Here's a pic from a few years ago:
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(the electric rear window even worked!)
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install**********************
Been spending a lot of time figuring the wiring and how to install the systems that support the E4OD. I have taken
a lot of pics of the process and will post the supporting equipment on this thread soon.
Until then, I am finally ready to get the Transmission over to the site. If you recall, I had to "fix" a problem with
the assembly sequence and part orientation which kept stalling my completing the buttoning-up of the internals.
I also rebuilt the BW 1356 and modified it to suit the plans for my ClubWagon.
Now I am back to finishing up the E4OD:
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I set the Torque Converter onto the Front Pump for the final time. 3 distinct thumps/movements on the way down. It's a
good idea to put the tranny vertical for this (trans should be vert anyways from the prior assembly.) If not, the TC might
not go on all the way (false seating,) and much sadness will occur.
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To keep the Torque Converter in place, I used a 7/16" end wrench bolted to Lower Cover fastener holes. That size wrench
just seems to do it right. I used a little shipping end cap I got off one of the cooler parts I got. The 7/16" wrench just
barely contacts the TC.
Pan was next. *I know this will alarm a few members on here, but bear with me on why I chose a large capacity pan.
When I worked in the U.S. Space Program we had a cooling system similar to the one in this transmission. As we built
more complex/larger versions of the rocket, we had to increase the capabilities of the cooling. One of several things was
increase the fluid volume to counter hysteresis effects. (Hysteresis is basically feedback, and the scenario for our
Overheat Condition, is a large, single cycle which we are wanting to expand, larger to get more time in the cycle.)
On the rockets, just like the trucks, it is a one-shot deal to avoid the overheat scenario.
Cooling:
I did not choose this pan for better cooling- that's what the advertisements pitch. The main reason is
TO BUY TIME.
The two times I've seen transmissions burn up were while under sustained load. In the middle of nowhere, another country,
over 110F air, with surface temps much higher. In one case the driver did not even know the overheating had started, then
it was too late. In the second case we saw the gauge get pegged, but again it was too late, temps were probably close to 300F.
My thinking is to get an extra 3-5 minutes of time BEFORE critical temp is reached. This gives me time to take smart action,
then idle down, do the manual override on the cooling fans (more on that at a later time,) and bring temps back within
service range.
It's kind of like trying to boil 2 quarts of water on your camp stove vs. 2 gallons, you'll get both to boil... ...eventually.
That said, the Derale pan I got has cooling tubes that work like convection tubes in a fireplace.
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The only cooling advantage you are going to get is the increased surface area (of metal) to dump out heat. If air is blowing
on the metal, even better. Most ALL the time, the E4OD
will not run very hot. My trans is not a drag racer, it's for long
hauls, on sustained grades with extreme ambient heat, and not necessarily heavy payloads.
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Note the color of the Pan Bolts- It was my first attempt at Home Powdercoating, pretty easy once you get equipped right
Takes a wrench pretty good. I'm hoping they hold up better than the zinc/cad plating I did in the past, what a nightmare...
If interested in increasing the fluid volume of your transmission, you can swap the 4x2 pan for the 4x4 pan, which fits exactly the
same with the only difference being MORE VOLUME.
If interested in cooling the transmission, get an additional cooler element down stream of the stock unit. A stock cooler, well-maintained
in mild/cool climates will do well for many vehicles- it is heat that is the E4OD's main enemy
Of course, I knew I had some thread issues in the case. Out came the Heli-coil kit...
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I've gotten pretty good with it, from discovery to tear-down to torqued on, was 20 minutes
Torque your Pan Bolts to 120 IN-lbs.
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BTW, use an INCH-Pound wrench, the Foot-Pound ones are too low on their scale, and that's where all their inaccuracy is, in LOW torques.
Anyways, there's LOTS more stuff going on, I'm trying to filter it down into sections so I can make more sense of what it is I
am trying to do...
.
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That's it for now.
Best regards,
George