1993 F-350 tow rig

[BrandonMag]

You should be able to lay the compressor over to the side, unbolt the condensor, and then lay it down somewhat flat. Then you just lift the engine over the top of it.

Although removing the core support sure seems like a lot of extra work just to keep something simple. Why are you pulling the engine out? I thought you are just wanting to swap to a ZF5.

I want to swap to a ZF AND insure the engine won't crap out on me. Take a look at the coolant:

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Doesn't inspire confidence. Here's the bottom of the bucket after I disposed of the coolant:

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It may be hard to tell, but there's a LOT of metal flakes in there. I'd rather do the hard work now and avoid headaches in the future.

 

[hacked89]

I breathed on the after market radiator that was in my truck and it got a hole and started leaking. I feel for you from your first update earlier today taking the front clip apart and seeing badness on the radiator.

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[BrandonMag]

Thanks, hacked89. The radiator in the '89 F250 I had years ago was pristine. Oh, well. This F350 is an almost 30 year old truck. I expected to run into some unforeseen issues.

 

[BrandonMag]

My goal of completely removing the engine by this time was a little optimistic. But I made decent progress:

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I got the condenser off the core support, the wire bundle properly labeled and unhooked from the core support and most of the wires removed from the engine. There is still a lot to do, but I'm making progress.

I did notice something I thought was odd. This pic shows the passenger side core support frame cushion:

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And this pic shows the driver's side:

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Clearly, they are different. It's hard to tell, but the lower cushion on the passenger side is gone. I went on LMC and looked up the diagram:

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It looks like I'm missing some pieces. They sell a polyurethane cab mount set that looks like it might be the hot ticket. Has anybody used it?

 

[cre1992]

My goal of completely removing the engine by this time was a little optimistic. But I made decent progress:

You must be registered for see images attach

I got the condenser off the core support, the wire bundle properly labeled and unhooked from the core support and most of the wires removed from the engine. There is still a lot to do, but I'm making progress.

I did notice something I thought was odd. This pic shows the passenger side core support frame cushion:

You must be registered for see images attach

And this pic shows the driver's side:

You must be registered for see images attach

Clearly, they are different. It's hard to tell, but the lower cushion on the passenger side is gone. I went on LMC and looked up the diagram:

You must be registered for see images attach

It looks like I'm missing some pieces. They sell a polyurethane cab mount set that looks like it might be the hot ticket. Has anybody used it?

My cab and rad support bushings didn’t look so hot and I had already pulled up everything out of the cab, so I decided I would replace them. I bought the ENERGY SUSPENSION 44123G bushing kit off of rock auto. Comes with the hardware too. I have a brick nose so the part number could be different.

 

[BrandonMag]

I didn't get to work on the F-350 today. Instead, I ran some errands and picked up a new radiator, fan shroud, intake manifold and driver's side kick panel for the cab. There's a fella east of me who is parting out a 1993 (same year) F-350 4X4 crew cab with a ZF. Unfortunately, the tranny has already sold.

Here's a pic of the (bad) radiator that came out of my truck:

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The two nipples circled in red are the ports for the E4OD. No surprise there. What surprised me is the third nipple, which I circled in green. The hose that connects to that nipple is teed into the coolant hose that runs from the heater box on the firewall to the passenger side head. This is the first IDI I've owned with an E4OD. Do all of the OBS trucks with E4ODs have this additional coolant line?

This is the radiator that came off the parts truck:

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I've seen this before. The '89 F-250 I had was a ZF-equipped truck and looked exactly the same. (Since there is no provision to cool the tranny fluid with this radiator I will need to install a tranny cooler somewhere on the core support.)

Also, I came across this while browsing around YouTube:

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It's the first of a 16-part series about tearing down, inspecting and rebuilding an E4OD. I've watched two of the videos so far and it's very informative.

 

[cre1992]

There's a fella east of me who is parting out a 1993 (same year) F-350 4X4 crew cab with a ZF. Unfortunately, the tranny has already sold.

If you still want to convert your truck to a stick.. I would see if he would sell you the steering column, pedal assembly, and ZF harness. It will make an installation down the road much easier if you don't have to source each individual part.

 

[snicklas]

Yes, that 3rd nipple is an E4OD thing. When you put the new radiator in, just replace the hose that has the tee in it with just a straight hose. I did that on my E4OD with no issues. It was supposed to warm up the transmission fluid faster in the cold, but the orifice in the line really restricts flow.

