Coolant boiling

Laine D

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Go get a OEM radiator cap and an OEM thermostat. Change them one at a time (I'd start with the radiator cap) and see if either fixes your issue.

If your cap is weak, it will cause the symptom you are describing. CDX825 explained it very clearly: aftermarket thermostats don't work well in IDIs.

Good luck, and stay away from Washington state: it's getting just like California up here, without the benefit of nice weather :(
I appreciate it man, only heading there for a wedding so it won’t be too long LOL
 

Laine D

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I agree with this. You don't have coolant loss, and it only "boils" coolant once in a while. I don't see how compression wouldn't leak into the cooling system all of the time. Even a slow leak would have more than the 13 PSI that you radiator cap is rated at. I also don't see where a compression leak wouldn't leak on a cold start up. Maybe your first move should be to get a test kit that lets you test the coolant for combustion gasses. That will tell you for sure if it's a head gasket. Test first before replacing parts to see if the new part helps. This can save you A LOT of money. Then, if replacing parts to see if it helps, start with the cheapest first: thermostat. Either way, just make sure that you end up with a Motorcraft thermostat and 50/50 antifreeze.
I have a motorcraft thermostat inbound as we speak. The coolant is easy, I’ll do that tomorrow. The radiator came with a 16lb cap and I took that off because my old one was 13 and I thought that was the factory setting.

something possibly worth noting, the first time The coolant boiling happened was in January, we went on about a 2 hour trip into the mountains and it was all freeway. I hadn’t driven it that long on the freeway since I put the new coolant and radiator in.
 

Laine D

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I appreciate the help guys, I felt like a real goon when I realized that the coolant wasn’t pre diluted. That is what started all of this.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I appreciate the help guys, I felt like a real goon when I realized that the coolant wasn’t pre diluted. That is what started all of this.
Forgetting about the time of year for a bit, I agree with what CDX825 said about straight (or pretty close to it in your case) antifreeze not being as efficient at heat transfer. I believe that I've heard this before. There's a reason why it needs to be diluted before using. Until your trip into the mountains, you hadn't driven the truck on the freeway very much (far/long). Your engine is working harder at freeway speeds than it does at slower speeds, around town and short trips on the freeway. I proved this to be true last January when the thermostat in my engine stuck open on my way to San Antonio. My heater worked just fine while on the highway, with temps in the 30's, but it didn't work very well while driving through towns. When your engine is working harder, for longer periods of time, it makes more heat than when it's not working as hard. When the engine makes more heat, the coolant has to carry more heat to the radiator, where it gets transferred to the air, which cools it off. As long as your thermostat is working properly, the outside air temperature doesn't matter as much since the engine's still making the same amount of heat under the same driving conditions. When the coolant doesn't pick up (transfer) as much heat from the heads and cylinders, it can't transfer as much to the outside air through the radiator. Since the heat doesn't get transferred to the coolant as well, more heat stays in your engine's internal parts. Anytime that you shut off your engine, if you watch a mechanical temperature gauge, the needle will rise. This is because the heat is still being transferred from the hot metal parts of the engine to the coolant, but it isn't being transferred to the air through the radiator so it takes longer for the heat to be transferred to the air which is the only thing that actually cools off the engine. This, in turn means that more heat stays in your cooling system for longer periods of time, which raises coolant pressure above what it normally sees while the engine is running. In your case, I believe that what is happening is that there is more than 13 PSI in your cooling system for a while after engine shut off since the heat isn't being transferred to the coolant as quickly. This causes the coolant to be pushed into the overflow tank ("boiling") to relieve the excess pressure. When the coolant cools down enough, it contracts back to it's normal volume and draws the "boiled" coolant back into the cooling system from the overflow. That is why your engine temps don't get over 200* and also why you aren't seeing any coolant loss due to compression gasses getting into your cooling system. No matter how small a head gasket leak is, it won't be a "every once in a while" thing and it will eventually cause a loss in coolant unless the engine is only run for a very short time. PLEASE either replace the thermostat and get the correct coolant dilution in your engine or do some testing like I suggested before you convince yourself that you have a leaking head gasket. Remember that while others have had similar situations as you, no has had your EXACT situation. Other threads can help to point you in the right direction, but they may give you the most direct path to get there.
 

