1990 Ford 7.3 idi

Mark Allen

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Hello my name is Mark, I have a 1990 Ford Xlt 4x4 with a 7.3 idi. I bought it a few months back and just now getting around to working on it. The truck sat for 2 years before I got it and and it has not started for me yet so I figured I would start with 8 new glow plugs since someone allready by passed the gpc in a weird way but when I go to hook the by pass wires up to heat the glow plugs all I get is click click click for about 10 seconds then quits but still won't start. A friend of mine said I also needed to check all fuel lines since it's sat for 2 years because it would have possibly dry rotted the fuel lines. And he was certain it has lost it's prime as well. I am new to the Ford diesels and any help with things to check to get this started would be great
 

firehonomichl

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If I were you I would definitely hook the GPC back up having it bypassed you could heat them to long and burn them up really fast. Go to your part store and get a injector return line kit and put that on. That will help a lot. Also I would put some standadyne in the fuel filter that will help line up the injection pump. You could also test the glow plugs take a test light and hook to the positive side on your battery and touch the top of the glow plug if it lights up its good. Doesn’t light up it’s no good. And when you/if you put glow plugs in it make sure you use motorcraft ZD9 glow plugs the cheap auto lights are junk.
 

BeastMaster

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Might wanna use an electric fuel pump, even if only temporarily, to guarantee you fuel delivery to the fuel filter, and purging air out of your fuel system. The electric pump could pump clean diesel from a bucket. Of course, the fuel would continue to be returned to the truck`s fuel tank. Sure takes the load off your starter motor. And you could use the bucket to receive the mechanical pump output so you can verify its delivering fuel under pressure.

At least this lets you rule out your low pressure fuel problems, as this lets you bring up your fuel system and check for glow and purging air without the engine running.

If you have glow plugs, compression, and fuel, it's inevitable you will get combustion. It is now up to timing and things like injector spray patterns to optimize getting the engine running properly.

You are gonna get your share of little snits, leaks, tweaks, and other whatnots, then you will have one helluva nice truck, and the knowledge of what makes it run.

Then you will sleep good.

These are fine machines...in my mind, the best ever made. They are not a beauty queen, it doesn't blow everyone else off the road, but it will take you and your stuff where you want to go. I find immense beauty in it's simplicity and robust design.
 

DaveBen

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Welcome to Oil Burners Mark! As you just saw, there are a great bunch of guys here that will give you GOOD advice!
 

Randy Bush

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You also want to make sure your batteries are good and fully charged. These engine have to spin over good in order to start. Welcome to Oil Burners.
 

Mark Allen

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Hello my name is Mark, I have a 1990 Ford Xlt 4x4 with a 7.3 idi. I bought it a few months back and just now getting around to working on it. The truck sat for 2 years before I got it and and it has not started for me yet so I figured I would start with 8 new glow plugs since someone allready by passed the gpc in a weird way but when I go to hook the by pass wires up to heat the glow plugs all I get is click click click for about 10 seconds then quits but still won't start. A friend of mine said I also needed to check all fuel lines since it's sat for 2 years because it would have possibly dry rotted the fuel lines. And he was certain it has lost it's prime as well. I am new to the Ford diesels and any help with things to check to get this started would be great
 

Mark Allen

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If I were you I would definitely hook the GPC back up having it bypassed you could heat them to long and burn them up really fast. Go to your part store and get a injector return line kit and put that on. That will help a lot. Also I would put some standadyne in the fuel filter that will help line up the injection pump. You could also test the glow plugs take a test light and hook to the positive side on your battery and touch the top of the glow plug if it lights up its good. Doesn’t light up it’s no good. And when you/if you put glow plugs in it make sure you use motorcraft ZD9 glow plugs the cheap auto lights are junk.
 

Mark Allen

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Thank all of you for the welcome in and your input. I will keep y'all updated on what I am sure will be success. And thank all of for the suggestion's.
 

Mark Allen

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Welcome to Oil Burners Mark! As you just saw, there are a great bunch of guys here that will give you GOOD advice!
There really is a good group of people in here and think you all. Hopefully y'all will just be patient with me learning how to navigate what and where but I have allready learns alot.
 