 

[hacked89]

I welded in cab mounts and all hardware and bushings from lmc

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[aggiediesel01]

What is involved with a 10.5 swap into an OBS? Can you swap it in such a way as to keep the OBS 8×6.5 lug pattern?

If you want to keep the 8x6.5 you have to make custom lug studs or drill holes in between the metric ones for the ones you have. Here's one guys experience doing it. Supposedly the studs he ended up using were from Quigley but there are other custom stud mfg out there that can make them.
http://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo.../115781-10-5-superduty-rear-hubs-8-6-5-a.html

I was planning on completely removing the core support to make the removal of the engine as simple as possible. The condenser is bolted to the core support in front of the radiator; on the driver's side a line is connected to the compressor and on the passenger side a line routes up to the evaporator. To my brain it seems like the condenser would be in the way once I get the engine unbolted from the E4OhNo if I leave the components of the AC system in place. Maybe not?

I think you figured this out already but LMC promoted their replacement core support and there's a youTube video showing how they got the condenser through the hole and hung it above the motor during the swap.

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(Since there is no provision to cool the tranny fluid with this radiator I will need to install a tranny cooler somewhere on the core support.)

If you're going to keep the E4OD then get a trans cooler from a 6.0 5R110 and the larger 3/8" lines from the 4r100 with the bypass line. Those are bolt in pieces and they will keep the trans as cool as it can get. The 6.0 cooler bolts in between the condenser and the radiator on the radiator mounting holes. Also the ASTG rebuild manuals are on this site somewhere, a search should bring them or links to them up.

 

[BrandonMag]

If you still want to convert your truck to a stick.. I would see if he would sell you the steering column, pedal assembly, and ZF harness. It will make an installation down the road much easier if you don't have to source each individual part.

He had those parts but wanted $300, which I thought was too steep. Ideally, I'd like to find a complete donor truck with a ZF. Trying to piece together all of the parts from multiple trucks would take too much time. If I can't find a complete truck then I may just rebuild the auto. The 16-part video series really takes away the mystery of how to rebuild an E4OD.

If you want to keep the 8x6.5 you have to make custom lug studs or drill holes in between the metric ones for the ones you have. Here's one guys experience doing it. Supposedly the studs he ended up using were from Quigley but there are other custom stud mfg out there that can make them.
http://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo.../115781-10-5-superduty-rear-hubs-8-6-5-a.html

That is exactly the info I need. Thanks!

I think you figured this out already but LMC promoted their replacement core support and there's a youTube video showing how they got the condenser through the hole and hung it above the motor during the swap.

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I watched that video, but thanks for posting it here. It is definitely worth watching.

If you're going to keep the E4OD then get a trans cooler from a 6.0 5R110 and the larger 3/8" lines from the 4r100 with the bypass line. Those are bolt in pieces and they will keep the trans as cool as it can get. The 6.0 cooler bolts in between the condenser and the radiator on the radiator mounting holes. Also the ASTG rebuild manuals are on this site somewhere, a search should bring them or links to them up.

Thanks for that. I didn't know any of those parts would work on an OBS... I need to spend more time here reading.

 

[93didually]

As far as rear disc brake use the e250, e350 brake parts that are usually pretty cheap at a u pull yard. It is same bolt pattern and almost bolt on other then the flange on the axle. Plus side is it's all Ford parts.

 

[BrandonMag]

I had a lot of stuff to take care of the last week and a half. I finally got this done today. Now I just need to run to the hardware store to get two bolts to mount the engine on the stand!

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It's a good thing I bought this truck, she's in pretty sorry shape. Missing bolts here and there and the coolant that came out of the engine must have been 10 years old. Hopefully the engine doesn't have cavitation, the truck has 300,00 miles and I'm pretty sure this is the first time the engine has been pulled.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You'll be tearing that engine apart before you know it.

 

[BrandonMag]

You'll be tearing that engine apart before you know it.

Funny you would say that; the first step I took yesterday:

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At this point, I'm not in a rush to yard this truck apart and throw it back together; I've got some time off from work. I am glad that's the position I'm in, because if I was up against a schedule or needed this truck for work I would not be happy right now. This is how the timing gear was bolted to the IP:

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And this is what I found when I removed the fuel filter stack:

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Apparently two is the new three!

If you can believe this, take a look at the date code on injector #3:

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So, the IP was replaced at some point, but six of the eight injectors are original to the engine. One was a no-name with zero identification marks and one was a Stanadyne with a date code of 6-94. (I guess there was a problem with the original injector when the truck was just a few months old?)

Continued...