Someone whats this for

Diesel8873ne · Jun 22, 2019

The bigger whole behind grommet hole the one i didnt punch in there. What is it. Also should i put more holes in the sheet metal?

Got the turbo out cause i had a oil leaj i couldnt find. Grommet waa pushed into the whole. I figure that was my leak

jeepj667 · Jun 22, 2019

Probably the drain hole for the valley pan.

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79jasper · Jun 22, 2019

"a picture is worth a thousand words."

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Diesel8873ne · Jun 22, 2019

Sorry about that i could have sworn i added the picture before posting

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snicklas · Jun 22, 2019

OH NO!!!!! You have created a lot more work for yourself. The only place you should have punched holes is down inside the large hole (inside the silver circle) Those other holes around the big hole are now a direct path from the outside into the lifter/pushrod valley. At this point, unless someone else has an idea, I think you will need to remove the intake and replace the valley pan.

79jasper · Jun 22, 2019

I guess could clean it real well and seal it up with some jb weld. Maybe some rivets coated in rtv.
Still would plan a replacement.

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chillman88 · Jun 22, 2019

79jasper said:
I guess could clean it real well and seal it up with some jb weld. Maybe some rivets coated in rtv.
Still would plan a replacement.

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That's what I was thinking. It's not a "better idea" but it's an alternative....

Diesel8873ne · Jun 22, 2019

Well **** me. What are the wholes going to cause to go wrong just out of curiosity.

And where can i get a new valley pan, and how hard is it to remove the intake?

Diesel8873ne · Jun 22, 2019

Does the slightly larger whole that i punched wholes around drain to a diffent spot not the lifter valley?

IDIBRONCO · Jun 22, 2019

Diesel8873ne said:
Does the slightly larger whole that i punched wholes around drain to a diffent spot not the lifter valley?

The pre-made hole in the valley pan does indeed drain into the lifter valley. The problem is that now you've made holes that aren't sealed so anything (water, dirt, leaking fuel,etc.) can now also drain down into your lifter valley.

Diesel8873ne said:
and how hard is it to remove the intake?

You'll have to remove the throttle cable bracket on the front of the intake, the injector pump, and anything else that's attached to the intake bolts. how hard is it to do? Not nearly as hard as it is to replace the ruined engine that will follow shortly if you don't replace the valley pan.

79jasper · Jun 22, 2019

The slightly larger hole to the back is the valley drain. Drain behind the flywheel. That is actually a bolt that holds the rear of the valley pan down as well.

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Diesel8873ne · Jun 22, 2019

Well im gonna sleep on it but right now im thinking of using some high temp silicone plugs for painting ill get a set foes frok 1/16 to 3/4. And for good measure ill slather some rtv around the outside for extra sealing.

I will still plan to eventually replace the valley pan.

Thank you eveyone for the help so far, im tryin to look at it on the positive side of things atleast i posted that picture otherwise i would have had no idea and possibly damaged my engine.

saburai · Jun 22, 2019

That sucks. If you're not going to pull the intake, imho, the rivets and RTV is the best suboptimal solution...

Diesel8873ne · Jun 23, 2019

https://hightempmasking.com/collect...licone-rubber-tapered-plug-kit-powder-coating

Theese are the plugs i was talking about they are high temp up to 600 degrees and come in sizes all the way down to 1/16. Run some rtv around them.

I was thinking about those platic rivets that are used for interior panels buy i was worried they would melt.

I guess im lucky nothing bad happened do far i probably drove about 3k -3500 miles since those holes were made. And man ae have had some serious rain ,glad no water has gone in there (that i know of).

saburai · Jun 23, 2019

If it were me, at the very least alloy rivets and RTV. Go buy a rivet gun if you have to.

Someone whats this for

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