10.25 Sterling Install Observations, Questions and the Like

[wildman7798]

So I started installing the new to me 1994 3.55 10.25 Trac Loc Sterling Diff into my 86 2wd F250. Apparently it is no myth that these trucks eat brake return springs, pulled off drums on my old diff. still in truck and both upper and lower return springs on DS were broken clean in half. I had no clue but clearly that brake had been dragging. So it is something that needs to be watched. I have no idea if they were original or not, pretty colorful and clean but the shoes looked OEM and about 20% left.

My truck has the rear loaded weight, brake actuating assist system on it, didn't even know until I was under there. Seems like I read here that the system should be left alone and use it if it all looks to be in decent shape. I would prefer to remove it but I can go either way with it. Looking for some input from others that have had or used this system. Looks like I can easily transfer it all to the new diff.

My new diff. came with newer springs which I will be using and a helper or overload spring which I would like to use but I don't have the frame brackets for them. I see they are available aftermarket but will be well over $100 for the (4). Was hoping someone on here might have an extra set of brackets they would part with.

Was thinking of upgrading the rear swaybar links and blocks to poly while I was in there. I thought I might do the spring eye bushings but have never had those apart before. I know back in the day they were a som ***** to get out, seems like burning them out was the easiest way. Are these trucks easier to change out, I would guess so as I see spring eye bushings for sale all over the place, rubber and poly. Not looking for a huge project, if they come right out I am all over it.

Hope to be scratching two before the weeks end unless the Gremlins or Murphy rears his ugly head.

 

[Oog]

Your 86 should have a big cap 1330 ujoint. The 94 should have a long spline 1350 joint. Afaik no conversion ujoints. Need a 1330/1350 ujoint to make it work. Pinion yokes will not swap due to spline depth

 

[laserjock]

Well, I can tell you that the bushing probably won't come out easy depending on the condition. I am doing this right now on my build. I ended up cutting the bolts off with a cuttoff wheel. To reach it with a 4" grinder heat the bolt as hot as you can and while you are at it give it a couple licks with a big hammer (you might get lucky) and twist the bolt in the bushing tearing the inner sleeve from the rubber bushing. Then cut as much as you can reach with a fresh wheel and then rotate the bolt and do it again. About 3 times and it should be cut in two. Then the center section pushed out with a 2 jaw puller. I tried my air chisel to remove the rubber and outer ring but that has been a tough battle. I will be burning the rubber out then removing the outer sleeves on the rest of the ones I do. Mine may be the extreme case as they seem to be original 91's. It will be put back together with urethane bushings and lots of antisieze.

All I can say is good luck and stick with it. It's probably a once in the life of the vehicle job.


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[typ4]

What part of the PNW are you in wildman? kid in salem has a truck with the brackets on it I think. And they are still a sumbitch to get out.

 

[bookite03]

Rear spring brackets? I have the leaf brackets on my 88' parts truck still. I can pull them if you need them. You can get them when you get this C6 I have :-D

 

[wildman7798]

What part of the PNW are you in wildman? kid in salem has a truck with the brackets on it I think. And they are still a sumbitch to get out.

I am N. of Bellingham right near the border. I figured I would put the word out for some used ones but reality will probably have me buying new. Taking rivets out is not a light weight task.

 

[wildman7798]

Rear spring brackets? I have the leaf brackets on my 88' parts truck still. I can pull them if you need them. You can get them when you get this C6 I have :-D

Just looking for the 4 helper / overload spring tabs. L shaped brackets, 4 holes each with a rubber cushion on the bottom, they attach to the outer frame rails above the rear leaf springs.

 

[wildman7798]

Well, I can tell you that the bushing probably won't come out easy depending on the condition. I am doing this right now on my build. I ended up cutting the bolts off with a cuttoff wheel. To reach it with a 4" grinder heat the bolt as hot as you can and while you are at it give it a couple licks with a big hammer (you might get lucky) and twist the bolt in the bushing tearing the inner sleeve from the rubber bushing. Then cut as much as you can reach with a fresh wheel and then rotate the bolt and do it again. About 3 times and it should be cut in two. Then the center section pushed out with a 2 jaw puller. I tried my air chisel to remove the rubber and outer ring but that has been a tough battle. I will be burning the rubber out then removing the outer sleeves on the rest of the ones I do. Mine may be the extreme case as they seem to be original 91's. It will be put back together with urethane bushings and lots of antisieze.

All I can say is good luck and stick with it. It's probably a once in the life of the vehicle job.


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I had to re-read your reply and was thinking..... I made a puller to install the rear control arm bushings in my Mustang GT. Simple deal, used a couple of 1/4" thick steel round washer, all thread, couple nuts and a piece of black pipe. Wonder if you couldn't do the same thing on the spring eyes. Soak the crap out of rubber with PB or Kroil or something slick, washer on one side that just fits inside the spring eye, all thread thru the middle, find a piece of pipe that will match the wall of the spring diameter about 4 or 5 inches long, double nut the smaller washer end on the all thread and at the pipe end with a larger washer use single nut on all thread and use the air gun to draw that sucker out. Not sure my explanation is worth a damn... I can see it but can't get into small words. I think you get the idea, simple concept. Might be more trouble to round up all the pieces but I know I changed the rubber ones out how you are doing it and it's not fun. I had to chuckle when you mentioned the air chisel... something about dense commercial grade rubber and an air chisel that just don't mix well. How do we say... Desperate times.

 

[laserjock]

Yeah.. The rubber was the killer. I was trying to just split the steel outter ring but the rubber was complicating matters. I'm trying a more finesse approach than usual because I'm trying to not put a lot of heat on the springs themselves. I think I'll abandon than now.

I think I get what you are saying. I thought for a little bit about a puller like that. I also considered ways of using the 10 ton press I have but I think at the end of the day, this really may be a brute force effort. Its just about figuring out how to correctly apply the force. I keep telling people I think I'd rather take an a$$ whoopin than to do this job. I am however, getting better at it. If I had to do a lot of these, I would definitly put together some type of press arrangement.

 

[bookite03]

Just looking for the 4 helper / overload spring tabs. L shaped brackets, 4 holes each with a rubber cushion on the bottom, they attach to the outer frame rails above the rear leaf springs.

I'm getting ready to start cutting things up this week hopefully, I'll knock them off for you if you want them. Just pay for the shipping, or like I mentioned....make a trip out OD it and get the C6 too.