1993 E 350 4x4 BallJoint - need help on parts

gnathv

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Wd40 is good but there are better products for penetrating rusty metal. I like 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid, it just works. I’d get a better penetrant and get a 32 oz machinist hammer and hit the flat face between the studs. Be patient, beat a bit then add penetration oil let it sit and repeat. I would also try a sharp chisel between the two flat faces. If this doesn’t break it loose, add heat.
 

BrianX128

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The axle locking nuts you took off with the special sockets.. if you can get new ones, spin the old ones back on the threads and hit them back and forth on both sides with a BIG hammer. It will shock the rust loose and it will pop that off. I dealt with the same thing, air chisels, heat, pb blaster, nothing worked. Put the axle nuts back on and hit it 5 or 6 times and it popped right off.
 

derjackistweg

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I did this once. Took 2 torches with map gas at the same time to finally break it loose.
Hi,

I have that in mind. Though I do not have one. I think it is acetylen, afaik. I want to try softer first. Hope it doen´t go too bad. I´ll check if I can borrow something like that for the weekend. Could be clever.

I am kind of time- limited: It must be done before 23rd so that I can get it technical inspected by 24th. If later I need to do the complete test again / aka German TÜV, that will cost me 220$ again.
 

derjackistweg

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Wd40 is good but there are better products for penetrating rusty metal. I like 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid, it just works. I’d get a better penetrant and get a 32 oz machinist hammer and hit the flat face between the studs. Be patient, beat a bit then add penetration oil let it sit and repeat. I would also try a sharp chisel between the two flat faces. If this doesn’t break it loose, add heat.

The axle locking nuts you took off with the special sockets.. if you can get new ones, spin the old ones back on the threads and hit them back and forth on both sides with a BIG hammer. It will shock the rust loose and it will pop that off. I dealt with the same thing, air chisels, heat, pb blaster, nothing worked. Put the axle nuts back on and hit it 5 or 6 times and it popped right off.
WD40 is just the place holder. I got a local brand penetration oil/rust remover that I am soaking that thing in.

I hammered a small screw driver in between (I know these are made for that ;-)). Now I got some points the are 2-3 mm deep and long so that the rust remover can get deeper... same inside the thread from the nuts.

THOUGH, the spindle is inserted with that flanch, so there is a lot of surface to get stuck.
 

derjackistweg

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... Put the axle nuts back on and hit it 5 or 6 times and it popped right off.
You mean #5 and #7 - correct?
Impossible to get here.

But I am trying to get a tube, I guess 2" or so, with an inside thread. According to the source above, it will be 5/8" fine thread.
 

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ironworker40

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I want to build that by "myself" - means by a local metal worker. Hope that will go easy, I don´t know. Any non-metric thread can be an issue.

As it looks in your source it is 5/8" fine thread
THX
5/8 is just were the slide hammer attaches. You can make that anything you need it to be. The inside end has to be the correct threads for your spindle. The flat flange is not were mine was stuck. mine had a shoulder that went inside the knuckle. I didn't have that tool at the time. I used every trick I could think of. In the end a long punch from the inside got it moving.
 

derjackistweg

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5/8 is just were the slide hammer attaches. You can make that anything you need it to be. The inside end has to be the correct threads for your spindle. The flat flange is not were mine was stuck. mine had a shoulder that went inside the knuckle. I didn't have that tool at the time. I used every trick I could think of. In the end a long punch from the inside got it moving.
you are correct. I did not calculate 5/8" is a roughly 15mm...#

Maybeeeeee I am lucky and can find some who can do that inside thread...

My spindle s not that shiny LOL


Yet!

You banged that flanch from the inside? I thought so as well. But I am not sure if I can get there...
 

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ironworker40

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Yup that's were it was seized. Use a brass bar if you have one. That's why the heat on the flange does not work it is not in the correct place. I believe i used some small brass wedges under the flange at the same time. Drive the wedges in to put pressure on it then hit from behind. Don't mushroom the backside.
 

ironworker40

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Don't forger to use plenty of never seize when reassembling. If the previous guy did it you would not be fighting it now.
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derjackistweg

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Anti seize is a good idea - I thought so already.

It was STUCK - see below...

3 hours with a 1kg hammer. 3h non stop. :shoot: After that 1/2 for loosening the bj themself. Also very hard in comparison to what I know. Even in the last picture it was not movable by hand.


Pressing the BJ out was absolutely no where near! :eek: I plan to buy a press, 12 ton one.
12 t press
Do I need to get something specific for this job? Afaik I need to press out the lower one first and both upwards out. The ring on the lower one is "out". The upper one has non below.
If I want to press the upper one out I need to go via the lower hole. So I do need to have something like ~ 15" long pressing through the asseble; with the complete thing upside down. Am I correct? I have done that before ...

Anyway I need a pipe over the BJ for pressing in.
 

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