1993 E 350 4x4 BallJoint - need help on parts

[derjackistweg]

Hello,

I expected this to be a little easier - but it is not. At least for me. And I am from Germany, so here´s in general

I own a Quigley 93, which has an earlier Model F 350 axle in it, afaik. The upper ball joint needs to be done, so I will do both of course.

- When I search for ball joints, I find a lot of stuff for newer models after 1999. So there are some questions:
When I go to rockauto there are different ones, like balljoints with threads and w/o threads. Is this important? Does that make a difference? I heard that the threaded ones are for wordn out ones.?

- Afaik I do need to pull the hubs. There is a special tool needed which I do not have. I just read that there are different sizes? Which do I need, can I get them from Rockauto as well?

- I should change the seals that come out as well - I think. Which one do I need?

Perfect would be if someone can configure a shopping list on rockauto, that I can purchase. Shipping is expensive and I only have 3 weeks to get it done, otherwise It will cost a 2. technical inspection which is 210 bugs.

 

[Noiseydiesel]

MEVOTECH TXK80026 {#5C3Z3049AB, BC3Z3049B, MCF2224} (Premium) Terrain Tough; Installation adapter tool included in box Info

Front Upper; 4WD





MEVOTECH TXK8607T {#5C3Z3050AB, BC3Z3050B, MCF2223} (Premium) Terrain Tough; Installation adapter tool included in box Info
Front Lower; 4WD

Takes care of your ball joints from Rockauto. Seals are going to be a bit of research on your part looking for 1993 FORD Dana 60 parts. Don't forget the FORD option when searching.

National SBK-5 Spindle Bearing and Seal Kit came from Amazon.

 

[derjackistweg]

MEVOTECH TXK80026 {#5C3Z3049AB, BC3Z3049B, MCF2224} (Premium) Terrain Tough; Installation adapter tool included in box Info

Front Upper; 4WD





MEVOTECH TXK8607T {#5C3Z3050AB, BC3Z3050B, MCF2223} (Premium) Terrain Tough; Installation adapter tool included in box Info
Front Lower; 4WD

Takes care of your ball joints from Rockauto. Seals are going to be a bit of research on your part looking for 1993 FORD Dana 60 parts. Don't forget the FORD option when searching.

National SBK-5 Spindle Bearing and Seal Kit came from Amazon.

Hi,

thanks. The tool includes is needed to press the balljoint, if I am correct.

What I ment, as well, ist the tool to undo the hub from the axle. like these https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-96-wheel-bearing-lock-nut-socket
Just an example, not sure if this is correct.

Though I think when I just unscrew the Hub Cover with its hex, I should be able to see how many teeths on that tool I need!? If that makes sense...

 

[derjackistweg]

Not sure if needed.

Actually I already failed to unscrew the hex from the hub.
I live in the metric world, but these are no 3 nor 4 mm ones. wth are these

 

[BrianX128]

Hi,

thanks. The tool includes is needed to press the balljoint, if I am correct.

What I ment, as well, ist the tool to undo the hub from the axle. like these https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-96-wheel-bearing-lock-nut-socket
Just an example, not sure if this is correct.

Though I think when I just unscrew the Hub Cover with its hex, I should be able to see how many teeths on that tool I need!? If that makes sense...

I've only ever ran into the six slot hub nut and the first four slot one on the bottom row. They aren't hard to get out, just sit everything down in the order you take it out. I swear the clips and retainers inside every ford axle I take apart are slightly different and it's easy to put things back together in the wrong order. I can't remember but I think you'll have to pull the axle shaft out also before you can press the old ball joint out. It isn't too terrible, but the rust sometimes can keep things together pretty bad in this area, an air chisel is helpful.

 

[derjackistweg]

I've only ever ran into the six slot hub nut and the first four slot one on the bottom row. They aren't hard to get out, just sit everything down in the order you take it out. I swear the clips and retainers inside every ford axle I take apart are slightly different and it's easy to put things back together in the wrong order. I can't remember but I think you'll have to pull the axle shaft out also before you can press the old ball joint out. It isn't too terrible, but the rust sometimes can keep things together pretty bad in this area, an air chisel is helpful.

Hi,

the axle shaft has to come out for sure, from what I have seen on YT. I can deal with rust.

 

[DaveBen]

I use this tool; https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...-fork-opening-ball-joint-separator/555664_0_0
to remove the King Pin joints.

 

[Black dawg]

Make sure you read up on "superduty memory steer" after ball joint replacement, and the process to try to avoid it.....specifically the upper alignment sleeve.

 

[derjackistweg]

Hi,

this is what I ended up with.
Sadly I am kind of clueless on that. I thought, and that was what I was said in a German Ford group, I can pull the axle out when I loosen 4 Bolts on the back.

My axle is an 12/93 as it seams, so quite old. So I need to go via the front? So fist to pull the hub?

Does anyone know which hex I need? Living in metric world, neither 3mm nor 4mm work. I bought 2 sizes in imperial in between: 1 is too small, the other to big.

 

[TNBrett]

It will probably be 9/64” or 5/32”. 9/64” is the standard drive size for a #8-32 socket head cap machine screw(it’s a mouth full but it’s what they are called), and 5/32” would be for #10-32. The #8 and #10 references the diameter of the screw. It’s a size in name only. All of what we call machine screws, sheet metal screws, and wood screws use the same number system. Machine screws range from #0 to #12, with 0 being the smallest and #12 being the largest. So it’s the opposite of our wire size numbering system. The “-32” is simply the the thread pitch expressed as threads per inch. There are really only a hand full of sizes that most people will run into 6-32, 8-32, and 10-32. Once in a while you will find some 4-40, 10-24, or 12-24. Anyway, I rambled on a bit, but feel free use this knowledge to impress all of your friends in your part of the world.

 

[derjackistweg]

THX; from what I found on Hub assemblies on Rockauto it seems to be 9/64". As I was slidly frustrated I filed a 4mm down .... not the best idea but it worked.
9/64 equals 3,57 mm.

 

[derjackistweg]

Here I am now.
BUT I cannot get the spindle (I think that is what the outer part is called) out.

As I assume: I need to pull that thing out, than pull the halfshafts. Correct?

I hammered with a steel one on the 10mm wide flansh... with a rubber mallet on the spindle, but not on the outer part with the threads to not harm those. Does not move a dime.
WD40 of course.

These are two parts, correct?

 

[derjackistweg]

Looks like I need to build a spindle puller before I do something stupid....

Does anyone know the thread size of that spindle? I will try to find an imperial (I guess) nut in that size and will try to weld something together to pull on ...

 

[TNBrett]

Have you tried heat? I know there are other members on here who have fought rusty spindles and won, but I can’t remember who, or what worked for them. You might try searching on here.

 

[Reggie f250]

I did this once. Took 2 torches with map gas at the same time to finally break it loose.