Laine D

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Forgetting about the time of year for a bit, I agree with what CDX825 said about straight (or pretty close to it in your case) antifreeze not being as efficient at heat transfer. I believe that I've heard this before. There's a reason why it needs to be diluted before using. Until your trip into the mountains, you hadn't driven the truck on the freeway very much (far/long). Your engine is working harder at freeway speeds than it does at slower speeds, around town and short trips on the freeway. I proved this to be true last January when the thermostat in my engine stuck open on my way to San Antonio. My heater worked just fine while on the highway, with temps in the 30's, but it didn't work very well while driving through towns. When your engine is working harder, for longer periods of time, it makes more heat than when it's not working as hard. When the engine makes more heat, the coolant has to carry more heat to the radiator, where it gets transferred to the air, which cools it off. As long as your thermostat is working properly, the outside air temperature doesn't matter as much since the engine's still making the same amount of heat under the same driving conditions. When the coolant doesn't pick up (transfer) as much heat from the heads and cylinders, it can't transfer as much to the outside air through the radiator. Since the heat doesn't get transferred to the coolant as well, more heat stays in your engine's internal parts. Anytime that you shut off your engine, if you watch a mechanical temperature gauge, the needle will rise. This is because the heat is still being transferred from the hot metal parts of the engine to the coolant, but it isn't being transferred to the air through the radiator so it takes longer for the heat to be transferred to the air which is the only thing that actually cools off the engine. This, in turn means that more heat stays in your cooling system for longer periods of time, which raises coolant pressure above what it normally sees while the engine is running. In your case, I believe that what is happening is that there is more than 13 PSI in your cooling system for a while after engine shut off since the heat isn't being transferred to the coolant as quickly. This causes the coolant to be pushed into the overflow tank ("boiling") to relieve the excess pressure. When the coolant cools down enough, it contracts back to it's normal volume and draws the "boiled" coolant back into the cooling system from the overflow. That is why your engine temps don't get over 200* and also why you aren't seeing any coolant loss due to compression gasses getting into your cooling system. No matter how small a head gasket leak is, it won't be a "every once in a while" thing and it will eventually cause a loss in coolant unless the engine is only run for a very short time. PLEASE either replace the thermostat and get the correct coolant dilution in your engine or do some testing like I suggested before you convince yourself that you have a leaking head gasket. Remember that while others have had similar situations as you, no has had your EXACT situation. Other threads can help to point you in the right direction, but they may give you the most direct path to get there.
I really really appreciate this
 

RSchanz

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For what it’s worth, when I replaced my oem rad with a champion I kept using my rad cap from before (granted it was duralast not oem) and I found using the champion cap was actually better. Could have been a coincidence but I was having excess pressure build up that wasn’t being relieved.
 

Laine D

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Thank you. Sometimes it's hard to put all of this into words like that. There's actually a lot of thinking involved with what I wrote. I was hoping that it was understandable. I don't always succeed with the understandable part, but I do try.
No man it really was easy to understand. I appreciate it a lot lol. I hope I never come off like I don’t appreciate all of you guys and your advise because without this forum my truck wouldn’t even be where it is right now. So much knowledge has been absorbed in the last couple years.
 

IDIBRONCO

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No man it really was easy to understand.
Well good. I try to make this stuff as basic as I can. Not to insult anyone, but there's honestly some people who don't have much knowledge about at all about anything mechanical. It's not easy to make an explanation like that one and put it in the right words. I never know for sure how it sounds. That's not an easy topic to really understand since there's so many different factors involved. It just seems easy on the surface.
 

Laine D

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Well good. I try to make this stuff as basic as I can. Not to insult anyone, but there's honestly some people who don't have much knowledge about at all about anything mechanical. It's not easy to make an explanation like that one and put it in the right words. I never know for sure how it sounds. That's not an easy topic to really understand since there's so many different factors involved. It just seems easy on the surface.
I learn something new every day.
 

CDX825

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Ive noticed the champion and other aftermarket radiators come with 16lb caps. That's too much pressure for these trucks. Factory is 13lb but I actually run a 7 on my truck. Lot less chances of leaks that way and still enough boil over protection for normal conditions.
 

franklin2

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Ive noticed the champion and other aftermarket radiators come with 16lb caps. That's too much pressure for these trucks. Factory is 13lb but I actually run a 7 on my truck. Lot less chances of leaks that way and still enough boil over protection for normal conditions.

I ran a 7 lb on my old radiator I used to have trying to keep it going. But you do have to leave a lot of room in the overflow bottle if you run a 7lb cap.
 

Laine D

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A little update. I have yet to drain the coolant. That is tomorrow’s plan. All day today it never boiled or bubbled, I did a lot of driving and towing fairly heavy.
Tonight we had somewhat of a family emergency yada yada yada, I was the only one home and had to drive 40 miles to check on my great uncle because he wasn’t answering anybody. I averaged about 90 mph. He’s fine. When I got home, it was doing it. Makes sense. I’m hoping that changing the coolant makes a difference. It’s kinda confusing for me
 

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