12v glow plugs

Black dawg

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they say 10.5v on the side. they heat up fast like a 6v plug. they are the correct plugs for the 87-94 controller.
 

Black dawg

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so Ive had these bosch 80034s in for a few weeks now. I wouldnt recommend them to anyone not willing to wait a minute for the first cold start. takes a full minute at 25 degrees for a clean start. at 60 degrees takes about 10-15 secs. . Comparing these plugs to the zd9 they dont look like they get as the zd9 ever, but no burnouts so far and Ive been abuseing the crap out of them.
 

timothyr1014

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Black...funny you dug this one back up because I was about to revive it myself..

I have had similar results.....I have had them down to 38 degrees and they need about a 40 second cycle...I was able to get away with 25~30 seconds with some afterglow....at between 45~50 it starts fine in 15 seconds, but based on the testing we have done, and my normal travels they are staying in....I like the fact that they will tolarate total and complete abuse with no ill effect....1 min is a small price to pay when you consider every time I have had to do a change out the next thing to go is a fuel return o-ring :)
 

Black dawg

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Ive found that it starts good at 25degrees with 30 seconds of button if i dont let off of the button till it starts and clears up. so usually about 35-40 seconds total on time. Ive never liked glow plugs being on with the motor running so I just wait 60 seconds, let of the plugs, and start. now I would like a simple way to know if a plugs burnt out Im thinking some sort of volt gauge. I havent tried with these plugs, but other sets Ive tried put out about .9 to 1 volt with the motor running.
 

timothyr1014

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sounds like our results are about the same (big surprise)...I would be interested in a way to watch for a burnt out one as well...one thing I suspect but have no scientific confirmation on is that the surge to the batteries is considerably less. with the old plugs cycling with the headlights on would produce a much more noticable drop in light output...just thinking out loud
 

IH_444

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When one burns out, your glow time is shortened.
Unless you are talking about manually controlled glows. Then it should be noticeable that it doesn't fire on all 8 for the first few seconds of running.
 

Andylad13

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Black dawg, I ran the part number for the bosch's your running and they came up with a spade connector. Perhaps i've overlooked the answer to my question, but did you change the plug connectors from your '89 to accept spades?
 

david_lee

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I still like the 1110's I think. How are the 1112's a fast start if they are 10.5v? Seems like they wouldn't heat any faster than the 1110?:dunno

I agree about using a 6v plug on a 12v system.
I want to run a manual switch and I like the idea of the plugs not burning up if my brother has to use my truck.
And I won't mind the extra wait for the plugs to heat.

to answer your question, the higher wattage and slight increase in voltage of the 1112's will generate more heat than the 1110's in the same amount of time.
 

Andylad13

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Also, i'm still running my controller to them but have the push button for emergencies only. So will the controller actually let them glow for a full minute, or is that something you need to do with the push button?
 

Fishin76

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The controller will not allow them to run for a minute, you will have to convert to a manual push button or switch ( IMO, a switch with a led to tell you that it is in the on position would be ideal.)
 

timothyr1014

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my switch is wired to the factory relay on the fender with the stock light still attached ...when I push the button the glow plug light come on on the dash so I know the relay has closed
 

tjb

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my switch is wired to the factory relay on the fender with the stock light still attached ...when I push the button the glow plug light come on on the dash so I know the relay has closed

Do you mind telling me how you wired in your switch, I just pulled burnt GPs out due to controller sticking on and will be putting in new GPs friday, but want to bypass that controller.
 

Fishin76

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The purple wire on the GP relay.... run it to a switch or push button in the cab, the other side of the switch or push button goes to a ignition switched battery positive wire. (radio power comes to mind!) If you want, you can find the purple wire on the old GP controller on the head and extend it into the cab to connect to the switch or push button. disconnect the rest of the wires from the old controller. I would not remove the old controller unless your willing to take a risk of breaking it off in the head.

Move the WTS light wire over to where the orange wires go on the relay,
 
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