Mark Allen

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You also want to make sure your batteries are good and fully charged. These engine have to spin over good in order to start. Welcome to Oil Burners.
That was the first thing I after I found oil burners and this site 6.9 and 7.3 Ford diesels and thank you. I have also learned new interstate batteries can burn up quick not knowing what to check and prime before just cold starting after sitting for 2 years.
 

RealPower

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Sorry to side track here but I need a wiring diagram for a 91 F350 7.3 so I can troubleshoot this short to ground fault in the DC charging system, B+ yellow wire 12vdc ignition switch operated...


METHOD OF VERIFYING ' GOOD ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GROUND ' #87-8-139 - (04/07/1987)

VEHICLES AFFECTED: ALL MODELS

When diagnosing electronic systems for incorrect operation, it is often necessary to verify that ground circuits are good. This article is intended to clarify what is meant by the term "good ground" and the preferred tools and methods for verifying it.


A "good ground" is a ground circuit that has a resistance of zero OHMS.


Ground circuit resistance can be measured in OHMS using a digital volt OHM meter (DVOM). When using a DVOM, it must be set on the 200 OHM scale to obtain an accurate measure of the circuit resistance. Many meters have both a 200 OHM scale and a 200 K scale. The 200 K scale will not measure zero OHMS accurately. If you are not sure how the meter is to be set for the 200 OHM scale, refer to the meter operating instructions for proper settings. If the meter is an autoranging or self-scaling meter, read the meter carefully to be sure which scale it is setting itself to.


Before measuring resistance in any circuit, the resistance of the meter should be measured by touching the leads together. A meter with a good battery and leads in good condition will read less than .2 OHMS usually zero. If the leads measure anything more, an accurate measure of the circuit resistance may not be possible.


Always remember - resistance cannot be measured accurately on a "live" circuit, All current flow through a circuit must be stopped by disconnecting its power source before measuring resistance.


Ground circuit resistance can also be checked by measuring the voltage drop across the circuit with a DVOM set on, the 2 volt scale. The voltage drop will be zero across a "good ground" circuit.


Remember, fully understand a meter's functions before using it!



To add to this, a good ground for car audio applications will have a return resistance reading of 1/2 ohm or less. I have yet to have a return reading of 0 ohms. If a ground return reading cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm by means of the "BIG 3", then it is adviseable to ground direct to the battery. Electricity is an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. Pay as much attention to the ground wire as you do the power wire.

The BIG 3 is a great place to start for a good ground, however it is the assumed proper method of grounding. What we are talking about here is the older and wiser 4th brother to the BIG 3 (the BIG 4).

So a proper ground wire will be as follows.

- clean of residue and paint.

- secure.

- have a resistance return of 1/2 ohm or less.

- be of adequate guage to carry the return as compared to the power wire.

To simplify the measuring of the return, use your meter as described. Disconnect the - battery terminal and disconnect the ground wire from you amp. If your dmm probes are not long enough, you will need to create a jumper extension out of some primary wire or whatever wire you have handy. Measure this wire for any resistance reading and subtract it from the total.

Many installers are not aware of this nor practice this method. It takes time and time = $ so don't get all pissy if you had a professional install done and this was not checked. A poor ground connection or high resistance reading may seem trivial under no load, but once you are pounding your nice new amp and it is drawing large amounts of current, this little reading has become a monster reading that has caused many an amp to fail for no apparent reason. It may be noticeable as a extremely hot running amplifier in a short time period, poor output levels or diminishing levels and of course a blown power supply or output section in the amplifier.

While the original article was written for the years gone by, it still is applicable to the newer generation of vehicles. A good ground is not about the amount or size of the metal in the return to the battery but about the resistance through it. Todays vehicles are a combination of metals, spot welds, glued together unibody panels and isolated chassis components. The return through these components is where the resistance reading comes into question and this is what we need people to understand, why the BIG 4 needs to be done if the BIG 3 does not solve the problem.


Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Quoted from https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=49445
 
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